ramonortiz55 4runner build: La Venenosa - For Sale!

@UssMoGn have you looked into whitson metal works roof rack? They bolt on to the roof rack main rails, not cross members. Looks very slick. Ordered one two weeks ago.

 

Nice, yeah the I sometimes I wish i had a wire or air drivin locker. E locker is umm picky sometimes. FYI your Gray wire mod is accualy Blue/Red Wire mod. I dont think youll ever run into this issue but casue you wont be using the Elocker, but good knowlage to know. About 90% of the wire of a 1st Gen Tacoma are the same. Sooo if you ever got a 4runner question check out the 1st gen Tacoma pages you probably fine your answer. Accualy both 3rd Gen 4Runners and 1st Gen Tacomas are about 90% the same.

 

ill check them out, Ill likely build one of my own. that bolts to the factory bolt holes. Only want to build my own casue most the ones ive seen I dont like.

 

Umm Wow... That rack is pretty damn close to what I was going to build.... Now I need to decide the is it worth the $790 out of stock version or My cheaper + my labor version...lol

 

I actually caught onto that a few weeks ago. Haha, thats how I knew I could use that switch panel on my 4runner. It is made for the first gen taco.

Yeah i was real picky with my roof racks also. Until i saw this guy's website. You can probably google some images and see what pops up. Ill post up when I get mine in the mail.

 

LOL yes, the guy is really cool to work with. If you have an LED bar or hella lights, hell mount them for free if you ship it to him.

Yeah, its a pretty penny. but it was exactly what i wanted.

 

Its going to look badass, Like the Lo-pro of the rack. By far one of the best racks ive seen, id recommend it to anyone that needs one.

Ill probably end up making my own, i have a few other ideas id like to add to mine, I want to add a flip/pull out ladder to the rear to meet up with my custom bumper. but It will look similar.

 

Nice the pictures show it can handle atleast a 2 person roof top tent. That be a huge selling point for me.

 

Just ordered a tepui also

Ill post some pics when I get it set up.

 

Nice ill be waiting.....

 

and this came in today

 

Where you gonna mount that twin OBA unit??

 

I havent looked into it yet.

I need to see how big it is and what not.

Varios places to consider:

1. under the hood on the passenger side there's a big space on top of the wheel well.
2. I would like to remove the cubby box in the back cargo area and place it in there. When i know ill use it, have the door of the cubby box opened to let it ventilate.
3. Hide it behind the inner paneling on the back cargo driver's side. I've seen a write up on yotatech where some dude put it back in there and was able to put the paneling back. Like the idea it remains hidden. I am worried about the heat during operation. Especially in Texas.

You have a small compressor by the battery, right?

 

Sho'do

I debated putting it inside but It works well where it is. That twin OBA is pretty big. I have that High Output one. The

$318 CKMA12 On-Board Air Compressor High Performance 12 Volt for Air Locker Differentials and Tire Inflation

CKMA12 I believe

 

Yeah, the noise of having it inside is another thing. But i figure youre out wheeling have a good time, windows rolled down, scraping rocks, etc. the noise inside the cab is gonna be the least of my worries. besides, whats better to hear your locker get activated? #beastmode

 

lol I think I may have a leak in mine but it's done it since I installed it.. If I have my front locker engaged my compressor will grunt/burp every 30 seconds or so..

 

something i was thinking the other day.

compressed air = condensation.

do you think we need to add one of those inline condensation/water filters to the air line? I dont think water in the locker would be a good idea..

 

Hosting a group buy for UCAs on our 4runners for anyone following my build that may be interested.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/all-pro-uca-group-buy-4runners-only.376663/

 

So today I decided I needed to get rid of that annoying door chime!

This is my write up, applies to 3rd generation 4runners.

First, remember to disconnect the negative side of the battery. We will be dealing with the instrument cluster here.

Second, remove the bottom kick panel under the steering wheel.



Carefully unplug all the switches that are attached to that kick panel. In my case it was the following three plugs:





Next, carefully lay the kick panel on the driver side floor. I didn't remove the hood lever nor the gas door lever.



Then I removed the trim around the key tumbler. Gave it a nice tug.



This starts to reveal the screws that hold the trim around the instrument panel, two at the bottom, on the right side of the steering wheel.



Two on top above the instrument panel:



And one on the left side of the steering wheel, sorry for the bad picture, but its hidden in there.



The trim is removed, along with any switches:



Then the instrument panel is revealed. This is being held with four screws.



Now the instrument panel can be pulled away:



Unplug very carefully!



Take it to a nice comfortable location to lay it down.



Remove the white backing and voila! Here is the bell chime!



Carefully rip that bastard off. I twisted it.. slowly and carefully.



This takes care of it!

I installed everything back in, and NO MORE DOOR CHIME!

 

The 4runner limited has a power antenna. This is not a good idea for offroading because power antennas are very flimsy. So what I decided to do is install a regular whip antenna from the 4runner base model of the same year.

I called camelback Toyota and they shipped me regular antenna assembly without the whip. I already have a Toyota whip antenna here at the house.



Part number:



Antenna assembly:



Next thing to do is find a way to access the existing power antenna assembly. I do this by removing bolts and clips that hold down the plastic splash guard in the fender well, the amount of bolts and clips removed depends on how comfortable you want to get to fold back the splash guard and fit your hands and tools:





Again, ^^^ the amount of clips and screws removed will be determined by the user. I removed about four bolts and four clips.

Clips:



Pulling the splash guard back:



Once I take a peek back there, well see the power antenna assembly being held by ONE bolt, remove it:



Next, the silver crown nut must be removed:



This can be done one of two ways.

Break it out or turn on the 4runner so the power antenna can rise up. Then have a helper hold the antenna firmly, turn off the 4runner and prevent the antenna from coiling back in. This removes the antenna from the power antenna assembly. Since my power antenna had started failing, I went with the option of breaking it out.

Once the previous step has been taken care of, look in the engine bay. Passenger side to the corner:



That there is the retainer clip to the harness of the power antenna. Push it out or break it out.

This allows complete removal of the assembly.



We are not done yet. Now we need to trace back the antenna cable to the back of the radio:

Pop open the glove compartment and remove it:



This is done by squeezing the ends.





Remove three bolts that are holding the upper trim of the glove compartment (only two are shown):





If we take a peek towards the back right, well see the antenna cable. it has gray tape on it:



Now to remove the radio, the center console and radio trim need to removed. The center console needs to be pulled out firmly:



shifter trim:



Radio trim:



Carefully unplug power outlet, hazard light switch, clock, etc.





This allows radio to be removed:



Remove the four radio bracket bolts:



Two antenna cables are behind the radio. The smaller one is for the rear antenna, which I ignored. The thicker one is the one we are replacing:



This is very important! Tie a string at the end of the antenna cable, so when you pull it out at the fender outside, you can tie the string to the new antenna and easily guide and pull it behind the dash towards the back of the radio! Picture of new antenna plug:



Install the new antenna assembly, attach the bolt and run the antenna cable by carefully pulling the string to guide it to the back of the radio and plug in!



Put everything together and screw in the new whip antenna and boom! no more worrying about breaking the power antenna mast!