Wheel bearing hub torque

In a jam .can't find the 4 bolt torque spec for front wheel bearing assembly. I know axle nut is 173ftlbs

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/
And the axle nut is 147 ft lbs I believe. (Correction, I read it wrong, 173)

 

Axel nut torque is the important one, make sure to actually torque it to 173 -175 lb ft with a good torque wrench. The hub bolts can be treated like the brake calipers bolts, snug them up if crow foot wrenches aren’t available.

 

Thank you. Yea I couldn't pull up those charts last night on my phone. And I do work at my storage center, so no computer. Thanks for the help. Got it done

 

Thank you.

 

LOL. Yea so my crows feet wouldn't pass the hub anyway, so I just torqued them to feel.

 

Anyone know the torque specs to the nut that goes on the hub after you've pressed it in the wheel bearing? The round one with 4 holes? I installed one before without knowing the torque and don't want to over load the preload on this new bearing....

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/

 

Very difficult to torque. You have to use an extension and do the math for the extension.

I use a long 17mm wrench and go over them multiple times.

 

That's the wrong nut I'm talking about this one

 

has anybody been successful torquing their axle nut to “good enough”

my 1/2 torque wrench only goes to 150 ft lb
Spec is 173
So I set it to 150, clicked it, then gave more pressure of what feels good

hoping I don’t have to go back in there with another better torque wrench and re do my SpiderTrax all over again

I think it’ll be fine because it’s probably close. Truck drives well no issue.
I’d bet money if I go back in there with a nicer torque wrench after doing what I did, it’s going to click at 173 with no movement have me shake my head at the waste of time on tearing the truck apart for no reason.

take for example German cars. Very high torque spec axle bolt. One time use stretch. Virtually 100% of those professionally are not torqued. They are tightened. And then breaker bar is stranded on by the weight of a human being. And it works 100% fine every time.

to actually torque those you’d need an adapter, big long expensive torque wrench, and counter hold. And that is only really something seen in the exotic car world with center locks such as Porsche where in that case yes it is warranted to be specific about the torque.


——
Not to mention trail repairing a CV, folks are probably tightening by feel with a breaker bar not Tq wrench
That provided you have weight and strength is achievable and are not 9 years old.

 

My torque wrench only goes to 150#'s.
That's all I did and tried to get a little more out of it with a breaker bar.

 

It will be fine, 150 plus a little more will work.
If the cotter pin was "close" too fitting at 150, it's fine.

 

Two grunts and a fart.

 

203ft/lb

 

don’t grunt too hard or else that turns into 2 grunts, a shart, and an ooops

 

As others have already stated, 150 plus a grunt is probably fine. That said, I don't know what your budget is, but Harbor Freight sells the Quinn 1/2" clicker (50-250 ft lbs) for $80 (regular price), and it's been proven to be very accurate and reliable.

They also have their 1/2" digital torque adapter (25-250 ft lbs), also proven to be reasonably accurate and reliable, and that plus a breaker bar can easily handle your situation. An advantage with the adapter (if you go that route), is you can also use it to test the accuracy of your other torque wrenches (not to replace REAL calibration of course).

I think HF has a sale (TODAY is the last day) - 15% of any single item (NO EXCLUSION, which is SUPER rare for them). You need a coupon, but it's available on their website.