Where NOT to use anti-seize compound....?

I use anti-seize compound on almost every bolt or component I come in contact with during a project. Where shouldn't it be used? As an example, I've used it on the tapered section of a tie rod end where that seats into a steering knuckle without issue in the past. Maybe that's not the correct thing to do....?

 

I see you live in NY.
put it everywhere.
But seriously, I would put it anywhere that doesn't require grease or threadlocker.

 

In the past using it has paid huge dividends when I had to revisit a repair and remove a component without issue. Rust/seized parts & fasteners can make a relatively simple repair a major PITA and turn it into a nightmare....

 

This!

 

I would respectfully submit that is NOT always the best approach. I'm a big fan of anti-seize, but there are plenty of places where it's NOT appropriate. The biggest one being on any fastener with a critical torque value, such as a head bolt. There's plenty who say not to use it on spark plugs either, but as long as you account for the reduced friction (generally approximate a 15% reduction in torque) when tightening something like a spark plug, you should be good.

 

Thats kind of my "Seat of the pants" approach as well. Lug nuts, internal engine components, drive shaft flange bolts, stuff like that doesnt get anti seize. Also anything with nyloc nuts

 

I should have been more specific. I agree, the use of anti-seize in critical engine components and some other parts are in the book of NO. I use it on most anything that is exposed to the elements with the exception of lug nuts.

 

To your original point, I do not use it on things like tie rod end shanks.

 

I use it when the metals are not the same, ie aluminum block with a steel bolt.

I do use it on parts that like to seize, example spark plugs, Diff/Xfer case plugs, infrequent repair fasteners. Just need to reduce the torque levels to the "lubricated" values instead of the "Dry" values.

I don't use it on Nylock type or thread locker applications or threads in plastic.

Nutshell guide. Areas prone to heat cycles (copper base), corrosion, dissimilar metals. Remember...... a little is enough. No need to Rembrandt the threads.

 

This isn’t exactly what I was going to say, but very very similar. If you use anti-seize compound on a bolt that wasn't factory-installed with anti-seize, and has a torque value assigned, then that torque value no longer applies. Were any of the bolts factory installed with anti-seize? I don’t know and I don’t know which, but for those if they exist, in theory, if you use the same anti-seize product, then the torque value would remain the same. Spark plugs too obviously, as you alluded to.

 

I use it on pretty much everything suspension wise.

I typically use penetrating oil on engine and trans bolts.

The big one is not to use antiseize on certain CV axle joints/wheel bearings. It sprays inside and contaminates the ABS sensor.

I use it on the splines and threads, but not the butt end.

 

Great info! A thought just crossed my mind (it happens from time to time). If one was to dry install a bolt to a factory torque value, doing so would be predicated on the threads being "pristine" and lacking any corrosion or any other defects. If time permits, I like to chase the threads to clean them out. It maybe minor, but it's another variable in the equation.....

 

Agree, if its pristine you should back the torque down if lubed. Especially on small bolts or nuts.

 

Threaded fasteners that require multiple removals and installs. i.e. lug nut bolts. After two to three services never seize start congeal, thicken and bind the lug nuts to the studs. I use a drop or two of marvel mystery oil. Also any torque spec fastener should never have never seize applied. This coming from a 30 year+ auto tech who lives in the Adirondacks.

 

Another caveat, how is it that despite my judicious use of anti-seize compound, it manages to get everywhere?

 

I use it where the wheels contact the hubs or the drums (a very light coating). It seems like it makes them easier to remove, maybe minimizing galvanic corrosion.

 

I use a bit of bearing grease (light film) between the wheels and the hubs. Galvanic corrosion likes to "weld" the wheel to the hub.

I have used extreme measures to separate wheels from hubs. Lugs nuts unscrewed to just clear wheel, off jack, roll forward/backward, slam brake, jack up car, continue work task. Dangerous as all get out. Clean hub with wire wheel, clean wheel to remove corrosion, apply light film of bearing grease, clean studs, install wheel.

 

I know exactly what you are talking about. It's like a chemical reaction between the metals. It happen between lug nut face and wheel stud holes also. What a bitch. I have had to torch cut or drill out lug nuts.

 

Galvanic corrosion refers to corrosion damage induced when two dissimilar materials are coupled in a corrosive electrolyte. It occurs when two (or more) dissimilar metals are brought into electrical contact under water.

Dissimilar metals and alloys have different electrode potentials, and when two or more come into contact in an electrolyte, one metal (that's more reactive) acts as anode and the other (that's less reactive) as cathode. The electropotential difference between the reactions at the two electrodes is the driving force for an accelerated attack on the anode metal, which dissolves into the electrolyte. This leads to the metal at the anode corroding more quickly than it otherwise would and corrosion at the cathode being inhibited. The presence of an electrolyte and an electrical conducting path between the metals is essential for galvanic corrosion to occur.

 

Have you checked your ears? It's probably in there too! I have the same issue. I use it almost everywhere as well, unless the thread needs loctite. On any thread that tends to gall, like spark plugs going into an aluminum head, you get more consistent torque with it than without it.