Which setup would you choose? Focal / Hertz & AudioControl Amp

Aloha,
I am in the process of planning my 3rd gen tacoma audio upgrade. It is a non-JBL system, and I'm looking for high-quality sound and the ability to hold it at high volumes. I don't need a ton of bass for the type of music I listen to and am not looking to rattle my truck apart. The subwoofer setup I end up installing will be just to fill in some bass. The following is the system I am considering and am looking for help in swaying my decision on how to set my system up with the different channel options available.

Overall, I plan on spending about what I would doing the OEM Audio+ kit, but doing it myself with high-end products. *roughly $2-$3k total

Front Component set:
Focal ES 165K (4 ohm - 100 RMS) $850 or Hertz MLK 165.3 (4 ohm - 150 RMS) $800. I am undecided between these two speakers, I like the power handling of the Hertz, but there seems to be more popularity with the Focals. I believe either will sound great.
Amplifier / DSP combination:
AudioControl D-6.1200 / This is a 6 channel DSP amp that puts out 125W RMS @ 6 channels or 400W RMS @ 3 Channels. $1,100. I've heard that this company puts out high-quality stuff and like the price and simplicity of a combined unit versus a $600 DSP and another high-end amp. *DSP is required because I am not giving up my factory 8" head unit.
Rear Speakers:
Decent coaxials, that will pair decently with either the Focals or Hertz (undecided). Or just a rear speaker delete. Expecting to pay about $200-500
Subwoofer:
Either a single 12" or single 10" amp behind drivers rear seat in enclosure. (Not worried about the subwoofer yet) Expecting to pay about $300-600

Here are the options I am considering:

Option 1: Active setup with external sub power
Channel 1 & 2: Active front tweeters (125w RMS)
Channel 3 & 4: Active 6.5 woofers (125w RMS)
Channel 5 & 6: Rear coaxial speakers (125w RMS)
DSP sending signal to external sub amp
*More expensive with 2nd amp, more adjustability to active front stage, too much power to tweeters? risk of damaging tweeters if I mess up settings?

Option 2: Passive setup with external sub power
Channel 1/2 & 3/4: Bridged front component stage (400w RMS)
Channel 5 & 6: Rear coaxial speakers (125w RMS)
DSP sending signal to external sub amp
*More expensive with 2nd amp, less adjustability but tons of power to front stage

Option 3: Rear speaker delete bridged
Channel 1/2 & 3/4: Bridged entire front component stage (400w RMS)
Channel 5 & 6: Single subwoofer (400w RMS)
*Easy install, enough power for subwoofer and tons of power for front stage, loss of active control, no rear stage, cheapest with no extra amp or rear speakers

Option 4: Rear speaker delete active
Channel 1 & 2: Active front tweeters (125w RMS)
Channel 3 & 4: Active 6.5 woofers (125w RMS)
Channel 5 & 6: Single subwoofer (400w RMS)
*Easy install, adjustability with DSP, no rear stage, cheapest no extra amp or rear speakers

I'm leaning towards Option 4: The cost of adding rear coaxials that can keep up with the front stage seems to be a waste of money with no much return. I also will get to maximize the use of features with my expensive DSP amp, being able to digitally adjust the active frequencies to the tweeters and 6.5 woofers. I will be having plenty of power going to the front stage as well (I think) and won't be overloading the amp. Am I crazy, or actually making sense here?

What makes the most sense to you?​

-Tyler

 

I keep changing my mind... sorry.

#4. You hit it on the money, use the 1st four channels to push the fronts, 5 and 6 for subs, time align, x-overs and everything. You have plenty of options on subs with that power, but i like the Steathboxes for our trucks.

If you're not set on the D-6.1200. Maybe look at the JL VXis. You can get a 6 channel with an additional output to control the sub through the processor. I think the D-6.1200 also has the ability to do that, I just haven't used one before, but they look like overall solid amps. Plus then you have the flexibility if you decide to add rears, you can change channels 5 and 6 for rear fill, hook up a sub amp and i can still be controlled through processor.

As for front components, you can't go wrong with either. The Focals tend to be a bit brighter than the Hertz, but it comes down to preference. I've had both predecessors of both of those components you're looking at. I prefer the Focal, but the Hertz were definitely a smoother overall sound.

 

Thanks for the great feedback. I looked into the JL DSP amps and read that the software is not as well done as with the AudioControl systems. The AudioControl does still have output from the processer for a sub even if that sub is not powered by the same amp. I like this plan too because I can always add more if I think the system needs it.

I have been watching videos on how to setup the AudioControl DSP setting through the software/ app and it looks simple. I am a complete novice though, so I want to be careful with running an active setup to ensure I don't ruin the tweeters during setup. I haven't seen a solid answer on this, but it looks like I can easily run an active setup without any crossovers. The frequencies will be split completely digitally through the DSP (unless I'm missing something).

 

Correct. That’s the definition of active setup. No passive crossovers. The passive crossovers have capictors and what not that will filter out frequency. Active is all done though DSP.

You set a high pass at 2K or so, depending on the spec sheet.

Bandpass the woofer, you set a low pass filter below where you set tweeter, and high pass above the subwoofer.

Low pass the sub. Ultimately, you don’t want signal for tweets going through sub and vice versa.

 

I would go option 1, but instead of the d1200.6, get the lc1200.6 and a lc800.1 Then get signal from a DM-608. You will have more flexibility here and more power for your subwoofer.

Im running a similar setup, but with 3 way active front speakers.

ACM 4.300 -> tweeters and midrange speakers
ACM 4.300 -> front woofers and rear speakers
ACM 1.300 -> Subwoofer
DM-810 -> feeding 10 channels into the amps.

Each individual speaker is time aligned and adjusted to be perfect. Im not using top tier speakers, but they are pretty good.

 

First off, opinions are like assholes, everybody has them. Second, you can spend endless amounts on car audio. I was in a similar situation like you. If I remember correctly, you put in a set of morel 692’s recently and I commented on that cuz I have the morel 602’s (stock HU, non JBL, D6.1200 amp) and I wish I would’ve gotten the 692’s instead (Crutchfield said they wouldn’t fit). I’m a novice and I read through a ton of reviews on focal, Hertz and morel. What do I get? The morels weren’t cutting it, I wasn’t happy. Then, I decided to get a rta, audiofrog umi-1, and started playing around on REW. I watched YouTube videos on the software, read tutorials in the help section, and I read Andy’s posts and this changed everything. What I’ve learned so far. Go 3 way components if your willing to do some cutting and modding to install them, technically, they would sound better. How much better? I can’t imagine and would labor be worth it? I don’t know. Basically with a 3 way, it’s easier to tune to a house curve but you’d also need a DSP that changes the q value to target specific frequencies that you may have problems with and frequencies on the crossover points. This, on top of all the features the d6.1200 provides. Your ears would also have to be atuned to be able to differentiate certain and groups of frequencies. This would only come from lots of experience and knowledge. Also, it depends on your music source. Do you play a lot of cd’s and flac files or do you primarily stream music? Then it wouldn’t matter cuz it’s bandwidth limited (streamed music). When you learn how to tune with an rta, and graph different house curves, you can make your system sound however you want it to. It really makes a difference! All house curves sound great but you’ll find one that really suits you. I’ve tuned my Ultra Tempo 602’s and now I love them! When I thought about focals, everyone says they’re bright tweeters and I wouldn’t know if I’d like it or not. I found out that I wouldn’t like bright tweeters when I was stuck in SoCal traffic for over 2 hrs and I had my system blasting the whole time. I realized that my ears weren’t fatigued, to where I had to turn it down. The morel tweeters are detailed and smooth. Active or passive? If you gotta ask, chances are, you wouldn’t be able to tell the difference. Most people wouldn’t. For rear fills, I just use the stock speakers for now being powered of channel 3/4. I have the Integra 602’s but I haven’t put them in yet. I don’t think I need them. Just thinking all the prep work I’ve done to the front doors, makes me want to put off doing that work for another time. I also have a a JL 10tw3 d8 sub with a box built by mr marv and I haven’t had the time to put it in yet cuz I’d have to dynamat the rear cab wall. I temporarily have a 8” shallow sub in a sealed downfiring box, loaned to me, behind the driver seat on the floor. It takes up very little space and I don’t regularly have backseat passengers. I’m really happy with it. It provides all the bass I need to round out the frequencies. Don’t get me wrong, it thumps. When tuned to the system, the bass feels like it coming from the front. My whole point is, you’ll know what to put in there, if you know what the end result you’re looking for. I started on this journey when I first read about the $250 system upgrade that was posted here. I started with that and I wasn’t happy. All I wanted was for my system to be louder, more detailed and balanced. Then, I bought a lot of stuff from Crutchfield and returned a lot of stuff thinking I could make my system sound just as good as the oem audio plus, for a lot cheaper. I haven’t personally sat in a taco that has one to listen to but, I can’t imagine it sounding better than what I ended up with. Actually, mine would sound better to me cuz it’s tuned specifically for me. I could spend a shit ton more on audio, if I wanted to, but I feel that I don’t have to! Hope this helps. Otherwise, go with the most expensive option you’re willing to do if that would provide you with assurance to make a decision.

 

You can download and play with the JL TuN software to see if it's something you are interested in. I like the flexibility of an external DSP as well. The best reason to go with an integrated DSP/Amp is to save space, and the trade off is the same as going with a 5 channel amplifier, an all in one solution leaves you vulnerable to one component failure disabling your entire system. I really like the JL DSP, but I'm sure the Audio Control is just as nice. I partly went with the JL because I already had a JL amplifier that I think is a really great product.

In the case of a bi-amp front, a 5 or 6 channel amplifier will have the same power output on all of the door speaker channels, but you don't need most of the power going to the tweeters because (1) they can't usually handle the same power as its component woofer and (2) you're crossing tweeters over at around 3kHz where the least amount of power is required for the perception of equal loudness for those frequencies compared to the rest of the spectrum. This is the reason I went with a separate tweeter amplifier when I went bi-amp (I already had a 5 channel installed). You really just want a high quality amplifier for tweeters, you won't need most of the power you end up with in a multi-channel amplifier.

So, if I was going to start over, I'd probably do something more like what @5nahalf did except probably not 3-way (for convenience mostly):

What I ended up doing was running a 2 channel ACM amplifier for the front tweeters, then used the four door channels on my 5 channel amp to run the front woofers, and the rear two doors. Having a separate DSP made this very easy to do.

My personal preference in speakers is Hertz, either Mille or Energy, depending on your budget. You can buy them as separate components and end up not paying for the crossover included in a component system. You can opt for the higher end Mille woofer to get tighter tolerances and a little more power handling, or for the Energy line you get a little more low end.

https://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/car-audio-woofers-mille-pro-mp165p-3/

https://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/car-audio-woofers-energy-ev165l-5/

So for your situation what I recommend is going with a setup that gives you what you want right now, with the ability to add in the rear doors later. If you plan it out, you can get a separate 2 channel amplifier in the future, switch your tweeters over to that, and enable the rear doors on your existing multi-channel amplifier. For this reason I like Option 4 with tweaks.

 

I would go option 1 and I would spend some time and money on sound deadnkng the truck!

 

And we are a focal, audison/hertz dealer and I like both the only focals o would buy are the flax line or utopia m. And from hertz anything from high energy up is solid!