Toyota Tacoma Engine Failure at 60k miles

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/v6-3-5-l-failed-at-71k-miles.804716/

Similar just happened to my Tacoma at 60k miles. Was driving home and the temperature gauge spiked and pulled over on the freeway. Popped the hood and it was smoking. Had it towed to a local mechanic I've used. P301 code - cylinder 1 full of coolant / misfire, gasket blown, etc. They recommended getting it to a Toyota Dealership and thought Toyota might be willing to help out on their warranty/goodwill side. The truck was barely out of Toyota's warranty. Both the dealership and Toyota Corporate offered no assistance.

 

I'm sorry this happened to you.
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That being said, the factory warranty is 5 years / 60k miles. Black and white. Crystal clear. They have a video of you acknowledging this fact in the Beaverton Finance Manager's office when you refused the extended warranty coverage protection plan as offered. (Trust me when I say this) Toyota has been recording these sales transactions for *years*.
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Toyota has every legal right to deny your warranty claim, because you DO NOT have one. GET OVER THIS FACT.
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Your warranty coverage has expired. Period. End of discussion. Toyota is not running a charity, they are running an international business.
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I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU TAKE (TOW) IT TO AN INDEPENDENT SHOP FOR A SECOND OPINION without disclosing ANY of the above info to them. Just tell them your temp gauge pegged, you pulled over, and had it towed straight there. See what diagnosis you get. I would bet a $100 it ain't an engine failure.
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I would hope you have nothing more than a burst a coolant hose, perhaps around the heater core, thermostat housing, or water pump.
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Did you even pop the hood or crawl around underneath to determine a potential cause of failure?

Did you check the oil level?

Did you check the coolant level?

Did you plug in any handheld scan tool, which every owner should have, and download DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes)?
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My gut instinct here is that your cooling system failed catastrophically and instantly and spewed coolant everywhere. This does NOT mean you need a new engine.
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This forum is littered with Stealership quotes for outrageous amounts of money for comically simple problems.
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YOU MIGHT JUST NEED A WATER PUMP

 

Does the motor start up even very briefly? Is it seized? If the bottom end is good then, while you may need new heads, it isn't new motor time either. Heads warp far faster then bottom ends fail IF it has oil in it and is being pumped around the spinny bits. The overheat light coming on may be a good thing as no coolant at all won't trip the overheat light as it can't read what ain't there. [coolant]

 

What a mess. Extended warranty may have been worth it here.

 

Yikes this scares me. Good luck man

 

i too would recommend to bring it to another shop that is not the dealer. at the very least it could just be a water pump failure and as long as you pulled over and shut off the engine i really cant imagine it causing $16k worth of damages. I also would be very wary of what the dealer says.

 

~

Wow. My wife drives a '19. Better watch it.


.

 

Sorry to hear your troubles .. have u tried a junk yard to see if u can pick up a used motor . Then have an independent shop drop the motor in . It would be cheaper than what the stealership charges . Best of luck .

 

I would do what big carbon footprint suggested . The motor is possibly still good and you need is a water pump . Dealerships can be quite the criminals . At least some of them . I think it’s worth the coin to tow it to a private guy and let them check it out . I really think you have a good shot

 

This is a true story and VERY related. Just happened less than a week ago. I cannot make this up.
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My youngest kid, a high school junior, 17 yrs old, calls and says his car (a 2017 Dodge Charger with ~91k miles), exhibited these exact same symptoms JUST as he was pulling into the student parking lot at his high school the other morning. Steam and smoke blowing everywhere. But he drove it straight into his usual parking spot behind the gym.
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I tell him to GO STRAIGHT TO CLASS and I will come take a look at it with the spare key before lunch. I'm at work.
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I get there on my lunch break and there is a huge puddle of pink fluid underneath, partially drying. Completely obvious. It is not slick, so I know instantly is not tranny fluid - but coolant.
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Plug in my scan tool before I touch anything. NOTHING. No DTCs.
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Pop the hood.
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Oil check - AOK.
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Visual inspection - normal. Serpentine belt intact.
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Coolant check ----> Whoopsie daisy there isn't any in the radiator or overflow tank. That is a BIG CLUE. But I cannot see where the coolant has spewed out from, because I'm in dress clothes and cannot crawl underneath. BUT I KNOW THIS IS A COOLANT LEAK
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I am now <5 minutes into the diagnostic and I have already figured this out.
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Car starts and runs fine, I back it out of the parking spot, and pull right back in.
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I have it towed to a local shop, NOT the dealership, and explain there is a catastrophic failure with the cooling system. The cooling system is bone dry - so DO NOT perform a test drive - but proceed straight to a COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSTIC AND PRESSURE TEST.
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About 4 hours later, I get a call that a simple heater core supply/return hose assembly has failed.
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$600+ for the part and $1300 labor.
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Me: NO F**KING WAY
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I ask for the part number, and they provided it. Thanks, let me call you back. I found the hose assembly part on Mopar Warehouse for <$200. This should not be a Dorman part from RockAuto, but it most certainly does not need to come from a Dodge dealer.

It took me a while, maybe 2 hrs online before I discovered / determined this hose assembly, while cumbersome could be replaced in <2 hours without removing the intake manifold.
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I don't have the time to deal with this, but my knowledge is now power and leverage.
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I call the shop back and challenge the "Dodge dealer" vs "Mopar wareehouse" parts price. Yes, I can provide my own part(s). They won't warranty the part and I demure. No problem. Its a Dodge Mopar warehouse part - not a FleaBay or Amazon part.
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Then, $1300 labor is not right. I now know this requires the cowl and wipers to be removed, but that's about it, and half dozen hose connections, so this is 1-2 hr job for your best tech. Give me a reasoanable labor quote otherwise I'm going come get it, use your garden hose to fill it up with water, drive it home, and deal with it myself.
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I'm not your ordinary idiot, and I can and I will change this hose assembly out, but I'd just rather have you do it.

1 hr diagnostic labor charge to pinpoint the coolant leak
2 hrs labor replace the part I supply
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3 hrs shop labor plus my supplied part


PEOPLE DO YOUR DUE DILIGENCE

 

Also what’s crazy to me is even the first mechanic . He said it looks bad ? What exactly does that mean .
( from him )
Smoke , Antifreeze? Usually that’s what happens when you overheat

 

I would say most Toyota dealers are complete scumbags. So is Toyota corporate. I have some experience with both. Mine wasn’t a big issue at all and they simply did not give a shit.

 

Dang. What's even the point of the 100k warranty then?

Toyota seems to be becoming the shit that hits the fan though

 

Don't understand the reason to tow to Oregon. Bellevue Toyota dealership just around the corner..

 

shoulda bought a Toyota

if it’s not a Toyota maybe

 

As money gets tighter , things will get worse unfortunately. Plus people these days want to do as little as possible and make a ton of money..
Again … I would look a little deeper into this with a private mechanic for sure

 

Bummer

My ‘19 is around 75k

Fingers crossed

 

Oh fudge!

 

wow mine is 2020 very close to 2019 i should start praying lol

 

wow somebody ate all there vegetables, im impressed