What upper control arms for a 3 inch lift

Have had the truck lifted 3 inches for around 10k miles. I’m starting to drive it in longer trips. To and from college, vacations, etc. My question is do I really need to update the upper control arms? Truck holds 80mph easily and handles well enough. Have gotten mixed feedback on Facebook about this. Figured I’d go to the pros.

 

If your alignment specs are good, and the truck drives fine, then no, you don't need to replace UCAs.

I, however, have the TRD Baha lift kit plus 1' for basically 3' as well. My alignment specs are not perfect. Getting enough Caster is the main limitation with the stock UCAs. I also have a bit too much positive camber which I don't like. Because the alignment isn't ideal, the traction control kicks in on dry pavement going around certain corners (I have re-set/calibrated the traction control a couple times). Every time it kicks in when it shouldn't, I start researching aftermarket UCAs which I assume will fix those issues.

 

If you have a 3" lift you should also have aftermarket UCAs. What brand? That depends on mostly on you, plenty of threads on who bought what for what reasons. I bought Ironman4x4 because they had 2 degrees built in and I thought the forged aluminum looked cool.

 

I don’t have traction control. What should the alignment specs looks like?

 

But what’s the reasoning for needing them if everything is performing well. That’s where I’m confused.

 

The angle applies unwanted stress on OEM components and will fail prematurely also allows more importantly allows for more down travel ... OEM doesn't allow for as much down travel needed once lifted... I have SPC

 

Also something to consider.. depending on what company your lift is with I might would attempt if possible to purchase from same manufacturer... Typically they do R&D and engineer all their suspension components to work together.

 

I would stay away from SPC. QC seems to be a major issue: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/spc-upper-control-arms-yay-or-nay.825270/#post-29592724

Lots of people have been very happy once they ditched their SPCs and went to a different manufacture.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...after-spc-and-why.830577/page-3#post-29929721

I'm considering OME or JBA for my UCAs. Also seen BDS but don't know much about them: https://bds-suspension.ca/control-arm-upper-05-17-toyota-tacoma.html

 

He was referring to his Vehicle Stability Control kicking in, mine does the same .

 

I have had my SPC uca since 2015 but I read that thread and I haven't experienced anything at all.. guess they don't make them like they used to

 

Yes, thanks for clarifying that for me

 

It could handle better. The aftermarket ucas will allow for better alignment numbers. I personally run JBAs.

 

3" suspension list is not advised on 2nd gens. Every bit you go up decreases the amount of droop you have. Resulting in the chassis getting upset when hitting pot holes. If you are 4X4 you will increase wear and tear on the CV joints and boots. 1-2" is ideal.

SPCs are fine, they offer the most tunability and ease of alignment. Been running them for years, just takes maintenance like all other suspension parts. To take it further with a premium brand you can get Heim joints that offer similar adjustability but will have an even tougher time getting an alignment shop to get it right as you have to remove the UCA for every adjustment. But those are more "racecar" parts.

So if you are not going up in tire size and lower the front end a bit, you should not have issue with stock UCAs. The adjustable type are needed to get proper specs with larger tires by getting the tire away from the firewall and cab mounts, regardless of lift height. Depending on the shops in your area, getting a good alignment with adjustable UCAs will quickly get into hundreds of dollars.

Typical specs to shoot for are between 0 to very slightly negative Toe, 0 to slightly negative Camber, and ~3 degrees of Caster. This will track well, maintain even tread wear, accommodate well for various loads causing rear squat, and acceptable turning performance.

 

99% of aftermarket UCA's will push the top of the tire BACK and INCREASE clearance issues with the cab mounts. The only way a UCA can increase caster is by moving the ball joint backward which pushes the top of the spindle, and in turn the wheel, backwards. How far back the wheel goes will depend on how much caster the UCA's add combined with whatever adjustments are done to the LCA in order to dial in the alignment. To increase caster you move the top of the spindle back (with UCA's) and/or you move the bottom of the spindle forward (by adjusting the UCA cams). Depending on the parts used and the settings made you can end up moving the wheel forward or backward and it's tough to know which will happen until you start making the adjustments.
https://youtu.be/huMztKaHsUE?si=xg38Dl1QTaPyTulb&t=366

If the OP adds aftermarket UCA's he may start having rubbing issues. Of course that may just be what needs to happen in order to improve his alignment specs.

 

Not sure about the 99%. But yes, that is mostly correct. With the SPCs you can go forwards or backwards. You are not stuck with the built in 2 degrees like the JBAs. The coarse adjustment is performed by the LCA; rear cams turned all the way out, front cams all the way in. Then the UCA ball joint for the fine tuning via pulling it to the rear , regaining the lost Caster, and sliding the UBJ for 0 to negative Camber as desired, then back to the LCA and finally the tie rods to finish it off.

 

I'm not sure what the max/min caster adjustment is with the SPC but it kinda doesn't matter. The adjustability is really nice compared to other UCA's but if the OP installed them and moved adjusted them forward rather than backward he would be reducing his caster - making it worse, not better.

What I was getting at was... Lifting an IFS truck will reduce caster. So, to correct for this you have to increase caster. The only way a UCA can increase caster is by moving the top of the spindle back, which moves the wheel backwards as well.

You're right that it becomes more complicated if you're using SPC vs the other brands out there. I really like their design and was originally going to get them but just heard too many issues. I was willing to tolerate some of them but after hearing SPC warns against pressure washing your suspension that was a deal breaker. I ended up with Dirt King as they are one of the only ones that run rubber bushings, a ball joint instead of spherical bearings and also didn't have a large amount of caster correction.

 

are they really NEEDED though? All of these post are for alignment which seems fine.

 

Post up an alignment sheet you received. I’m betting the specs aren’t correct.

 

geeeezuus....talk about confusing the crap out of this young man. Talking about more travel numbers, alignment and other things outside of what he has stated....Really?

Quote: I’m starting to drive it in longer trips. To and from college, vacations, etc.

If his truck is driving normally( too him), tracks fine, no adverse issues while driving, including tires are wearing good and never really offroads then he doesn't need to change anything.

 

Thank you for the input! Even with the lift it feels about like it did 50k miles ago. Just want everything to be as safe as possible so I can keep the truck for many years without headache.