Zero Point Calibration 3rd gen (2018)

Hey all, so a few months ago I replaced some suspension parts, my wheels, and tires. So I have OME nitrochargers all the way around. Struts are on 887 coils @ ~2” of lift in the front and the rear has the stock leaf pack with an icon 1.5” AAL kit bolted to it. Tires are 255/80/r17 Toyo Open Country AT3 on TRD Pro wheels (17x7) I think? With like 6mm offset or something.

Set up has been good so far, and I like it. One of the only downsides I’ve seen is the truck’s VSC seems like it gets confused, mainly when going around turns. When I go to accelerate around a turn a lot of times, the vsc/trac light flashes a few times, like the tires are losing traction with the road, even though they’re not… it gets pretty annoying, I don’t want it to get to the point where the truck is trying to correct something that’s not wrong, which could turn into some issue on the road I feel like. In short, I want it to work properly given my setup and I want it to work for when it’s actually needed.

I read a lot about zero point calibration via jumping pins on the OBD2 port to reset the zero point calibration, and to kind of reprogram the VSC system. I read that this works for second gens and like only 2016s. I have a 2018, and tried the paper clip method several times, but tto no avail. I remember someone mentioning Toyota switched one of the pins (maybe an ABS pin) to somewhere else, which is why it doesn’t work.

Are there any other alternative methods or would anyone have locations for the two pins that need to be jumped? Meaning where could I find this supposed moved pin to jump the existing pin to presumably do the same action? Thanks, anything helps.

 

Would there me a connector to tap into on the ABS pump for example? Any wiring harness anywhere else? Anyone have anything?

 

Don't know if this will do anything for you. From what I understand (I think) 2018 and up they nuked the paperclip option entirely and it now must be done via computer.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/zero-point-calibration-3rd-gen.597187/page-3#post-26167770

I had to take it to the dealership when I jacked my alignment. They initially quoted me 700 dollars or something insane until I showed them the page from the service manual and told them that was all I wanted done... Then they only charged me 175.

Seemed like a bargain at the time compared to buying the computer but now I jacked my alignment again in a new city and am worried about what the dealership is going to try and charge me

 

That’s a pain in the ass. I hate that lots of companies are trying to lockdown their stuff so it’s kinda their way or the highway. We can’t do as much and it sucks. “Right to repair” even though it’s not the exact same thing is starting to go down the shitter and it sucks.

I think @Jeff Lange mentioned that you could jump some abs pin in an alternate location do so the same kind of thing unless they completely locked it down. Either way, it needs to be done since I have bigger tires, and my alignment specs might be a tad bit different from the lift. Anyway, how did you word it? Did you say my alignment is out and my VSC is out of it? Or that you modified stuff and need an adjustment? I’m gonna have to ask my dealer at some point, hoping it’s around what you paid or less, because I’m not trying to pay the dealer for something I could have done myself cheaply and easily…

 

Forget the pins. Some have success with the

$100 innova 5210 OBD2 scanner & engine code reader, battery tester, live data, oil reset, car diagnostic tool for most vehicles, bluetooth compatible with america's top car repair app

innova 5210

 

Laptop, Tactrix, Techstream...

'18 is when they added radar...tied in with VSC?
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...AQFnoECEIQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0myR0vo5GFr1xNQyFPDngG

 

No, trying to tell to talk to them about VSC and alignment is when they wanted to charge me an arm and a leg for diagnostics and inspections. Finally I just showed them the page from the service manual and said "Don't do anything except the zero point calibration. That's all I want done." He talked to his tech and had me rolling in an hour.

 

Oh dang. Probably is tied in with VSC in some way, shape, or form, but I don’t know if that’s why they changed a pin location…

I’ve heard a bunch about tech stream, I just don’t really know all that much about it. How much does it cost, and how would I do a zero point calibration with it.

If an innova scan tool would work, I would definitely try that, but wouldn’t want to buy it since that’s probably the only time I’d use it. I already have a BlueDriver scan tool but I don’t think it would do anything. If anyone would let me borrow their innova that would be awesome, but I honestly don’t expect anyone to do that haha.

 

For less than a hundred , it’s a lot cheaper than having the dealer reset it.

 

Strange. I’ve got same springs, shocks, rims and 255/80/17 wildpeaks. I do have dobinsons medium leafs though (2” lift). No issues with VSC.

 

That is weird. Maybe alignment related then? You don’t get any sort of vsc light flashing when you go around turns? I mostly notice it when you get on the gas a little bit going around a turn, maybe when you’re trying to pull out and accelerate quick or something like that.

 

I guess so… Are there any adapters needed for something like techstream? Are there any write ups on how to do a zero point calibration?

 

Never had a VSC malfunction after or before the lift, even when driving aggressively.

You are positive that’s it’s not slippery and your tires are spinning a bit?

 

Interesting. I mean yeah, it does happen when it’s wet, and thats to be expected because that happened before all the mods when it was out, sometimes going around turns or accelerating from a stop.

In conjunction with that now, it likes to flash the VSC light when i’m going around turns on dry pavement. Its usually when gas is applied through the turn, or when the turn is made quick. Sometimes it doesn’t do it, which is kind of weird. Unless my tires really are slipping on dry pavement, but i highly doubt it.

 

This seems to be a common issue after suspension work. There are so many of us that never need to mess with the zero point so it makes me wonder if something is bent,cut, misaligned, etc. from the install. I don't know but there are enough threads where the zero point didn't work that I would recheck everything first.
I would also look into techstream. The connection is money but it's worth having the tool

 

Hey quick question guys. I’m probably gonna pay my dealer to do a zero point calibration. They said there is more than one type of zero point calibration, which makes sense. This zero point calibration we’ve been referring to is the zero point calibration of the yaw-rate sensor? Is it just that one? Or does it involve the steering angle sensor too. Which sensors would be recalibrated if done it on earlier third gens by the paper clip? What have you guys told the dealer and what have some of you paid? Just to get a comparison. Thanks

 

I think steering angle and yaw calibration are one in the same. AFAIK, it's all in the steering wheel...

They might be referring to a calibration having to do with TSS. Since you have an '18, N/A...

@Bishop84

 

Yes. There are ones for the radar sensor and forward camera, but the paper clip one is the yaw sensor. If you are getting a yaw sensor code, why not give it a try? It takes seconds to do. Seems silly to pay for that? I think the OBD wiring changed in 2019?

 

Thanks. I sorta thought they were the same thing but I saw things that said otherwise. I just don’t want to tell them to calibrate the yaw rate sensor and then something else having to need programming to fix my issue.

 

Each issue has its own code.