Winch power disconnect switch ideas.

I'm trying to determine how I want to install a Winch battery disconnect. In cabin power switch, or just a switch in the engine bay etc.

Just looking for some ideas.

I figure it's a relatively inexpensive safeguard in case a solenoid fails the wrong way or whatever.

 

When I install my wireless winch remote, I'm going to use one of these to switch the low current control power to prevent unintended winching from interfering signals:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/CH4x4-Toyota...ash=item2ca8c97c18:g:C-IAAOSw9mFWJU6O&vxp=mtr

Since my Warn M8000 uses 4 solenoids - 2 for in, 2 for out, that means that 2 solenoids would have to stick closed circuit at the same time for the motor to run after control power is switched off - not very likely! As such, I see no reason to switch the high current circuit with a 4 solenoid setup - but if you have a single "contactor" solenoid with 4 solenoids built into one block, then it would be a good idea.

 

I don't know enough about winches in general and I am motivated by paranoia.

I have the smittybilt X20-10KS I don't know the solenoid configuration on it, I suppose I could open up the solenoid housing and look.
Also, it does have a wireless winch controller, (perhaps flipping the switch to wired when not in use would be another safeguard?)

I've just heard horror stories of solenoids failing and winches setting trucks on fire etc etc.

I really like that button, that would like right at home.

 

I used a Blue Seas HD-Series Battery Switch under the hood. IP66, good up to 600 amps continuous. Its in the off position unless I'm going some place I might use the winch.

 

My winch is on a removable cradle. I have the truck wired with front and rear Warn quick connects. The rear kit comes with a switch and a solenoid for turning off the power. Mine is wired in the cab as pictured. I have a based model, so no power mirrors.

 

Blue Sea e-Series manual switch, always off until we hit the trail. 350A continuous, 600A for 5 minutes. Adequate for my Warn M8000s, might not be enough for your winch.

 

you guys that use the blue sea manual switches, how are you mounting them in?

 

@EDDO pointed me in the right direction. I mounted it to the inside of the left fender. Used existing holes that lined up perfectly. I did have to use a smaller bolt than the existing threads because the bolt head was to large to fit inside the switch. But I put a nut and washer on the backside and all is good.

 

I made a little mounting plate and mounted in the same location as @Longboard1110. His seems like less hassle and there really is no advantage to having it mounted higher. I did hide a relay for my lights up behind the plate, though.

 

My motivation for installing the switch has more to do with safety than anything else. Having an unfused 4 AWG cable wired direct to the battery and run out to the bumper could turn an otherwise survivable accident into a truck fire. The other option would be to relocate the winch control box to a safer location further back under the hood.

 

Get yourself a snow plow solenoid relay. Run a trigger wire to a switch in the cab.
http://www.centralparts.com/snowplo...ed-on-cable-controlled-power-packs-only/1296/

Then you just run a short piece of wire from the battery or distribution panel up to the relay, and the rest of your circuit will be guaranteed off except when the switch is on.

As an added benefit, the relay should basically last forever like this, since it won't be carrying a load while being switched on. That means that it will NEVER arc as it would in a snowplow application, which makes it impossible to weld the contacts together.

 

Why not go with like a 150amp in-line breaker/fuse near the battery? It's inexpensive and a requirement for safety anyway. Just keep it open when not in use and when you need it, just close the circuit and use it. Done and done.

Example for only $10ish: Amazon.com

The closer you put it to the battery the better and something like that can sit a couple inches from the post between the battery and fuse block. I see people run switches or breakers across the engine bay an I cringe at the length that is unfused. It can be dangerous.

 

I ran a large 2/0 power cable from both my battery and winch and used an Anderson connector. Now I can physically disconnect the power from the winch when it's not in use. It's easy to reach in and plug it in, and I do not have to open the hood. The connection that it makes is great, so no need to worry about it disconnecting.





Part for the curious:

$28 X-Haibei Pair Battery Quick Connect 350A 2/0 AWG Wire Harness Plug Kit with Waterproof Caps for 2/0 Gauge Cables, Jumper Cables Connect Disconnect Plug for Car Bike ATV Winches Lifts Motors

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L04A78U

Credit to @SMKYTXN for the idea.

 

Why not 150A fuse? Because it won't work! Here are the specs for an M8000 from Warn:

12V DC PERFORMANCE SPECS
Line Pull Lbs.(Kgs.) Line Speed FT./min(M/min.) Motor Current Pull by layer layer/Lbs(Kgs.)
0 30.2 (9.20) 80 amps 1/8000 (3629)
2000 (910) 14.2(4.33) 200 amps 2/7280 (3302)
4000 (1810) 9.9(3.02) 285 amps 3/6670 (3026)
6000 (2720) 7.3(2.22) 350 amps 4/6230 (2826)
8000 (3630) 4.8(1.46) 435 amps


A disconnect isn't a bad idea to prevent issues in the event of a crash, but not matter what, it is very important to ensure the cables are well secured and protected against rubbing. Same as your high current starter cable, which are never fused BTW. The downside to any disconnect or quick-connect connector is that it will eventually be a cause of high resistance, which equals low voltage to the motor, which = high current = heat which will destroy the winch motor.

 

At full load. Is OP set up to properly supply 435 solid amps? A breaker is there to protect your supply lines and charge system. If you put in a 425amp breaker because that's what the winch is rated at at maximum draw you're putting your entire charge system in danger. That's the purpose of a breaker to protect your charge system components from your accessories. Otherwise, just wire it direct and let the charge system & supply lines start glowing! ROFL

FWIW 12,000lb winches sometimes include 150 amp circuit breakers that aren't even quick-connect. If they popped every single time you used the thing you'd be stranded the first and every time making it pretty worthless. Don't underestimate the ability of a 150 amp quick-connect circuit breaker to cover most everything someone in a Tacoma would ask of it. I have known people who have run 9500 # winches on our size vehicles and needs for years on a 100amp breaker and never had an issue.

IMO a 150 amp breaker is about the limit you want to run on a factory Tacoma charge system. You might be alright with like a 200amp but you're getting awfully close to the limits of the stock charge system which now makes the inexpensive part designed to protect those components (the breaker) less likely to open the circuit when things are getting dangerous on your charge system.

If you plan to winch your 3500 GM straight up into the air several feet you may need to re-evaluate your entire supply line. We're talking about winching a Tacoma that's stuck here.

 

Your charging system isn't what's supplying your winch with power. It will help the battery, sure, but that's it. And yes, unless someone has downgraded below specs of the OEM battery, 550 amps are available from the battery at 0 degrees F, and substantially more as temperatures increase. Add up to 130A from the alternator, and your 200A or less fuse or breaker will blow if actually worked anywhere near rated capacity. I'm not talking about spooling line onto the winch no load here.

 

I'll be sure to tell the guys who have deployed their 9,500lb winches dozens of times per year to dislodge vehicles similar weight to ours for years now that what they're doing won't work. It should be noted that I have a 12,000lb winch running that exact quick-connect breaker and haven't yet had an issue. Admittedly I have been running this setup recent enough that I don't personally consider it battle tested long enough to be definitive proof as compared to the other fellas I mentioned. I know that 1) it works just fine and seems to have more headroom than I will ever need and 2) if anything, I'm erring on the side of safety and my otherwise stock system will be happy and safe whenever I use it.

Also, your battery's cranking amps are meant for turning over your engine. How long does that take? If you plan to winch your truck for a second or two you can apply those exact figures to this situation too. Otherwise, you're going to have issues. Your battery is only going to be able to supply that much juice for a limited period with the thin plates meant for rapid supply before you're up against the alternator limits.

 

I had a winch power issue a couple months ago so I went ahead and put in a manual disconnect. The one I put in was a BlueSea HD-Series 3001



https://www.bluesea.com/products/3001/HD-Series_Heavy_Duty_On-Off_Battery_Switch_with_AFD

Amazon Link

$72 Blue Sea Systems 3001 Heavy Duty Battery Switch with Alternator Field Disconnect, On-Off, Beige

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Alternator-Disconnect/dp/B000THRMOG

 

Now you got me thinking about an upgrade.

 

Ignore everything I said in these posts... I was wrong! (I know, I know... stop the presses because it doesn't happen very often)

I wanted to return to warn everyone that my advice and while it worked fine for me to the point of my posts yesterday it didn't. As many know we had some snow in Colorado and I had to pull the wife out of a snow drift and the 150 amp breaker failed me. Several times. In fact it finally stuck in the open position so I wasn't able to use it to complete the recovery. It could be a faulty cheap breaker but either way, it failed when I needed it.

Fortunately I grabbed a standard tow rope (along with shovels and other things) before heading out so I was able to pull her out the old fashioned way but if you're up in the hills by yourself or lives depended on it my solution is flawed. I will either be ordering up a new breaker 300amp or higher or one of this cut-off switches today to prevent this sort of thing from happening again. I just wanted to come back to admit that my solution failed and hopefully prevent others from making the same mistake or getting stranded. Being in 20deg weather with it snowing inches per hour and the wind coming in 50mph sideways and whiteout conditions isn't the time to find out you have a weak link in your chain. At least I found it out a half mile from home and not up in the Rocky Mountains by myself or something a little less ideal.

tldr; don't run a 150amp breaker on your 12,000lb winch because while it may for most of the time the one time it won't will be when you need it.