Easier way to replace coolant bypass

Best way: remove the cab.
Easy way: not for this job.

I went with removing the transmission route, did it in my garage with the truck on jack stands. Saturday and Sunday.

 

When I took mine to the dealer he quoted me a 5 hour job and we agreed on the price.....he calls me and said they need to keep it another day some of the bolts were frozen...I told him to keep it as long as he wants but I'm not paying more than the number we agreed.....10 hours of labor and price came in UNDER his first quote.....pretty happy considering this was all bullsheet not caused by me....One year warranty and I will return to the dealer to have it inspected before that period is up...

 

I heard it was doable with the transmission removed.

Did you install the upgrade part or the plastic piece

 

There is an updated part number but no upgraded(aluminum) part is available.

 

Is the return on investment of this repair high enough? My knee jerk reaction is a hard no.

 

I wish there was a way to reach it to toss some jb weld on it or heavy duty silicone. Mine is doing it, 2016 w 100k. Pretty sure its been a slow weep since 70k ish. Its just flowering, no visible drips. I was quoted $2000 from my dealer.

 

I didn't even know about it until my temp gauge shot to red and my coolant reservoir was empty......saw the pink foam coming out of the coolant pipe.....dammit

 

I knew I had saw one……



16356-31051 - water bypass joint

I believe this is a Lexus part……many have used it. The picture shows the factory poly piece from a manual trans Tacoma

 

I haven't had it "officially" diagnosed but all the signs are there compared to many of the photos and descriptions that I've seen on some of the different threads on this site. I will do something just not sure who I will deal with. Thank you for all your help !!

 

A member not too long ago mentioned in another thread he tried a Subaru coolant conditioner that stops head gasket leaks and was successful. It would be interesting to hear from him again.

As far as that aluminum piece, alls one needs is a mill, TIG, and a dremel with a cut off wheel to make that swap happen IF that Lexus part is a true fit at the flanges. Everything else can be manipulated/added.

 

Why wouldn’t it fit? It comes off the same engine, 3.5l

 

Then the absolute answer is it’s an easy swap if you have the means. If not, ask a custom fabricator.

 

This is mentioned at some point in the other thread I was mentioning, it's not an exact match and would have to be altered to work correctly. From all I have read, nobody has used it yet.

 

The only issue I see is this. But that can easily be found at a scrap yard. It doesn’t matter what it comes off of, just as long as it’s a match. Hell, McMaster might have something to match. I’m sure there are other sources for the perfect fit.

Done.

 

This might be it. The Tacoma’s looks a bit more separated. But, that can be manipulated also.

 

Here's the thread I'm talking about...
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...for-plastic-rear-coolant-bypass-joint.701890/

 

Great info, thanks !! Once I get the issue solved I'll report back how my experience went. Maybe it will help or deter the next person with a coolant bypass pipe failure.

 

Mine was leaking from the moment I bought it new. The new one they put on hasn’t leaked in 14k mixed driving miles. These trucks have more issues than people come across.
My buddies 2016 had the front timing cover leak, rear diff leak, HPFP recently replaced (started knocking around 65k miles). Had to replace a faulty CPS. Also the MAF sensor just failed due to running a K&N filter.

 

Wow that suks !! Going to check a few things out over the next week or 2 to see what options are available at least around here. I'll just need to be sure the coolant is topped off for now and keep driving it.

 

ok

thanks for that correction. I thought it was a viable replacement