6MT throwout bearing and clutch system shenanigans

Got the new setup all installed with new clutch and flywheel. Still slightly unsure about my pedal stop position... Set it up per the tilton video instructions. Find the point of release, then give an additional 1/4" of travel measured at the end of the pedal by adjusting the stop. Maybe it's just weirding me out since it feels so different than my old clutch which didn't start to engage until it was well withing half the range of pedal travel. The engagement point on this new setup is almost immediately. It feels really nice though, nice and light pedal feel, just have to get used to the new engagement point and also driving now without the clutch accumulator helping I think has made me a bit of a sloppy shifter.

It did however, feel like complete crap initially but I found out I had the rod end of the master cylinder screwed way too far into the union piece I had welded to the clevis. I backed this out a few turns and it made the whole movement of the pedal much smoother, were as before the pedal spring was almost binding up half way through which made the pedal stick or clunk at the end of its travel.

I might jack up the rear end and have the wife and kids help me triple check my stop adjustment/ clutch engagement point when I get home from work today just to satisfy my paranoia at this point because I really don't wanna get under there and have to do this all again.

Also to anyone else doing this, the bleeding technique really is strange for this system. Cycling the pedal through the full travel really doesn't do anything, you literally just move the pedal through it's first 1/2" or so of travel and then crack the bleeder, this for some reason works the best.

What are you guys getting for these two measurements (pictured below) out of curiosity? First is the total length of master cylinder rod from cylinder to jam nut and the second is the length of the stop I have set currently. About 1" and .625" currently... Just trying to ballpark if this looks right. This is with the stop set with 1/4" additional freeplay at pedal end after disengagement point per end of the tilton video.

 

If anyone needs bumpers for the FJ clutch pedal after doing this mod I have uploaded the fusion 3d file that should work, just use the press/pull function to make the pad as thick or thin as you need it for your application, export to stl and print it out. I used TPU for mine at 15% infill to have some squish. Works for upper and lower bumpers on the pedal.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vVqjVTsBcXa6LQWq6T0rSA__EG4WP-lW/view?usp=sharing

 

Sorry for triple posting here but the thread has been quiet for a while now and I just wanted to share my thoughts.

It has been a little over 2,000 miles now with the new clutch setup and I am more than pleased. It took a little bit to get used to the new clutch engagement point and I did not realize how much the accumulator was babying me before I removed it! I can tell if I am shifting lazily now that is for sure. Since I have become accustomed to it… it is hard to describe any other way than it feels more direct and precise, in summary very good.

Probably the best part about it is there is no more annoying chirp.

However, ever since doing this whole clutch change and TOB conversion it sometimes makes another noise. This noise only happens when it is cold outside and the truck is also ambient cold temp. When I start the truck and have it in neutral with the clutch pedal out it makes a sort of whining groaning noise and its coming from the TOB area. It generally goes away with one push and release of the clutch pedal but sometimes takes a minute of idling after that before it goes away.

I only noticed it since some mornings I will start my truck and let it warm up while I get my coffee, when I do this, I use the clutch bypass button to avoid pushing the pedal, hence how I came to discover the noise. To me it does not seem like a big deal but just thought I would make mention of it in case anyone else has experienced or does experience the same thing.

To me it just seems like a noise caused by cold metal moving on cold metal, since when I leave work in the afternoon after my truck has been sitting in the warm sun all day it does not make this noise.

Hope everyone is doing well and happy Easter.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/manual-transmission-needs-replaced.829779/

 

I wonder if it's a case of the initial "stiffness" of the 200 series TOB consequently causing the piston to spin like another user had. Have you popped the inspection cover off to take a look inside while the engine is running?