Wiring component speakers with an integrated crossover

Thanks to the countless resources already on here I’m almost done with my project to upgrade all my speakers and add an amp to my 2020DC Off-Road. The only thing I have left to do is replace the front door speakers and tweeter with new components and I just want to double check I have the wiring planned out correctly before I get in there bc I haven’t been able to find many posts or tutorials specifically dealing with components with the crossover built into the woofer.

So to avoid cutting into any factory wiring I have the TT tweeter adapter harness which just plugs into the stock tweeter plug and gives you 4 bare wires to work with.

My current plan is to simply connect the two +wires to each other and the two - wires to each other bypassing the tweeter completely. Then I believe I should be able to plug the woofer into the stock wiring harness and then I only have to run new wiring from the tweeter output of the woofer back to the dash/kick panel.
(See attached sketch)

This seemed like the most simple way to avoid cutting factory wires and running extra speaker wiring. But please let me know if there’s something I’ve missed or if there’s a better way to accomplish this.

 

A big help would be knowing what speakers you got

I think you’re adding unnecessary work on yourself by running extra wire, but I’ll know for sure depending on the speaker choice

 

The speakers im putting in are Rockford Fosgate P1675-S components.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P1675S/Rockford-Fosgate-P1675-S.html

I would love to avoid running extra wire if possible I just wasn’t sure how to get the signal back to the tweeter from the woofer component without new wires.

Also I was basing most of this on the wiring diagram from this threads
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/new-component-speakers-and-stock-tweeter-wiring.308379/

Thanks for the help!

 

So with those speakers, I’ll be honest, I would return them and swap for something more traditional.
Either something with an external crossover, or an in-line crossover for the tweeter

 

@Dakaoya i would 100% take this guys advice. I saw you were new here, but @destin_meeks knows his stuff. I don’t know him personally, but he’s helped me with a couple set ups and is one of the best known audio guys on the forum.

My opinion at least.

If he told me to stab one of my tires to get better sound, I prolly would.

 

@mwrood I've been doing enough trawling through this place to plan for this that I posted here specifically hoping @destin_meeks would be able to help me

@destin_meeks I almost bought equivalent JL audio components which I believe have the inline crossover, I will have a look at returning them and potentially getting those instead. I'm a little reluctant to return them though because I have already opened all the boxes and begun to mount the various speakers into their brackets and such in preparation for installation. So I'm not sure if I'd get a full refund, I'll check though bc I have heard good things about the Crutchfield return policy...

If I did end up keeping these speakers do you think there is anything fundamentally flawed in my original plan other than being some extra work? After spending yesterday afternoon tediously but successfully fishing all the wiring behind the dash and through the back of the glovebox for my amp (RF PBR400X4D) I figured that extending the tweeter wires and running them through the kick panel and door wouldn't be too much hassle.

Once again thanks for the help, I really appreciate both you and the forum in general as a resource!

 

Crutchfield return is great. You shouldn’t have any problems with a return

Your original plan would work, but it’s just adding in even more points of failure. And the more wires you run, the more things the dealer or mechanic can screw up or blame you for causing other problems.

 

On a different note I’ve seen around here that it’s better to tap into the front speakers to get a signal for a sub, but I noticed that on the TT harness for the amp there is an additional output for a sub with only two wires which corresponded to only one side of the rear inputs.
Is it not necessary to tap into both the left and right sides for sub inputs?

Since this has already been wired in on a very long wire I’m tempted to just use it to get the signal to a sub amplifier so I don’t have to add my own new taps into the harness. But if it’s much better to use both the front signal and to have both left and right then I’ll probably just go ahead and tap into the harness wires to get all the signals from the front. Either way shouldn’t be too hard and I can avoid cutting into factory wires.

 

you 100% want to get the signal from the front, or prepare to be very disappointed

check the harness before making changes. Several people have noticed that the long wires are purple and green, but they are already tapped into the white and grey front wires. TT made this change somewhat recently I believe, so just check your harness and see

and no, it’s not really necessary to need both left and right signals. For subs you won’t really notice a difference in music between channels

 

Okay cool, that’s super helpful thanks. I will check on my harness, hopefully since i got it just last week it will use the front.

Earlier this week I installed my amp, along with the rear door speakers and for the most part everything seems to be working great. I did notice this morning though some slight static hissing and a fairly quiet but audible whine coming from the speakers when driving around.
From what I understand this is most likely engine noise being introduced by either the ground or by having the power line run too near the speaker wires.

I currently have the amp grounded to a screw just behind the head unit and down a bit. It goes through a small piece of plastic right into the metal frame bar that runs right across the inside of the dash. Is this an adequate location? Does anyone have a suggestion for a better spot?

I also do currently have the power line routed up from the firewall pass through in the drivers footwell, behind the head unit, where it then runs together with all the speaker wires through a small channel to the glovebox.
If this is most likely to be the cause of the issue I should be able to reroute the power cable through the firewall in the passenger footwell and up into the glovebox that way. That should significantly reduce the overall proximity of the power line to the speaker wires (especially because there are like 12ft of extra speaker wire in from the TT harness bundled up and tucked behind the head unit because I didn’t need it all to reach my install spot).

I realize it’s pretty hard to properly diagnose problems like this but any guidance or relevant experience will hopefully help me avoid unnecessarily steps like pulling and rerouting the power cable if it’s not likely to help.

 

Is this a good place to ground my amp?

 

Yeah

 

Cool, I ended up keeping the RF speakers since I had them all opened and ready to install. Everything worked out great and seems to be working properly. It was a little bit of a hassle to get the tweeter wire run through the door boot but gently working a coat hanger through from the inside and pulling the wire through behind it worked nicely as long as you’re patient.

I also took two steps to try and troubleshoot the engine noise/alternator whine I was hearing. One or both of which worked because I’m not hearing it at all anymore.
Firstly I switched the grounding location for the amp from behind the head unit to the factory ground pictured above in the passenger side kick panel. From what I’ve read a bad ground was the most likely cause of the interference so this is probably what helped the most.

Then I also pulled all the excess wire from the TT harness that was previously bundled behind the head unit through into the glove box so that all those loops of wire aren’t sitting right on top of the power cable/behind the head unit where it was probably functioning as a large antenna for interference. For now it’s just bundled and organized in the glove box but ultimately once I’m certain I’m not going to want to move the amp to a different place I’ll cut out the excess and reconnect everything up.

 

I’m no professional but there is a lot of stuff already there and fairly thin metal. I’m gonna vote find another spot

 

It’s as thick as all the other metal in the truck

 

I’m not saying it’s not a good spot it’s just not the spot I would choose.