What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

Anyone know where this item was discussed?



When you go to Amazon, it says its for a 3rd gen....and it looks like the ones on the 19+.

Side note: It would be handy to be able to "back track" what thread/post an item down there came from. It would also probably be a gigantic pain in the ass for the forum tech/admins/whoever would set that up. But it would be nice

EDIT: Sorry, the item in question is a tailgate lock. I'm wondering if, but also doubting that, it would fit our (2nd gen) tailgates. But seeing it "items mentioned in the 2nd gen forum" made me wonder.

 

what made you go with JBA UCA's I'm the market, not sure what to get.

 

I didn't take a lot of pictures because it kinda felt like a crime, but I removed the center console and tapped into the blue (looked like 8 AWG) line coming into the inverter. Ran some wire in loom out a hole in the carpet under the passenger seat and back to the 12/24/15A DC-DC charger there, then more wire in loom to the 24v 100AH lifep04 battery on the floor. I have a 30A breaker that you can't see under that small fuse panel. Next phase is to run wire in loom out the grommet, that is located under the middle of the back seat, and into the storage compartment of the bed/camper area, where I'll have another fuse box.

I drained the battery down to 70%, and drove around with the lights and A/C on. The charger is pulling 30A @ 12V. I monitored the truck's voltage with an ODBII reader while driving, and it dropped only 0.1v while charging. I have the tow package, so I'm pretty sure I have 30A to spare without a trailer. The nice thing is, I can cut off the charger by toggling the inverter button on the dash, but the 100/400w thing has no affect, since I'm not using the inverter.

 

I may paint my regular cab quick sand one day. Looks really good on 2nd gens.

 

Nice setup using the inverter switch, that's a serious battery.

I haven't dug into it but it'd be nice if I could turn on the inverter and it stay on, as long as the truck is running and come back on when the truck starts instead of being mementary. It's rare that I'd use it that way but I use the truck's 110V to charge my power box, drones and gopros. It does does great for what I need "when" I don't forget to push the button.

 

I found a thread on here where people were trying to find a wire or fuse in the engine compartment that would indicate the motor was running and then connect that to the inverter relay, thus disabling the momentary switch and bypassing all the “is my car moving forward, yada yada yada” logic, but it wasn’t so easy. Would be easy to just put a toggle switch connected to that relay though, but then you risk running your battery down

 

Fixed my tie rods, alignment shop showed me the slop I had

I didn't go with OEM, they were asking $190 just for the inner!

Went with Napa Dormans. Both sides, inner and outer toe rods, were less than the one inner from Toyota.

 

Did a 40% seat delete, added a drawer, and modified the existing dog platform to still allow the back panels to fold down separately using the seat hinges.






also installed a Quad Lock mag mount with wireless charging.

 

Finally replaced this stupid window piece. Don't ask about what happened to the original part.

 

Just found this last month jammed packed with leaves. I believe there is access from behind the fender liner side also

 

2015 TRD OffRoad.

 

obviously because theyre red

Kidding, I immediately eliminated any uniball due to noise/maintenance. JBA UCA actually has more articulation than a uniball joint according to JBA. Apparently you can also use a MOOG ball joint in a pinch if you ever did need to replace the sealed ball joint. Maintenance is easy you just need a grease gun and to actually use it every 3-5k miles.
I think for a long time I was looking at SPC. But the quality of them is questionable. Plus the adjustability of the SPC, you need an alignment tech who has experience in those UCA specifically imo to go forward with confidence. I asked around and did research and JBA started to stick out to me.
JBA has preset caster. The product quality is there, and I questioned that with more ‘affordable’ (like freedom UCA?! Never gave it much thought, although it may be a fine product) alternatives. I saved a lot on my other parts (lightly used leaf pack, 6112 and 5160 through RockAuto). It felt justified to pay full price for a quality product that could suit me if I ever upgrade the suspension again.

imo 90% of people do not need a heavy duty UCA and I went with their standard duty. Customer service is almost overbearing, in a good way. I received many emails before receiving the UCA all about the owner, his history, and the product and to communicate with them for any reason. Instructions provided were clear and the product comes with warranty.

im not sure whatever options you’re considering, but basically this was recommended from 2 of my trusted friends. One of which who has a fully built long travel Tacoma, and has his own business doing installs, CMC, etc..

 

New to me drive shaft.
I’ve been driving in front wheel drive for about two weeks

 

Finally got some Ute tray parts from (hinge straps) to put on my diy steel tray sides still need paint or PC and latches to secure them together!

 

@AllTacosFloat

 

Hey Guys, I'm trying to confirm if these fit my 2012 Tacoma - TRD OR 4WD. I swear various websites give me different answers. I've read a bunch EBC's are great, but I cant seem to get a solid answer if these Stage 2's will fit. Any help would be appreciated

https://www.carid.com/2012-toyota-t...options=1&parentsubmodel[]=SUBMODEL|TRD+Sport

 

Not sure about fit but don't buy drilled and slotted for mud or sand use. Grooves and holes get caked with sand and mud. OK as long as you clean them out frequently.

 

how did you do this..

(the whole bed setup)

 

Right - I want to go with slotted versus drilled. But I dont do as much off roading as I used to.

 

https://youtu.be/dpXoi-IcMmE?si=Nwu4VOfCCU6lg1xg

This bloke is where I got my first d