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Wiring options for solar panels on top of canopy to inside of cab

Discussion in 'Outdoors' started by scott0_1, Dec 14, 2020.

  1. Dec 14, 2020 at 7:38 PM
    #1
    scott0_1

    scott0_1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hello all,

    I'm looking at putting a Jackery Power Station behind one of the seats in my 2017 DCLB. To charge it, I'll put solar panels on my roof rack which is on top of my canopy.

    I also have a fuse block in one of the cubbies in the bed of the truck which I will power off the Jackery.

    I'm wondering how you would go about running the cables??? My thought is to buy something like a double cable entry gland ( https://www.amazon.ca/Black-Double-Glands-Dynamic-Microgrids/dp/B07SLM6V9R ) for the roof of the canopy, run the solar cables in and to the bottom of the bed and out (through one of the cubbies maybe?) and into the cab through a grommet.

    If anyone has done something similar (pictures would be a bonus), please let me know what route you took. The fewer holes I need to make the better!!!

    If anyone knows where all of the grommets are on the underside of the cab, that would be helpful too. The undercoating hides a lot down there!

    Thanks for any help,

    Scott
     
  2. Dec 14, 2020 at 7:56 PM
    #2
    tslick

    tslick Well-Known Member

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  3. Dec 14, 2020 at 8:17 PM
    #3
    scott0_1

    scott0_1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I follow him on YouTube. Lots of good info, but I'm looking for something specific to running the wiring through the Tacoma.
     
  4. Dec 14, 2020 at 8:29 PM
    #4
    tslick

    tslick Well-Known Member

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    I just did a complete system in my truck. Didn't run anything into cab. It's all in the camper. I used the type gland you pictured but white. I used the sika flex Will mentioned and works great. Used 12ga solar wires. Drilled 2 holes for the wire run. Not flexible enough to run it one.
     
    scott0_1[OP] likes this.
  5. Dec 15, 2020 at 11:29 AM
    #5
    Atomic

    Atomic Master Cylinder

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    My solar panels (200W) are mounted on my camper shell racks. Wiring from solar panels run into the side front bottom corner of the camper shell. It is a marine grade feedthru (works well), and my batteries with mppt controller are mounted in the truck bed side wall.

    20191116_100740.jpg
     
    scott0_1[OP] and BassAckwards like this.
  6. Dec 15, 2020 at 12:31 PM
    #6
    scott0_1

    scott0_1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Any particular reason why you chose that spot for the pass through? I was thinking more towards the top for mine.
     
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  7. Dec 16, 2020 at 2:41 AM
    #7
    texas angler

    texas angler Well-Known Member

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    Another option would be a non-permanent solution - no holes and nothing on your roof. My jackery stays in cab and powers the fridge that also stays in cab. I have a solar suitcase I can break out to charge the jackery when needed.

    BB7.jpg
     
    scott0_1[OP] likes this.
  8. Dec 16, 2020 at 6:57 AM
    #8
    Atomic

    Atomic Master Cylinder

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    My preference was to not have penetrations on the roof for weather proofing purposes, and short access to my controller electronics in that corner point of entry. Also if I remove the solar setup, patching the side port would be easy. That's all.
     
    scott0_1[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  9. Oct 22, 2021 at 5:46 PM
    #9
    gsubioguy

    gsubioguy Well-Known Member

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    Old thread but @Atomic: are you just using "L" bracket under the Thule bars? I'm wanting to utilize the angle mount as well but concerned about the height if above the roof rack.
     
  10. Oct 23, 2021 at 7:25 PM
    #10
    Atomic

    Atomic Master Cylinder

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    Yes, aluminum L-bracket. What is your concern about this mounting scheme?
     
  11. Oct 23, 2021 at 7:34 PM
    #11
    gsubioguy

    gsubioguy Well-Known Member

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    Getting too much air under the panel and having it take flight once I put it on the adjustable angle mount.
     
  12. Oct 23, 2021 at 7:39 PM
    #12
    Atomic

    Atomic Master Cylinder

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    Oh. I do not drive with the panels angled. I only angle them after I stop to camp. The panels are strong; no problem if they are not angled when on the road.
     
  13. Oct 23, 2021 at 7:46 PM
    #13
    vorkuta775

    vorkuta775 Well-Known Member

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    OP. If I were you, I would not drill any holes. Put the solar panel on your roof rack (if you have one) or canopy (if you have one ) or RTT. Run the cables down and under the truck along the frame. I mounted my smart controller right on top of the fuse box in the engine bay. From there I ran two leads through the firewall and under the carpet to the back seat where my dometic sits. This way if you want to remove the jackery, and keep it topped off, let it charge, just plug it in, and take it out when you are not using it. Running the cables isnt hard, its just time consuming. I have photos of what my setup looks like if you are interested.
     
  14. Oct 23, 2021 at 7:48 PM
    #14
    gsubioguy

    gsubioguy Well-Known Member

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    Haha no no didn't mean driving with them up. Just assumed that with them mounted several inches above the bars that that might catch/force some air under the panel.
     
  15. Oct 28, 2021 at 12:00 AM
    #15
    scott0_1

    scott0_1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    How did you get the wires down to the frame? Just between the bed and the cab?

    Your setup sounds like what I'm looking for. Any pictures would be welcome!
     
  16. Oct 28, 2021 at 5:34 AM
    #16
    vorkuta775

    vorkuta775 Well-Known Member

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    I will take some pictures from under neath and show you later today.
     
  17. Dec 9, 2021 at 4:49 PM
    #17
    .劉煒

    .劉煒 Well-Known Member

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    I have a flexible panel mounted to my canopy. Works fine.
     
  18. Dec 9, 2021 at 5:14 PM
    #18
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    Snug top Rebel, Thule tracks, ditch tracks, Bagged rear suspension, F/R anytime camera, intermittent wiper switch...
    There are grommets on the rear cab wall already as well as others in the floor.
     
    scott0_1[OP] likes this.

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