Where’s power window relay??

2005 Toyota Tacoma 4 wd 6 cyl 4 door.

all windows stopped working from the driver switches and from each door.

since none work I suspect pw relay, but I don’t find it in interior fuse box or engine fuse box. I even removed driver kick plate.

googled and you-tubed it all day-nothing.
need help!!!

 

Yeah, that one isn’t “easy” to get to.
It’s on the back side of the inner fuse box.
I believe it’s the blue one in the middle. But I’m not 100% certain.
Double check it.

 

Omg!

 

Before you pull all that apart.
See if your tail lights work. Not your brake lights. Your tail lights.
(Head lights on, check rear tail lights).

It might be the big 50A fuse.

The door locks work off the same fuse, so you could check that too.

 

I guess I don’t feel like such a moron (maybe a little bit!). Thank you so much.

couple of days before the windows stopped working, I was having a problem with the driver door lock switch,though the passenger side works fine.

Could the door lock switch failure followed by the window operation failing indicate all the problems are caused by a bad master switch. Would a bad master switch disable to other 3 windows?

 

Yes, it could very well be a bad master switch.
All ground for all the windows go through the switch.

 

Great idea. Tail lights work.

 

Do the door locks work from the passenger side?

 

Yes

 

If you pull the master switch out. (Window connector)
You will see a red wire, and white/black wire.
Red is power, white/black is ground.

If you got power and ground, it’s probably the master switch.

 

When I hook red from multi-meter to red wire and black to black and turn ignition on, the dial on the multi-meter jumps to 1.0 with the multimeter set at 200m.

I also pulled the 30 amp fuse and it test good for continuity

 

Check for voltage. Set it to DC voltage.

Red lead on meter to red wire.
Black lead on meter to white/black.

 

I had it on DC on the 200 mA setting and the dial went from essentially 0 up to about 1.0 when I turned power on with key.

auto parts store master switch is $200+, but I see several at $25-35 on Amazon. I can’t thank you enough for your help.

 

Yeah, you don’t want to check it using ma.
You want voltage.
It’s probably the switch, but I always like to confirm a part is bad before buying new.

Setting #3 (V with - over top)
Black lead in COM
And Red lead in 14

 

I had it set to measure DC volts and it was set at 200 millivolts (that I mid-described as milli amps)

 

I didn’t find a white/blue wire nor a white/black as the manual illustrates,so I put the red probe on the red wire of the switch and connected the black probe to the frame.

the meter indicated about 14 volts dc.

I received a new after market switch and hooked it up,but it didn’t work either. In case I received a bad switch the company is shipping me another one.

any ideas?

 

Since i found that there is power at the wiring connector,could there be a short in wiring going to the other 3 switches that is disabling all the switches in the vehicle-including the master switch?

 

You need to check your ground connection.
I’ll try to pull up a diagram.

 

I knew this sounds familiar.
Here is a link that I went through with someone else.
It basically takes you step by step.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/second-gen-power-window-switch-wires.786021/

 

BTW, you really need to locate the White/Black wire
We need to test it.

The wire is NOT white/BLUE.

It is White/BLACK.