Zerex red with OEM Toyota coolant

Has anyone had any issues mixing Zerex Red Asian vehicle coolant with oem pink? I am assuming oem Toyota coolant is in the truck since it is pink/red and I saw a service record for coolant flush from the dealer a few years back.

Anyways, in going on a long drive with the truck and noticed some drips that I presume are coolant since it wasn't oil and my power steering and brake fluid were at the max. My level in the overflow tank with a cold engine (ran for 60 seconds to move the truck) was the same level as the photo in this thread. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/coolant-leak-found-it.293356/ I am assuming the coolant should be at the F mark when cold. Based on the drops it seems like the leak is from the rear right of the engine. Any ideas what may be leaking from that general area?
I'm going to get back under it tomorrow and poke around.

 

coolants are generally compatible, but mixing may decrease the lifetime, depending on what is mixed with what
Once you track down your leak, it's a good time to do a flush anyway

 

flushed mine yesterday, filled back with zerex pre-mix. Used coolant was a little weak but still pink, no signs of oil or that much dirt.

 

Since My Coolant seldom stays in longer then 2 years I mix it with any but Green which makes a Horrid Brown Color.

A cooling system pressure tester is great for finding leaks removes much of the guess work.

 

In a pinch you can just use water. Truck won't explode if you don't use 100% OEM coolant.

If you happen to mix coolants, but flush it as soon as you can and run all the same stuff. Doesn't really matter what stuff you use, though.

 

Alright, crisis averted. I park my vehicle on the street and my driveway has a steep angle to it. What happened was the the frame had water and dripped diluted Fluid Film on the driveway leaving a very fluid substance with a mild greasiness to it.
I was able to clean the overflow tank and can now clearly see the L and F marks so I'll be adding some Toyota or Zerex fluid to it.

Thanks everyone!

 

I checked the coolant and it is clean with a really good freeze point.
Again, before I purchased it 2 years ago it had a coolant flush at the dealership. I'm looking to top it off and noticed:
Zerex Asian = HOAT
Peak Asian = POAT
Prestone Asian = POAT

I hear Zerex is a great coolant but seeing it is listed as a HOAT vs the POAT of the other two are there any concerns or recommendations between them when topping off the coolant?

I'm used to using the old universal green Prestone so this new stuff is new to me!

 

During the summer you can add distilled water but need to flush it before winter weather to ensure proper winter mix ratio. You can by Pentosin, I was told that's who Toyota buys their coolants from.

 

HOAT contains Silicates which Toyota specifies not to use.
PHOAT contains phosphate and Silicates. Double No No
POAT is the recommended coolant for Toyota and is what they use.
Add distilled water and test again or drain, flush with distilled untill clear.
Drain from radiator untill empty.
Add 1 gal Red full strength and distilled water till full.
You end up with 50/50 mix if you don't drain the block because 1.3 gal. of distilled remains in the block.

 

Doesn't matter what you use as long as it isn't mixed

 

Any time I mess with coolant I always take out the t stat and flow a garden hose through the upper rad hose through the rad through the block and out the tstat housing

To get rid of any old coolant not drained from the plug in the radiator

Than I blow compressed air in the same way to evacuate as much water as I can

Than fill with equal parts concentrate and water

 

The Toyota engineers know best. Distilled water is best not hose water.

 

I'm sure they do, doesnt mean universal green doesn't work fine

 

That's why to use exactly to put in what you take out. I want what works right, not fine.

 

I'm fine using it because tap water local to me is just filtered sewage so it's pretty deposit free, not going to say it's 100% but it did fine on my truck for literal decades, cooling passages still looked new when I opened them up for the final time after I wrecked it

 

Green works right, doesn't freeze, doesn't corrode metals or degrade rubbers and raises the boiling point of water, you're just being anal which there's nothing wrong with

 

Yeh it's wrong, but you do you.

 

I guess me and my vehicles' cooling systems will be wrong the 7 days a week I drive them and none of the times they've overheated despite towing ~6k lbs or driving flat out on the highway till I hit speed limiter and stay there till I get to the exit before my departure off the expressway

 

It protects against Freezing it raises the boiling point .

All the other crap is for people that never open the hood the only time they see coolant is when it is dripping on the ground.

It is the fact coolant is not changed in the life of the vehicle in some cases why coolant has become so brand specific.

If my coolant sees 20,000 miles before being changed it is a long time.It is long periods of not changing that can cause damage to the cooling system internals.

I mix everything but red and Green once was enough

One failure after soldering a Radiator I took water out of the creek beside the road. Better then an Expensive towing Bill or very long walk.