When do you upgrade your control arms?

Ive been on a kick lately of dumping money into my old tacoma! 2001 2.7L 4x4. Did the 5100's on the highest setting, going to do a diff drop , progressive add a leaf on new General Spring HD's in the back with 5100's. I notice alot of folks upgrade their control arms. How high a lift are new control arms needed for? Can see myself going more than 31" tires.

Thanks!!

 

You probably already need Them with 5100s on the highest setting.

There’s no magic lift number, the whole point of UCAs is to get your alignment numbers back in spec. As you lift more you loose caster. If your alignment numbers are good then don’t worry about it. If your caster is low and the truck feels like it’s wandering on the road you probably could use UCAs.

 

I drove for a year on stock UCAs on about 2-2.5" lift and while tolerable it wasn't very fun. Truck liked to wander all over the road with no caster.

 

You need them once you can get proper alignment.

Since you lifted your vehicle already, it's safe to assume your truck aligned well; you need to get an alignment immediately after getting a lift so you don't to killing your tires prematurely.

 

Coincidentally I went and got an alignment, I think it was pulling left a bit but the steering wheel seemed very straight. I dont notice wandering. Here is the report, I have no idea how to read it!

 

I change my control arms When they get to the point they are so rusted after the 3rd time of welding them time for new.

 

How do the bushings look by the time that happens?

 

They bushings have been replaced every time the Control arms were removed as well as the upper ball joints

I keep cam bolt hardware most often they need cut off.

 

Which control arms? uppers or lowers?

Uppers: No need to "upgrade" unles a) you just want to spend $500-800, or you are having issues getting your truck aligned after lifting it more than 2 or so inches.

Lowers: No need unless you're doing long travel (NOT mid/extended travel) or your LCAs are bent, rusty or otherwise damaged.

If you need bushings, just get bushings. Most shops try to sell you whole new arms because they are quicker to install, and YOU pay the increased cost in parts.

 

No idea what I need if anything, there are my alignment specs in the photo after I put my front shocks at the highest setting which is a 2.5" lift. Unfortunately I cant read how well the truck got aligned since I dont know anything about alignment. The shop didnt say they had any problems though. Can someone interpret? I thought if it cant be aligned properly then new upper control arms are needed due to the lift.

I dont think Im the type to crawl over large boulders if thats what you mean. This truck is going to just see some trails that might get a little hairy..

 

Green = good. The Actual" column is what the result of the alignment was. It's odd they didn't say anything since the front left is still out of spec. Take it back and have them correct it.

Don't but into the crap where you need "more castor" or whatever with a lift. All you need is the stock alignment specs. The new UCAs allow more castor adjustment, but that's only to counteract the lifted geometry. The end result should still be the factory numbers.

If they can't get it aligned back into factory specs, that's a sign you may need new upper control arms. Generally speaking 2.5" of lift is right at the edge where people start needing UCAs.

 

I would hate it if I had to drive my truck with those specs. Caster is very low.

Stock you would have at least 2° of positive caster but because of the lift you've added, that is no longer attainable. Also, I would not be surprised if the upper tip of your spindle or the inner part of the UCA isn't hitting the coil spring at full droop.

Aftermarket UCAs will help this issue. Most brands offer a way to add in +2° of caster right into their design.

 

Ok two things, what is cross caster?
What is full droop? Just from the name Im assuming its when my wheel drops to the lowest point it can? Even though Ive had this truck 16 years im only now getting into this off roading stuff.

 

Yes. Full droop happens when the shock is fully extended. You can check this by jacking the front wheels up off the ground.

 

This looks like a good deal. Im assuming this would fix the caster problem?
https://jbaoffroad.com/jba-std-high-caster-upper-a-arms-for-toyota-tacoma-1996-2004.html