Wheel Bearing Replacement Advice

I just got my maryland safety inspection on my '06 (163000 miles) done and they failed me because my front left wheel bearing is loose. It definitely is but I have a few questions.

1. I have limited tool access at school. I have jack and jack stands and a basic wrench/ratchet set. Can i even do this on my own?

2. If I can't is this a part that i should make sure gets replaced with an OEM part? or does it matter?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OR8Y9wWxZqQ

May be helpful.

There's someone that sells the assembly as a whole unit on here. Can't seem to find it rn tho

 

Is a 35mm socket part of your basic tool set? Axle nut, I believe, is 35mm.
I feel with a basic tool set there will be many knuckle busters and F bombs thrown around but it's doable.

 

Here found it:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-bearings-hubs-press-service-4x4.537080/

 

You need the big 35mm socket for the axle shaft nut and a torque wrench that goes to 175#'s to properly torque it. I recently did one on my '15 Taco in the driveway in about 1.5 hrs. I used a Carquest hubset unit, as there were only a few options for parts around where I live. The local stealership would have taken 2 days to get on.

 

This is also something your local national brand Auto Parts store should rent you

 

There is only 7 bolts and 1 nut you need to remove and it is easy to do.

Unbolt the ABS sensor x1 , caliper bolts x2, Axle nut x1, then the 4 bolts holding the hub assembly to the knuckle. If you want a prebuilt assembly you can get them on rock auto. The SKF brand is well known and a reputable brand.

 

This has all info you need.

 

Yup

 

Does it being 4wd complicate things at all? also here's the part I'm looking at right now. Does that look right?

 

It being 4WD doesn’t complicate it at all.
That part linked, looks correct.

 

It doesn’t complicate things but I did make the mistake of not seating my CV axle correctly in the new hub assembly the first try when I did mine. Caught it as I was tightening the axle nut, just something to think of.

 

You may want an 1/2” impact gun to help get the caliper bolts off. These are likely to have a lot of rust on a 2006 truck. The 35 mm nut is behind a metal cap so should not have rust but impact gun will help here for removal. Per link you included, only use impact gun to loosen and not tighten bolts.

Other thing you need is a small chisel or sacrificial screwdriver to pry off the metal cap over the 35 mm nut and a rubber mallet to reinstall. It’s thin material so don’t get too aggressive with it or you’ll be back at parts place for a replacement cap.

 

I don't think I'd trust a $60 hub and bearing. I'd recommend the hub and bearing set sold by the TW member. All quality parts.

 

Go to rockauto.com and buy the skf brand, already comes assembled with hub so all u do is r/r and its only like around $110

 

Anybody have any experience with Bluepit bearings?

-J

 

Yup rock auto place to be

 

Agree 100%

 

seems like the consensus is the SKF brand. I found this part ($96)

i also found this DORMAN part ($116)

and this WJB part ($114)

can I go wrong with any of these? do I get what I pay for?

 

Also would you all recommend replacing both front bearings? I assume if the driver side is gone the passenger cant be too far behind.