What suspension components do I need?

Hey all, I'm going to be replacing the suspension on my 2004 PreRunner TRD Off-Road. I've settled on Bilstein 4600s. Here's my question: aside from the parts shown in the image of the suspension kit, are there any other parts I need to order to bring to my mechanic? Do I need to replace the coils and/or leaf springs (see images)? The truck has 145,000 miles on it and has all factory suspension as far as I can tell. I'm getting this wear pattern on the inside edges of my front tires (yes, I know I need new tires, I'm getting those too), even after regular alignment, and the wheels are visibly canted inwards. I figure worn suspension might be to blame, but I want to be sure that I get all of the right components. What do you think? Thank you!

 

That wear inside on both tires looks pretty even indicating, to me, the wear may be more attributed to a bad alignment job. Or maybe larger tires were installed and an alignment was not done. Although I think that would cause outside wear. Maybe a lift was removed. The alignment tech may have better diagnosis.

The only thing I might add are the coil assembly top hats. See KYB SM5613 or equivalent.

 

Honestly id look at replacing upper and lower ball joints and maybe tire rods depending on the condition they are in.

 

IMHO
cant be exacty sure bc 1st pix is too close.....
could be excessive Neg Camber(alignment or worn upr control arm bushings)
or
could be excessive Neg Toe(tires pointed out) or Positive Toe(tires pointed in) (alignment or worn otr tie rods or inr tie rods)





my guess is tie rods

 

Take it to an trusted alignment shop and have them look hands on. It might just need an alignment, it might need all the bushings and ball joints. Really hard to judge over the internet.

would definitely recommend new lower ball joints in any case if you don’t know their age.

 

Just get new springs- the existing ones are sagged, and probably one of several factors contributing to the alignment issue.

x 1 million on the lower ball joints. 100% OEM joints. Plenty of threads here covering this.

 

You need these, When we did my Dads 2000, I don't believe the 4600 fronts come with them (They go on the top of the fronts). Or you need to confirm. These are going to be dried out and shot for sure. These are not included in your photo. This kit looks like it has them. Just double check before you buy.

https://www.suspensionlifts.com/sho...MInePurOahhQMVrzfUAR28hAqtEAQYBSABEgKTU_D_BwE

 

Note, I posted wrong KYB part # for top hat. Should be SM5413. I posted for 2nd gen but have edited the post. And looks like KYB only offers the rubber bushing.

 

Watch out on the KYB bushings...lots of bad reviews, not sure if it is the kit or the seller? Buy from one of the more reputable dealers on here like toytec or wheelers or headstrong.

lots of good reading here on the topic.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bilstein-4600-bushings.498403/


https://www.suspensionlifts.com/sho...MI7bP5mPuhhQMVjxqtBh2VoQv2EAQYASABEgLWbvD_BwE

Good luck

BTW, I just replaced my 12 year old 80K mile 5100s and you can see some of mine are almost disintegrated.

 

Attached is the list from the front end refresh on my '03 last year, prices should still be current. After 20 years all the suspension rubber is probably worn out and will definitely affect alignment, but it looks like someone's been doing work so maybe not (the first gen didn't have Bilsteins off the line.) Lower control arm bushings, TRE's, steeering rack bushings, and lower shock bushings (the Bilsteins should come with new shock bushings.) If you don't know the history, definitely lower ball joints.

Those springs look really good, they may have settled a little so you may consider just doing the shocks, but you'd have to replace the tophats and associated hardware and deal with a spring compressor. If you're down for an assembled set, have a look at these, best price I found. These are for 6 lug 4x4, different part if it's a 5 lug.

 

I would not buy these off the bat just in case your do move but most likely your eccentric cams are seized. If they are you will need new cams and bolts along with new lower control arm bushings.

 

Thank you all for all of your help! I took the truck into an alignement shop today and the owner suggested new balls joints, control arm bushings, and a new rack and pinion..seems like shocks are the least of my worries! This feels like it's gonna get pretty expensive. Are there any of these components that are more critical than others or should i just bite the bullet and get everything done (and new tires!)..

 

I’m surprised at the rack and pinion - did they give specific reasons?

if you do replace it, oem remanufactured from Toyota is the only way to go. Other rebuilds are junk.

 

He probably pulled the boots back and fluid leaked out. That or he assumed a bushing replacement needed a new rack.

 

What part of Cali has this truck lived in? My Cali born and raised Tacoma has way more rust on all the parts shown in the photos.

 

I donno, they look pretty good to me . . .

The rack will be the worst, around $495. (well, tires LOL . . . ) CA bushings themselves are only $60 or so per side, it's the work getting them in and out that will be costly. In the pic above, look at the lower bushing of that shock, see how it's off center? The rubber is probably toast. This can prevent a proper alignment as well (did for me.)

I'd go with the A-arms, ball joints, and rack, tie rod ends are not that expensive (OEM rack comes with inners.) What I did is get the A-arms/ball joints/rack in order, swap out a new set of lower shock bushings, address the coilovers/springs later.

Have the upper ball joints inspected, but it's likely that can wait too. They don't take as much of a beating and can probably go a while before doing that work.

You know, you have a bit of a rare peach here, I have seen a lot of pics of Tacos and you have zero rust. Mine is almost that clean, but not quite.

 

Hey all, I bought the truck with 90,000 from the original owner who always had the car in a garage and had factory service records back to new. I live in Pasadena, outside of LA, and I've kept up all of the services, so it still has records back to new!

 

If you have the cash I'd just get it all done at once. Save you from multiple trips to the mechanic and most mechanics will/should offer a package deal if you do it all at once. It'll all be apart anyways so its easiest to change it all in one go if you have the cash. Those eccentric cams seize internally to the bushing. That bolt will come out but that inner sleeve with the cams will seize to the bushing.