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Yotashop 2.7 engines worth the money?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Stout890, Dec 28, 2017.

  1. Dec 28, 2017 at 12:22 PM
    #1
    Stout890

    Stout890 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So my 2.7 took a shit on me with 165kmiles on the clock after its second head gasket...(who said they were bomb proof?)

    So I'm gonna toss a new engine in there and I have boiled it down to yotashop long block with all Japanese internals. But they have the strictest warranty guidelines and a hefty 600$ core deposit.
    So $2900+tax and $250 shipping and a $600 core deposits makes this one expensive engine choice what do you guys think? Anyone driving one of those engines around have any feedback for me?

    JDM Engines are to different from my California 2.7 and the unknown mileage and condition along with my desire to finally have that Toyota reliability and a new 0mile engine means that's a no go for me

    And the other "Chinese" clone engines floating around make me want to barf

    Am I missing an option here?
     
  2. Dec 28, 2017 at 12:23 PM
    #2
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    Jesus Christ that's a lot of money for a 3RZ! Check eBay they go for way cheaper than that.
     
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  3. Dec 28, 2017 at 12:36 PM
    #3
    Stout890

    Stout890 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    10" sub, OME881 on Bilstein's, 3" all-pro leaf springs with billies in the back, JBA UCA's, bed cover with custom LED lighting, k&n intake and DT headers, OEM E-locker in the rear. 32" BFG KO2 on steel D window wheels, suicide knob. rebuilt 3RZ w/ stage 1 cam and balance shaft delete . big 3 mod, all new suspension and body mount bushings. cat back magnaflow exhaust.
    Yeah but yotashop for sure uses Japanese internal parts and eBay engines are 99.999% of the time the Chinese clone engine.

    Iv even called some rebuil shops like engineking and they use Chinese internal parts.

    I'm willing to pay extra for a full Japanese new or rebuilt engine. But is yotashop the only option for that? And would love to hear from anyone who has put one in there truck
     
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  4. Dec 28, 2017 at 12:56 PM
    #4
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Dude I bought a fresh 3.4 and the transmission for $1450 out of a fresh kill in a small collision but with a bent frame. I think that's spendy compared to the deals some people get. I'd find a JDM online or locally for less than $2k first before I got one for 3k.
     
  5. Dec 28, 2017 at 12:58 PM
    #5
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    I would honestly pass that's way too pricey. I know Marlin Crawler rebuilds transmissions, but do they rebuild engines?
     
    Stout890[OP] likes this.
  6. Dec 28, 2017 at 12:58 PM
    #6
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Nope
     
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  7. Dec 28, 2017 at 1:00 PM
    #7
    Fiesta346

    Fiesta346 Well-Known Member

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    sounds like you had bad luck..i know a guy who has 300k+ on a 2.7L
     
    Stout890[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  8. Dec 28, 2017 at 1:25 PM
    #8
    Stout890

    Stout890 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    what would you do than?

    It is pricey but Iv already put a lot into this truck and plan on keeping it for ever and realize that that means I will likely put more into it again.

    I'll get the 600$ core charge back as long as my head isn't cracked. Shipping costs are about the same So basically 800$ difference.

    I'd really be interested in any shop that rebuilds these with Japanese parts. But haven't found any others.

    Any shops local to socal that can rebuild my engine with oem internals?

    Oh and the engine is bored 1over, does that increase power noticeably?
     
  9. Dec 28, 2017 at 1:34 PM
    #9
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    I would look for something cheaper. Get a JDM engine for cheap and transfer all of the CA CARB emissions equipment over. You can get JDM engines for under $1,500 from importers with low mileage. You just need to swap a few things like pulleys and intakes, etc.

    If money is no problem get that engine for sure, I'm just saying $3k for an engine is pricey. You can buy a whole salvage title Tacoma off Copart for that much shipped to your door.
     
    motodude95 likes this.
  10. Dec 28, 2017 at 1:35 PM
    #10
    Stout890

    Stout890 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah bad luck and previous owner had it regeared with 5:11 and a 3" body and 3" block and spacer lift so they were probably running 36" tires

    Iv heard of 3rz's going strong past 400k
    And 22re's getting close to 800k
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2017
  11. Dec 28, 2017 at 1:37 PM
    #11
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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  12. Dec 28, 2017 at 3:00 PM
    #12
    Clay_916

    Clay_916 Well-Known Member

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    Maybe find out why you've blown through two HGs in under 200k before you start throwing money at it because that is extremely unusual.

    Is doing the HG yourself an option? It’s not the worst things to do on the planet and it might give you some better insight to the underlying issue.
     
  13. Dec 28, 2017 at 7:00 PM
    #13
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    L & R in Sante Fe Springs is the shop I'd do a rebuild with, but you'll pay another $1k on top of just going with a JDM engine. Check out

    https://www.ichibanjdm.com/

    If I was going to get a JDM engine I'd go with them - I was close but then I found my engine and trans from this guy in Bakersfield:

    Jose: (661) 440-1812

    He sells a lot of Tacomas and has a lot of parts for them.

    What cylinder(s) went on your engine? Was it a warped / cracked head, block, or gasket failure?
     
  14. Dec 28, 2017 at 7:17 PM
    #14
    Steves104x4

    Steves104x4 Well-Known Member

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    BUCKLE UP! It makes it harder for Aliens to pull you out of your Truck.
    I dunno, 4K doesn’t sound too bad to me if it’s rebuilt correctly but it is a ton of money. Hopefully, you get what you pay for. Good luck with it!
     
    Stout890[OP] likes this.
  15. Dec 28, 2017 at 7:55 PM
    #15
    black coffee

    black coffee A is A.

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    What is special about “Japanese internals” anyway? Weren’t the 3RZs made in USA?

    My 2001 was made in Fremont, CA. I thought all tacoma trucks were USA made but maybe I’m wrong.
     
  16. Dec 28, 2017 at 7:56 PM
    #16
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    I think he's talking about bearings etc. Search for reviews on rebuilders and a lot of them have been found to use cheap bearings and gaskets to keep their profit margins up.
     
    Stout890[OP] likes this.
  17. Dec 28, 2017 at 8:05 PM
    #17
    DukesTaco

    DukesTaco Well-Known Member

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    My 2.7 has 333k mies in it. I did a head gasket and it had a cracked head. I got a new heads and did the work myself. Understand r $600 and still running strong.
     
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  18. Dec 28, 2017 at 8:13 PM
    #18
    cory02taco

    cory02taco Well-Known Member

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    I bought a used 3rz from Arizona and had it shipped to Maine for around $1600 if I remember correctly. Is there something preventing you from going with a used engine vs new rebuilt?
     
  19. Dec 28, 2017 at 10:39 PM
    #19
    vern650

    vern650 Well-Known Member

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    $3k for a fresh engine is not rediculous. Like others have said look into why your popping headgaskets, a new head may be all that's needed. My 97 3rz has 312k on it and I just had an oil analysis done and she appears to be holding strong. Also FWIW 3rzs go for a premium around here compared to 3.4s. 5vzs can be had for a dime a dozen and it's hard to find a used 3rz for under $1k
     
  20. Dec 28, 2017 at 11:10 PM
    #20
    Stout890

    Stout890 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Wow that jdm engine link you sent has the highest prices Iv seen so far for jdm 3rz. I wonder why? The ones Iv seen go for around $1600.

    So my engine had burnt exhaust valves when I bought it so I had the head rebuilt and did the head gasket than for that. And now either the head has cracked or the gasket went I'm not 100% sure since I haven't taken it apart yet.

    It started consuming coolant and having a rough idle at start up for about 5-10 seconds. Did a compression test and had had low compression on 1&3 and high compression in 4. Did a borascope and found 1,2&3 were clean almost fuel washed looking and 4 was black and wet, looked like coolant mixed with unburned fuel.
    I was adding 1.5-2 liters of water to the radiator ever 60 miles. And the coolant failed a block test and finally saw bubbles in the overflow after my drive home from work
    Here is cylinder #4IMG_2075.jpg
    And here is #3 and 1&2 look the same IMG_2076.jpg
     

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