Window Run Channel

I'm looking at replacing one of my rear run channels, or what I call 'weather stripping...or moulding.' Has anyone done this before? I'm not sure if that thing's locked in there, but I've tugged on it to no avail. Is it held in by some clips or something? Help appreciated.

Pic is attached...#2 on the diagram.

 

Is there a reason you're replacing that on a brand new truck?

If it's a warranty issue just get the dealer to do it.

 

Not a warranty issue...did the damage myself.

 

Hm. I would still go into the dealer with a print out of that page. Show them the part you want and see if they can get you a part number. It will probably cost a pretty penny, but if you have a part number, you can start looking around online.

Other than that, I haven't seen anyone replace that before. Maybe look through the build threads for the guys that have done a complete tear down. They might be able to help you out. Might even have a left over one they can provide you.

 

Cool...yeah, I got a part number for a '12. I've been all over the internet to try and find the removal procedures. It's not worth ripping the door apart to unclip it (if that's the case)...more cosmetic than anything.

 

Yes, door needs to come apart. Vapour barrier under interior panel will need the butyl sealing bead scribed repeatedly with an exacto knife until you're through to get it off cleanly(unless you want to buy it also).
Remove inner & outer belt line moldings, roll window down & unbolt.
Window run channel guides need unbolted from inside door, force away from center.
Window comes out from outside- force it out of the channel and slide it up & out.
Run channel comes off quite easily... pull from center top, and keep "peeling" it off the pinchweld.

 

Just revisiting this post-- so, ALL THAT needs to happen in order to get the top channel/weather stripping (#2 on diagram) out? What exactly is holding it in? Is it secured to the straight channels on the sides? Thanks again for the feedback!

 

You know, looking at your diagram and looking at my pictures... I guess it doesn't reach in to the door as far as I thought. I couldn't really remember- I was in the zone when I was rippin' it apart to tint the windows! (A year to the day today, btw)

Revised:
Roll window down all the way.
Remove belt molding (molding that seals bottom of window to door) by curling your fingers around the top and putting inward pressure on the surface that faces the outside of the truck with your thumbs. You want to "roll" it out & up off the pinchweld because there are ridges on the inside of that pinchweld that the belt molding grabs. It usually only takes moderate force to get it to let go.
You can then remove the window run by peeling it off the pinchweld, as described previously.
When you install the new one, set one end in place and work it on, guiding the loose end as you go. If it needs repositioned, just slide it on the pinchweld. Use the top corners as your guide as to whether it's in the right place, because the bottom will look right even if it's not

 

Thanks for the details, Whiplash! I'm comparing prices now...and I'm gonna double check that I've got the right part numbers at Toyota. Should get to it this weekend or next. Seems pretty straight forward. The FSM, however, shows you how to disassemble the entire door. I'd love to bypass the belt moulding and pull out the channel run alone. I do NOT work well with those plastic clips...lol.

 

Well, I obviously didn't pull hard enough...it's possible to get the top channel out without removing the belt moulding. I ordered the 2 upper channels (left and right)...will receive them in 2 days.

Background: my rear upper channels were bowing out with the windows all the way up, leaving about 1/8" gap between the top of the rubber and the door. Toyota said it was normal, so I superglued a few spots to the door, to keep it from bowing out. Unfortunately, it now has a "rippled" effect (attached). That bothers me more than the original issue, which really wasn't even an issue. Dumb move on my part, I know. My OCD strikes again!

I'll remove the channels, get the residual adhesive off, touchup with 1G3, and replace the channels. Should be like new by the weekend...

 

Yeah, they don't seal perfectly at the top. But they don't leak, so that's probably why Toyota has made little effort to make them better.
The belt molding is held on to the door with a "J" channel on the inside of the lip it sits on. The sheetmetal has stampings spaced so far apart that the belt molding hooks to (they look like louvres that you'd see on the hood of an old custom, but smaller obviously).
Sometimes you can get it by pulling straight up.
The window run is held down on the bottom corners by the belt molding, so I don't think you'll get it without having it off

 

Yeah, the leaking was my biggest concern...but, like you said, it doesn't happen.

I got the bottoms of the driver side channel out w/o removing the moulding. There are, however, 2 spots on each side where the channel is adhered to the moulding. Seems like those would require a tad bit of adhesive.

My biggest concern now is just getting the glue off without doing too much damage. I'm going to start with a good blade, and maybe try a Mr Clean Magic Eraser. I've got a Dremel in reserve, but would rather not use that...lol. I also got some 1G3 touch-up paint. Wish me luck (in 48 hrs)!

 

Try not to use a blade if you can help it- small scratches now will be rust later. Solvent, magic eraser, or rubber eraser wheel are all I would try.
What did you use to glue them?

 

I've read that a lot of folks have had luck with the Magic Eraser...I'll try that first. I DON'T want to create any rust points...

Used Duro Super Glue.

 

I've never used that before, but after researching it all I can say is YIKES!
I don't think you'll get it all off without taking paint with it... at the very least, there will be a mark that's etched afterwards.
Unless... your truck is a '13, so if they gorped it with paint sealant or some other type of wax before you took delivery, and it ran in there, maybe you can get it to lift right off the paint cleanly if you can get under an edge. I hope for your sake that it works this easily!

 

Thanks...lol. We'll see! I'll post pics...

 

Here 'tis...

 

Not as bad as I thought it would be...

 

lol...Yeah, guess it could be much worse.