Long Travel BS Thread

I did the 4Runner hose too like @Airdog. $30 and it looks nice and factory.

 

I couldn't find a 4runner hose for the life of me. I bought it from 2 different websites and each time I got an email saying it's discontinued

 

hmm weird, I bought mine in like 201 I think.. a few years ago for sure

 

Driveshaft had a nasty trifecta of issues that were all being masked by the OEM carrier bearing. Shafts were out of phase with each other, balance was way off, and center U-joint was toast. Everything re-balanced and put back together with the Mitchmade bearing and the driveline feels smoother than with the OEM bearing. At least the truck will let me know if the shaft ever has another problem.

 

Super cheap easy peace of mind for the scary short OEM studs. These are a must

 

Or you could drill out your hubs for longer 5/8 studs.

 

you’ve actually not been using ET lug nuts until now

 

Do I need to change my wheels for this?

 

Depends
Some wheels have room to drill
Some don’t
My racelines I just drilled out

 

You can thank discount tire lmao. It’s been in the back of my mind this entire time.

was laying in bed and was like hmm I should order those

 

what he said.
Though my trail readys came drilled for 5/8 and 45 degree lug nuts.

 

Worst problem I had was the shelf of the studs was just a hair larger than the stud itself so I had to drill mine twice

 

IS300 studs from arp fit without modification and are about twice as long
Pair it with some titanium lugs and you've got little to no gain in rotating mass, more corrosion resistance, no drilling, and an opportunity to flex on the haters
https://www.ti64.com/category-s/110928.htm

that's how mine is set up. Just gotta make sure you use some kinda grease or antisieze on the lugs and go slow threading them on/off cause titanium likes to gall easily and basically friction weld itself to stuff

 

The knurled section of the lug was just a bit too long on mine also. Thru them on the lathe and machined it down so they were flush with the hub.

 

Someone knock on wood, but ain’t no way this new 4L80E is overheating now. Jumped from 6an to 8an lines, and added a second cooler. 260,000 BTU’s of heat extraction. Also have an improved racing thermostat on there so in the winter time, my trans will actually reach operating temp.

 

I don’t have a ton of experience with these thermostats. However I do know they are the leading killer of 68RFE’s. Hopefully it doesn’t completely bypass the cooler or you have some sort of trans temp alert.

 

Nope, in its “fully closed” temp, it still flows 10% thru the cooler. Prevents temperature shocking and aeration. It starts to open at 165 and is fully open at 185. The Holley has a transmission temp gauge with different alert settings so we’re good there.

improved racing is probably the best bar none in fluid control devices. I’m not really concerned about it sticking shut or anything.

 

Ok, as long as you have an alert if temps start to climb. You should be fine. After some of the 68’s I’ve replaced I’m super paranoid about something restricting flow in a trans cooler.

 

Yeah in either the open or closed or partially open, there is still 100% flow. Even if it failed, I’d have minimum 10% flow through the cooler, and 90% flow bypassing the cooler back to my trans.

https://www.improvedracing.com/high-flow-engine-transmission-oil-cooler-thermostat.html

 

Why not just manage the fan operation? Especially when the cooler location does not appear to have airflow from truck movement.