White spots stuck on paint after waxing help??

So, last weekend i decided to clay bar and wax my truck since it has been a year without a proper wax job. Anyway, this weekend after washing my truck, i noticed little white spots all over my truck and when i was drying the vehicle the microfiber towel was making a rough scraping noise. It appears to be stuck on dry wax that I tried to wipe off with little luck.

Does anyone know how to remove this? I really am trying to stay away from detailing clay because it kinda scratched the finish when I did it. I wasn't too worried about it since it looked great after waxing.

Also, its not too bad looking so would dried on wax hurt the finish if i just leave it on and maybe it'll just come off over time? I'm upset that after less than a year off ownership, this truck looks and feels the way it does.

Any help with getting it back to new would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

PS: I bought the paint sealant package from Toyota when I purchased the truck. Is there any way that they could help me with this issue? It was like 500 bucks and I didn't get any kind of wax or sealant products from them on day of purchase.

 

Nano skin towel maybe. If it's wax try wiping it at the hottest part of the day.

If it was mine I would clay bar it and use a synthetic wax.

 

It sounds like dried wax. If that's the case, after you wash it next time just remove with a microfiber towel.

 

An old body man showed me this trick..... Take one of those plastic things that is used to keep your bread closed, rub it across the spot. If it's something on top of the paint you will feel it and can usually scrape it off with the bread tie. If it doesn't catch on it, you know that its inside the paint or a stain. This guy used to to buy those bread things by the hundred and use them for stuff like this all the time.

I too have an odd thing going on with the paint on my '14 super white Tacoma. Every once in a while I get these weird foggy looking marks on my drivers side front and rear door, and another splotch on the passenger side door. It almost looks like someone had scratched a wavy line across both doors on the drivers side and rubbed it out leaving a mark similar to one where someone rubbed through the clear coat. Knowing that super white vehicles have no clear coat, I'm not sure what it is. If I wax the truck or use a cleaner wax, the mark goes away for months. Eventually it shows up again in the same spot. The mark looks like paint that has gone flat and has no shine in the form of a weird line across both doors. It doesn't hurt anything, it's just a maintenance thing every once in a while.

 

I thought clear coat was mixed in with the paint?

 

From what I understand, super white and maybe silver are just one stage paint jobs with clear mixed in. That is in comparison to a two stage paint job that is color then covered with clear.

 

If you are like me, and you take very good care of your vehicles... you may want to visit this site. Read up, ask questions, and buy some quality detailing supplies. I learned a lot there, and keep my cars looking great with stuff I bought from that site.

http://www.detailedimage.com/?gclid=CLbQnuLC-80CFQtsfgodWKMBRw

 

When done properly, clay bar will not hurt the painted or glass surfaces of your truck.
If you were getting scratches on your finish then you probably didn't either wash the truck well enough before clay barring or you didn't use a clay bar lube/enough lube.

I would wash the truck well using the two bucket method. Get a good clay bar kit that comes with a detailer/lube. Then clay bar the truck to remove all surface contaminants.

You should not wax your vehicle without first clay barring. This is ten fold with a black vehicle. Black shows any flaws in paint like nuts, so extra car must be taken to keep it looking nice.

If after using the clay bar you have scratches/marring/swirls I would hit it with a good polish and a DA polisher.

If the paint damage is significant you likely want to cruise the detailing section and figure out how/what you are doing to mistreat the paint. Hopefully what you are unhappy about is just the residual wax left over and not any paint imperfections/damage.

I use a liquid carnuba wax. In the past I made an epic mess of my trucks trying to use a cheap paste wax like TurtleWax. Never again. The liquid carnuba waxes go on so much easier and don't make a mess. Although you still need to avoid the black trim as it can stain those parts.

 

Good advice PackCon.


Only thing I would add when it comes to the clay sounding like its scratching the surface is to fold and re-mold the clay and try again. Keep in mind when claying, the clay itself is pulling up dirt/debris our eyes don't catch so after doing your hood for example, its best to take the clay in your hand and turn it into a ball and then flatten it out again. This will help trap dirt/debris in the clay itself keeping it from scraping the paint. If after doing this and the clay still looks dirty or you can feel debris in the clay with your fingers, stop and throw that clay away and use a new piece.

If you purchased the Meguiar's or Mother's clay kits from your local parts store, they usually come with two bars of clay. Start out by using just a small amount of the bar it came with and if it gets too dirty; just discard it and get a new piece. No need to use the entire piece all at once. Finally, use that spray it comes with very liberally as in .... use a lot of it.

 

Agree with the others, clay bar your truck.

But you did drop $500, I would inquire with the dealer at the very least as to what that includes.

 

Hello,
1) a Clay bar should have never scratched your paint unless your are using a dirty clay bar or a clay bar without lube. You don't need any special type of lube when you use a clay bar. I have been doing this for years and I learned that using your normal wash soap will work perfectly fine.
2) regarding the dryed on way, the easiest way to remove wax is with a solution of dawn and water or a 50/50 blend of isopropyl alcohol and water.
3) regarding if the dry wax would hurt your paint, not but it doesn't look good so why leave it on there.
4) Regarding the paint sealant package, if you purchased this this would be applied by the dealer, you would not get anything to apply your self from the dealer.
5) Paint sealants are still a big question throughout the automotive detailing industry, there are ceramic paint sealants and there are nano paint sealants. These are suppose to be very hard and very durable but they only last 6 month to a year.
6) I would never want a dealer to apply a paint sealant or even wash or wax my car. I have seen so many cars come back from dealers with surface scratches and swirl marks as the people who do this work at dealers have no idea what they are doing.
7) As soon as you buy a new car I would not let a dealer wax the car until the car has been properly cleaned and clay bared to to remove all transportation contaminates including rail rust if the car or truck was transported on a train.
8) regarding single stage or two stage paints the only color toyota paints as a single stage is white.

Now onto how to get your car looking its best.

1) you really need to find out if the dealer applies the paint sealant as this is a durable coating that must be removed before you can polish the vehicle properly.
2) If a paint sealant was applied ask the dealer what can be used to remove it.
3) After Paint Sealant is removed wash and clay bar the car completely. (Note: After this is done you should be able to put a zip lock bag on you hand and run it over the paint without any drag at all.
4) Now onto the fun part Compounding and polishing your paint. Note you only need to compound the paint if you have oxidation, scratches or swirl marks.

Items need to Compound and Polish the paint.

• DA Polisher
• Meguiars DA Microfiber Correction System
• microfiber towels

5) Compounding & Polishing: Goto youtube and watch the videos on the Meguiars DA Microfiber Correction System) Trust me it is the easiest system you will ever use and it works great.

6) Apply a thin coat of a high quality wax. Remember you only want to apply a thin coat.

Note: never work in a area larger then 2' x 2' when you are compounding, polishing, sealing or waxing a car unless you know the product has a very long open time.

If you have any questions please let me know and i will try and help you any way I can.