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Wire gauge size for 115v/17 amp motor?

Discussion in 'Off-Topic Discussion' started by 916carl, Mar 5, 2022.

  1. Mar 5, 2022 at 12:41 PM
    #1
    916carl

    916carl [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have this motor I'm going to install on my bandsaw and need to wire a power cable from motor to switch, then switch to plug. A new switch that is rated for 20 amps is needed as well, but I'm not sure of the wiring gauge needed (I'm going to configure it for 115v). Will 12/3 work or do I need 10 gauge?

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  2. Mar 5, 2022 at 1:06 PM
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    Forest Moon

    Forest Moon Well-Known Member

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    If you're wiring it for 120v a 20 amp breaker is too small. You're only allowed to draw 80% of the breaker rating. So 16 amps max on a 20 amp circuit.
    17.2 amps would require a 30 amp breaker. You cannot put 12 gauge wiring behind a 30, so you would need 10 awg.

    If you do 240 volts 12 gauge is fine, under a 2-pole 20 amp circuit breaker.
     
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  3. Mar 5, 2022 at 5:28 PM
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    916carl

    916carl [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well this is turning into a PITA! Lol. So I need to install this breaker, run 12/2 wire to the location of my saw and install a 240v receptacle. The breaker(s) - one will get a black wire, other will get the white (marked as hot), ground to the ground bus bar. Correct? And thanks for the assistance.

    Edit to add - since this will be in a garage, what is the requirements for ground fault?
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  4. Mar 5, 2022 at 6:55 PM
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    Forest Moon

    Forest Moon Well-Known Member

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    Yeah that would work. 2 hots and a grounding conductor is all you need for this circuit. You can feed the receptacle directly off the circuit breaker. No motor starter or any other components required since the motor itself is thermally protected. If you add a switch it has to break both hot conductors(2-pole.)

    GFCI only applies to 120v circuits in your garage so no need to worry about that.

    Good luck.
     
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  5. Mar 5, 2022 at 7:37 PM
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    916carl

    916carl [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Appreciate it. This is the switch I was looking at, and believe this configuration does what you mentioned?

    E6E72B84-D137-4A04-B614-7B29672AC0AE.jpg
    D3CEA028-F6E3-4E58-89C0-42FEC154E482.jpg
     
  6. Mar 5, 2022 at 8:11 PM
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    Forest Moon

    Forest Moon Well-Known Member

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    The diagram looks correct but I was reading some of the reviews. Looks like some people are having trouble mounting that switch to a box. If you go with that one, just know what you're getting into. Check out the customer pics to get an idea of what you need to do to make it work for your application.
     
  7. Mar 5, 2022 at 9:57 PM
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    916carl

    916carl [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I saw that as well. Someone used a 2 gang metal box with a mud ring installed inward. Creative. The box that came with the saw is crap - very thin flexible plastic. And it's mounted low in the stand and on the side, so not convenient. Even before deciding to upgrade the motor I wanted to change it out, but I'm not sure if I'm going to try and relocate it.
     
  8. Mar 7, 2022 at 4:41 PM
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    916carl

    916carl [OP] Well-Known Member

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    OK, plans change, advice taken, new things wanted. The saw is on a mobile base and will be moved around (space issues). The plan is to run 12/3 from the breaker to a wall receptacle in a central location. What I want is to have that receptacle pass through the 2 hot wires (red/black), the neutral and the ground to the saw power cord. When the 12/3 gets to the saw switch, I'll have 2 black wires under the Line In 1 screw. One will be from the power cord coming in, the other going to a 110v receptacle (along with the neutral and a ground). The 110v receptacle is for a magnetic LED light. I'd like to just have one plug to deal with when I move the saw and plug it in. I've read this is permissible (adding a 110v from a 220v source).

    I had a lot of time on a 2 HOUR work zoom call, so I put together a visual to keep myself busy. What I'm stuck with now is - do they make a receptacle that will pass through the 4 wires?




    Wiring.jpg
     
  9. Mar 8, 2022 at 9:35 AM
    #9
    916carl

    916carl [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Made some more changes and think I've got it finalized. The line from the breaker to the saw switch is 4 wires - 220/240. At the saw switch I will use 12/3 romex and take 1 hot leg off the line (pigtail with the hot that is going to Hot 1 In), along with the neutral and ground, to a 20amp receptacle for the light. I'll have power to the light even when the switch if off, as long as the saw power cord is plugged in.




    Wiring.jpg
     

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