wiring an ignition power fuse box-help!

Hey guys, I never start threads cause I always find answers here...but this time I'm in a bind.

I have a Blue sea accessory fuse box I want to wire my seat heaters, bed lights, footwells, and whatever else I want to add. problem is I want the entire fuse box to be under ignition power..

That being said..I obviously can't (or don't want to?) "add-a-fuse" to every slot of the cabin fuse box.

Can someone guide me how to add relays to the appropriate slots to avoid overloading the cabin fuse box?

Thanks!

 

Wouldn't you just hook up power from the he battery. Then switches to turn on whatever accessories you have?

 

Google search is your friend

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/69853-blue-sea-aux-fuse-block-install.html

 

What you can do is to add a Fuse block, where you will have all your fuses for the accesories.

Then, if you only want to power those accesories when the truck is on, you will have to use relays for each accesory (with their own switch, of course)...

What I would do is also, if you will have lots of accesories turning on when the truck is on, use one relay for "feeding" the other relays, this way there wont be too much current going to all your relays from where you take the "hot when on" signal...

I did this:

 

I already saw that thread. That would cause the accessories to be always "hot".

I want my seat heaters relayed to ignition in case they are accidentally left on.

 

Another option is the Cooper Bussman Power Distribution Modules which combines the fuses and relays into one box. I would take a picture of what I am doing, but it is all out of the truck and the truck is in the body shop. The downside to these is they do limit how many fuses and relays you can use, though they have multiple models. And this will not be the lowest cost solution.

http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/public/en/bussmann/transportation/products/power_distribution/power_distribution_modules.html

 

Yes! that's exactly what I'm inquiring. I want to keep the accessories ignition powered. Do you have a schematic how to "feed" the other relays?

Sorry first time wiring this and don't want to screw it up.

 

How many amps do you plan on pulling?

You could EASILY put ONE relay that switches on igntion to the power feed to the fuse box, and you can get some pretty high amp relays for pretty cheap.

 

Not much..probably 30-40A total if I put on more accessories. I would probably use one relay but question is wiring it.

currently, I have a a 4 awg wire going from Battery>breaker>fuse box..

instead of drawing from the battery, would I just take add-a-fuse to ignition>relay>fuse box? That part concerns me cause Add-a-fuse has a 10A max i believe.

 

This is another option... look for a 100-150 AMP 12V relay...

But I, personally, wouldn't do it, because there are certain accesories that you will use even though the truck is not running. For example: bed lights, CB, extra charging ports, working lights, etc...

What you can do for having a "master" relay for the others is something like this:



The signal for the "master relay" is going to be taken from any port that is "hot when on"... just like the "anytime fog mod"


Then, in the master relay:
- (30) will be always hot (from your fuse panel)
- (85) goes to ground
- (86) comes from the "Hot when on"
- (87) goes to all the switches of the accesories...

For each of your accesory relays:
- (30) will be always hot (from fuse panel with its own fuse, according to the amps the accesory will use)
- (85) goes to ground
- (86) comes from the switch that you selected and is wired to the "master relay)
- (87) goes to power for your accesory

I hope I was clear! ill try to sketch a quick diagram!

 

subbed cause i need to do this BADLY! waiting on my OTRATTW switches

 

Well here is the diagram... hope you get the idea...



*The always hot should come from your aux fuse block and always be fused (each accesory with its proper amp fuse...

 

OKay, awesome. I'm following your diagram and helps a lot..thank you.

Now the twist: each seat heater (x2) already has a switch and relay "built" in and the only thing that comes out is a power wire..

 

I'm glad it is helping!

Well, I would just eliminate the switch between the "master relay" and the "accesory relay" and plug your power wire to (85) of the accesory relay...

This way, the relay will transfer power anytime to your seat heater and you will turn it on or off with the included switch

 

It's all clear now. Thanks a lot for the help! Now to find a larger master relay..

 

You don't need a bigger "Master relay", because the other relays use small current...

just check that the heater doesn't exceed 30amps (that's the most common current)...

 

All of the responses here are great, but using a relay for each accessory plus the fus box in my mind sort of defeats the purpose in a way. A MUCH easier way to accomplish this is through the use of a selenoid. It is basically a giant relay that will supply a full 100amps to the fuse box in the form of ignition power but supplied by the battery.

A typical fuse box setup will consist of a 4g power wire from battery to circuit breaker and from breaker to fuse box. This setup will essentially be the same except it will be a power wire from battery to breaker, then breaker to selenoid, and selenoid to fuse block. The selenoid has an in/out like a giant switch and then is triggered by an outside source which will be a single smaller gauge wire connected to the ignition circuit thus acting like an automated switch and only allowing power to supply the fuse box when the ignition is on.

Essentually you could place a small override switch on the selenoid trigger as well which is connected to direct power so that if in the event you want power supplied to the fuse block with the truck off, you can flip the switch and trigger the selenoid to power the block

 

This sounds like an excellent setup! Haven't came across this idea. And definitely will consider it. Seems much simpler and cleaner.

Any inputs/comments regarding this much appreciated!

 

I didnt read this all but seems related and may give you more ideas

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-11755.html

 

So I finally had time to revisit this scenario...and had a question:

Why do we have a "hot" source for both the master relay and accessory relays if they are wired in series?

Keep in mind I just have a +12 wire (x2) going to the seat heaters since the switches are wired part of the kit.