What (if any) ThreadLocker do you use on the hub bolts?

Last hub I did had the threads with Thread-Locker applied to the threads. (Dry)

The one I have now doesn’t have any. What kind should I use?
Blue/Simi or Red/Permanent?

Kind of skeptical on using Red.
If you ever have to take them back out, all you can get in there a wrench. And you can only use the boxed end for maybe 1 turn.
Then it’s open end the rest of the way out.

FWIW, I used the ones from RockAuto. Part #051-6470

Same as the last hub. But this one didn’t have the thread locker?

 

Only use red in a semi permanent place. Heat and impact often required to remove the fixed item.

And let me tell you, on a crank bolt it can be quite the circus. (Not me. Seriously). I can't imagine a hub like that.

Blue would seem to be the deal here.

 

There's a Permatex Orange.
https://www.permatex.com/products/t...h-removable-orange-threadlocker/?locale=en_us

 

Haven't seen that before. More stuff to buy.

But you'd think they'd know that blue and red make purple.

 

Can’t say I’ve seen that before.
I have Red and Blue on hand, don’t really buy more.

TBH, the last one I took off didn’t look to have any on it?

 

Personally, I would never use red on wearable items that will likely need replacing or requiring access to items that needs replacing.
On a side note, are you replacing the same WB that was replaced before? Just curious why you went the rock auto route vs the TW member 05taco4x4?

 

As stated. Loctite 271 (Red) is a permanent locker for anything below a Grade 8 fastener. The Gr 8 fasteners have enough strength to shear the red loctite without breaking the fastener. Any fastener weaker than Grade 8 will fail before the Loctite 271 releases its grip. This is when you need the gas wrench to heat the fastener, then it will come off.

Suggest to use the weaker Loctite products on serviceable assemblies.

 

Short answer. -Price



Long Answer

I went with the expensive ones once before. NOT from 05taco4x4.
The member I bought mine from is now banned.
Basically, what it comes down to is that I don’t want to spend another $500+ on bearings, AGAIN.
Not if I’m going to do them every 3 years or so.

I have a slight pull to the right. Been that way for YEARS.
I’ve paid multiple shops to try and figure it out. No one has figured it out yet.
I can’t figure it out, and like the bearings, I’m tired of paying to “figure it out”.

It’s not a terrible pull, and doesn’t really affect tire tread life. I still get 50-80k out of a set of tires.
But it does have a pull. And at this point, I’m guessing MAYBE the pull is what caused the premature failure of the other bearing. BUT, OEM bearings lasted 100k miles.

3 Different shops all say it looks GREAT. All suspension parts are tight and good.
I did have vibs but the bushing and new front left bearing seem to have fixed that so far.
Throwing the right side on it and going to drive it. Hopefully with any luck, (not likely) this magically fixes the pull.

AGAIN, the previous set were NOT from 05taco4x4.
I’ve heard nothing but good things about his bearings.

 

Anyone have any thoughts on using a TQ adapter?
I have the 17mm adapter (pic below).
Do I need to readjust the TQ to a lower setting, or is 59 close enough and don’t worry about it?

The adapter is like this one

 

Fast answer "Yes" you need to change the setting... but, by how much???

This may be what your looking for
https://www.utilityproducts.com/too...just-torque-values-when-using-torque-adapters
NOW I would check the info over. You know how the internet is...

What would the Toyota shop manual say to do ????
Or what would a good shop do?

It would be nice to know
Thx

 

Like HP-3336B said, yes it makes a difference. Below is a snip-it from a Craftsman manual that came with one of my torque wrenches.
Where I used to work, every time an extension like (E) in the manual was used in assembly the torque wrench was calibrated with the extension in place.

 

You may want a crowfoot adapter with open end.

In any case, put the adapter on at 90 deg to the torque wrench and no torque scaling is needed: https://www.tekton.com/how-to-accurately-use-a-torque-wrench-with-a-crowfoot-wrench

I put Fluid Film on the threads for corrosion, so I actually scale down the torque to about 65% of book value due to the lower friction. Loctite however doesn't change the torque value.

 

In any case, put the adapter on at 90 deg to the torque wrench

Good point!!!!

 

Second the crowfoot adapter, it's very short and will have minimal effect on the torque and it's what I used. Yes, it will have an effect, but not like a 3-inch extension will. In our assemblies, when engineering spec'd out a torque value it was always given in a range and rarely a specific target number. An example; 59ft-lbs would have been like 56 - 62 ft-lbs, depending on the joint.

 

I got it done.
Used the jack stand to hold the bar to TQ the axle nut.

She still pulls to the right.
Going to have it aligned and call it good.

 

Here a good one for you.
Took it in for an alignment. (still here now). Guy walks in and says “the right bearing has just a little play”.

WTF? I literally just did it yesterday.
I didn’t check it after I put the wheel on.
It was new, why check it, right?

FWIW, it sounds good.
No signs of a roar yet.

 

Do you have your dust covers installed?

 

Where did you find that 17 mm adapter?

 

Yes, all of them are installed.

Napa. Ordered it online. About $35 shipped.
If I did this stuff for a living, I’d buy the whole set.
They are cheaper that way, but I hope to never need a set.
I honestly don’t enjoy working on vehicles. And try not to buy more stuff than I need.

 

Nice , so should thread locker be used on the axle nut?? (I hear even if it’s torqued properly that it can still back off) , I’m getting ready to do this and and gathering the stuff I need . Never done the job but I want to do it correctly , I also gotta get a 17mm crowfoot wrench it looks like to torque the hub bolts (a crow foot adaptor used on a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench doesn’t need a torque adjustment )

what can be used to clean the face where the bearing assembly bolts to ? Just regular scotch brite pads ?