Zero Point Calibration 3rd Gen

Hey everyone,

Wondering if anyone has experience manually doing a zero point calibration on their 3rd gen? I’ve read up on it and it seems simple with a paper clip, but all the forums are about 2nd gen Tacos. Anyone done it on their 3rd gen? Does it work the same way? Just don’t want to do more damage.

Thanks!

 

From the 3rd gen fsm...
I've done it; it works.

 

Don’t know how I missed that when I was looking. Thanks for the reply!!

 

Ignorant...wasdis do?

 

VSC (vehicle stability control) uses vehicle speed, yaw rate sensor in an ecu, and steering wheel angle to calculate if the vehicle is going where the driver intends or is skidding. If detected, the truck will try to correct it.

So if truck detects the steering wheel is turned (measure angle), and truck is moving (measure wheel speed), ECU will expect to see a yaw rate (turn rate assuming no slipping). If ecu doesnt detect the expected yaw rate within some error, it will fire brakes on one side of the truck thru abs system to try to obtain the expected yaw rate. This has the effect of reducing skidding out of control.

So truck needs to know where straight ahead is on steering wheel so it can measure how many degrees of turn are currently commanded. It uses a sensor in the steering wheel to measure that angle. ECU will check to see if its 0 calibration on steering wheel correlates to zero yaw enough of the time (in certain conditions, etc). If it detects zero yaw isnt at zero steering angle, will give an error.

To fix, need to reset the zero point at the steering wheel in the ECU. This can get out of whack after curbing, or lifting, or suspension work, alignments etc.

 

Thanks!

 

So I just lifted my 3rd gen with 5100s, OME 887s and and an AAL plus some slightly bigger tires, about 2.5" total. I'm noticing some floating or wandering at higher speeds. Would resetting the the zero point in the ECU help fix this? Thanks for any info in advance.

 

What you’re describing is either an alignment issue (i.e. add more caster) or just a function of a lifted truck.

ZPC would be a fix if, for example, your Stability control system kicked in during regular driving (typically on or off ramps or turning from a stop) after your lift.

OA

 

I have a 2020 Tacoma and my pinout is different, any chance someone has access to the location of the 2 pins required on this port? Thanks in advance.

 

@Jbain, yours looks the same as the guide. Both have 16 pins.

 

Do the look at the number of pin openings, look at the pin openings that are populated.

 

Ahhh, now I see. Had to blow up the photo a lot to see that detail.

 

This is an OBD II that does have some requirements to meet standards. Unfortunately the port 12 is not one of the standard ports, it is an option for the manufacturer. Chances are they would be the same to reduce the need for different interface adapters, but stranger things happen.

 

The beat answer for this question is simply, no

 

Any Toyota Techs have access to the new pinout for the 2020's?

 

2016-2019 DLC3 has the following pins:

4 - CG
5 - SG
6 - CANH
7 - SIL
9 - TAC
12 - TS
13 - TC
14 - CANL
16 - BAT

2020 DLC3 has the following pins:

5 - SG
6 - CANH
7 - SIL
13 - TC
14 - CANL
16 - BAT

Toyota removed the wire running from the ABS ECU to the DLC3 connector. Interesting fact though is that the ABS ECU itself is the same for 2020, so I suspect if you wanted to be able to do the same thing, you could just add a terminal and tire to Pin 24 of the ABS ECU connector and ground it to the vehicle's chassis and it would be the same as jumping 4-12 on a 2016-2019.

Vacuum-Type Brake Booster:
82998-24420 - Terminal W/Wire, Connector (Alternate: 82998-12780, 82998-12790)

Hydraulic-Type Brake Booster:
82998-24250 - Terminal W/Wire, Connector (Alternate: 82998-74030, 82998-74040, 82998-24260)

Jeff

 

Thank you so much Keff, seems Toyota got wise to it.

 

Hey, I just tried this on my 2018 TRD OR and can't really tell if it worked... The only lights that would flash we're we' TPMS and airbag lights. Any advice?

 

Are you sure you're jumping pins 4 and 12; and not 5 and 13?
Is your connector wide side up or down?

 

You're right I was doing it upside down, but even when I do it the right direction, it does not do anything. Anyone else having trouble on 2018 with push start ignition?