What tire pressure on your Goodyear Wranglers

Might best belong in "wheels and tires" forum, but I thought I'd ask what tires came on your 2016 Tacoma TRD? Goodyear Wranglers on mine and the Max pressure stamped on the tire is 51 psi. Goodyear's website says "refer to vehicle owners manual". I checked them and they had 30. The Toyota dealership said run 36 in them. Jeez, I'm not looking for a Cadillac ride. I want maximum mileage and minimum tire wear. Where's the "sweet spot"?

 

I have the same tires. I am running mine at 30 psi, as what is posted on my door jamb. I saw on the tire it says 51 psi; seems kind of high. My dealership down here says they keep them at 30psi.

 

36 psi might be close to what you want. do a chalk test and see what the wear pattern will look like at that psi. Some people run 2 higher in the front as a result of the weight.

 

0psi. Took them off at a couple hundred miles

 

I think automakers recommend tire pressures on the low side because there's no doubt that the ride is smoother. After all, they're not paying for the next set of tires you buy or the gasoline you put in your vehicle.

 

Run whats in the door on the sticker. The recommended pressure is according to the GVWR of the vehicle. On a heavier truck, the pressure would be higher.

 

That's it. Because if they couldn't advertise better MPG by adding a couple pounds of air, they wouldn't

 

Chalk is over rated. I use salt

 

Running 38PSI Nitrogen load, feels good, only 2300 miles with no abnormal wear....

 

Dumb question, but do you get better MPG with higher PSI?

 

The car maker detemines the weights on axles and for those loads they let the tire maker calculate a pressure, atleast before the year 2000.
After the year 2000 ( no coincidence around the Ford/Firestone -afaire, rear was mostly kept at maxloadpressure ( Standard load 36psi EUR /35psi USA) or even maximum allowed cold pressure as given on SL and XL /reinforced/Extraload tires only ( between 44 and 51 psi for SL and XL sometimes even 60 psi). So this maxloadpressure . lets call it AT-pressure furtheron , is not the maximum cold pressure of a tire.
LT tires ( Euro system C(omercial)-tyres) only give AT-pressure and sometimes write maxpress behind it, but higher pressure is allowed.
Most tiremakers allow 10 psi above it.

So your 30 psi advice is most likely calculated for the GAWR, and for lower loads , so normal driving with only driver , can even be lower.
The 36 psi is the AT-pressure of a SL eurometric tyre, and mostly given as standard advice by tire-specialists.
The 51 psi is the maximum allowed cold pressure of your most likely SL tire.

I am able to calculate a save lowest pressure for you but need more data.
Once got hold of the official European formula , wich USA stepped over to for only SL and XL// as late as 2006 , when the Ford/Firestone affaire was rounded off and forgotten)
Even made my own universal formula of wich USA and EUR official can be made by putting other power in and construction load zero, but also an alternative one described by an American IR J.C.Daws, wich is linear with a constructionload,
Determined my own settings for that formula, to my opinion comes closest to the ever to be constructed ideal formula to laws of nature.
Even am busy with a replacing system for higher speed ( and lower speed) then the maximum load is calculated for.

Also concluded of the F/F affaire that those tires where offroad-looking , and had large profile blocks that cover a part of sidewall , so lesser sidewall able to flex, wich courced to much heat and so tire damage.
Will give picture of that because tires on cars on this forum often also have this.
Mayby even 20% of the given maximum load should be substracted to be save to laws of nature.

 

There are several sites on the 'net that describe the Chalk Test. The procedure, however, is a bit more complicated than two words can describe.

• After applying chalk, drive forward and backward 50 ft, then inspect the chalk lines.
• Increase or reduce pressure to make the wear of the lines "flat" across the tire.
• Repeat several times, until the line wear is indeed flat on all tires.
• Then, increase the pressure in all 4 tires 10%
• Then, measure the distance from bottom rim (6 o-clock position) to road surface for each tire
• Then, increase pressure in the "low" tires so all tires ride equally high.

Argh.
All that work, and then the temperature changes, or the sun shines on one side of the truck more than the other, and the sophisticated calculations and time-consuming iterations are for naught. I'd rather be driving than continually adjusting tire pressure.

My alternative (may or may not be all drivers' alternative):
Inflate all tires to 3-4 PSI above door post pressure, using a digital or large dial pressure gauge. Maybe a little more for the rear, depending on the load in the bed.

(The center of the tire might be a little high, but the front tires' edges will wear more than the center, because of friction during turns. Rotating tires will help even the wear.)

Oh ... I seem to remember a Mythbusters episode where the guys showed small pressure changes had no effect on MPG.

 

I run 34-35 in front tires and 30-32 in rear tires. Most of the weight is up front.

 

If you are running the Original Equipment tires that came on the truck, I highly recommend inflating to the pressure listed on the Door Placard. The footprint of the tire is already optimized at that pressure, and all of the vehicle dynamics and tire development were performed at that pressure.

The impact of tire pressure on footprint really dependends on the tire construction (belt stiffness, etc).

Most people on this forum myself included don't repurchase the OE minivan tires for a variety of reasons (increased size, aesthetics, toughness, etc) at which point all of the OE development work goes down the drain, and this forum becomes quite handy to share experiences.

 

I run mine at about 35 to 36 on all four when they are warmed up. So that is about 32 - 33 psi when cold in my area at this time of year / winter. I commute highway main on mine and that's about the nicest ride and mileage I have found after playing with them for about a week.

 

I'm running 265/75/r16 Wrangler Duratracs on stock TRD OR wheels. Door sticker is meaningless, as these are NOT the same tires as the sticker pertains to.

I've played with pressures from 28 to 45....Best contact patch is @ 38. Best gas mileage is @ 38. Best ride seems to be around 34. @ 10,000 miles, I've measured just at 1/32" of wear. Tires seem to balance best @ 38psi. So.....36 to 38 psi is my recommendation.

 

I run mine at 32 psi seems like a good general number

 

No fault finding here (really) but anyone who thinks 'max pressure' on the sidewall has anything to do with what pressures should be run will be clueless what a chalk test is, or how it can be beneficial to pressure determination in specific situations. I mean most tire shops and dealerships don't even set your pressure right.

Most tires have little triangles on the sidewall, close to the tread wrap. Those are 'warning' markers, as in don't 'drive' past this point. Normally a cornering indicator, as in the tire rolls over under cornering.

Mark the chalk line between a couple of those and the tread and drive the truck around town as normal, turning as you normally do. Chalk still there means you can lower the pressure some and try again. Chalk gone or close to gone, add a little air and repeat test.

Do this as the vehicle is loaded 80% of the time, and you'll have a good number to work with on those particular tires. Different brands and/or load ratings, even in the same size, will need to be retested.

Remember pressures change about 1# per 10* change in temp, either from weather or use. So regular adjustments are in order.

Info learned from performance driving school and lots of SoloII seat time. Yes, it's sports car oriented, but the principles are the same.

 

Those little triangles on the upper sidewall are there to easily locate the tread wear indicators in the bottom of the grooves.