What do I need to replace leaf springs?

I plan to buy some used rear leaf springs. Do I need to purchase additional hardware? Keep in mind I'm trying to be as frugal as possible. Can I just put the salvage springs directly on? Thank you guys. I love this place.

 

Its very very advisable to replace the ubolts. And a lot of people have issues with the front bolt and have to cut it out. Ultimately up to you.

Also depends on where you live. If theres any corrosion or rust. It becomes more crucial to at least have the spare hardware on hand.

 

New ubolt kit and new bushings for said springs. Grease to go with the bushings as well.

Tools used were 1/2" drive socket wrench with deep sockets (2 sets between 17mm-21mm) , a 1/2" drive breaker bar, PB Blaster, 4x jackstands, a floor jack, and ratchet strap.

Just replaced my leaf springs last month so it's pretty fresh in my mind still.

 

Here are some pics to help -

1. Jack up truck, remove wheels, and remove rear shocks. You'll have 2 bushings, 1 bolt, and 2 washers per eyelet.



2. Support your axle with a set of jack stands, and your frame with another set of jack stands. Loosen the u bolts but don't remove them completely.



3. Loosen the 19mm bolt that holds the front of your leaf as well as the rear shackles. I chose to remove the front first, followed by the rear.

4. You've removed the bolts holding the leaf springs, now the fun part is manipulating the axle and pulling the leaf spring out. No real trick to it, just use arm strength and a lot of manipulation of the axle. Just be careful of your rear brake line; you don't want to drop the axle too low from the vehicle or you'll snap your line.

5. Install new leafs, making sure to orient them in the same directions as your old ones. There is a center pin that aligns to the axle, make sure you get it centered on the pin. From there you can start putting the u bolts back on, loosely.



6. Bolting in the leaf springs can be a bit tricky. I went ahead and put on the shackles and did the rear of the leaf first. You'll notice the front won't line up though to push the bolt back in. This is where this comes in handy.



7. Use ratchet strap to manipulate your axle, whether it's towards the front of the vehicle or to the rear. I wrapped the strap around the axle and used the frame of the vehicle as my anchor. Pretty self explanatory from there.

8. Install rear shocks.

9. Remove your axle jack stands, install your tires, and finally remove the jack stands from under your frame. It's only once the vehicle is under its own weight that you'll want to torque everything down.

 

Living in the Northeast USA

Much easier to just cut u-bolts

I have never been able to get the bolt out of the spring hanger having tried everything the bushings are only coming out by using the torch Save the steel shells you might need to reuse them

I just put new shackle kits on.

My one Adventure with used springs never again

 

Nice work @Kwikvette

I am looking at installing some Dakar’s myself in the next month or so.

Did you have to extend your brake lines when you did this? Also are you having any problems with squeaking? Squeaks and creaks drive me nuts so I’m a little worried about buying these springs.

Thanks!

 

A sawzall with a few carbide blades. New u bolts, new main eye bolts/ nuts. New bushings for salvage springs.

 

I used a torch and a plasma cutter. And a lot of profanity.

 

From experience, make sure you have new hardware (bolts) for the front and rear of the springs. I replaced my springs about a month ago and only purchased all the u-bolt hardware. I could not get the front bolts out of either spring and had to end up cutting them, which left me scrambling to find replacements before I could put everything back together.

 

I do have an extended brake line, but have yet to replace it. Need to go out and buy a flare wrench; I'm good in the meantime since I'm not out wheeling.





I developed a squeak recently but after spraying some lubricant between the leafs and near the shackles, it's gone away.

I live in CA so rust isn't an issue but if you need, buy extra parts -

Bolt - 90080-10135
Washer - 90201-14005
Nut - 90179-14039

You can buy the bolt at Ace or something, just make sure it's Grade 8 - M14x1.5x100mm

 

Spring hardware is grade 5I believe.

 

Just installed dakars on my truck last weekend.
Lucked out and the majority of my bolts were not rusted seized since the truck hasn't seen salt. The drivers front leaf bolt was sized to the bushing and that took some force to free...but otherwise, everything came off pretty easy, especially w/ an impact wrench.

I tried doing one side at a time but it was too much of a hassle to get the axle in position as it has to move forward a couple inches over stock, even w/ a ratchet strap. But after removing both leafs & shocks, I could move the axle around on the floor jack and line everything up in seconds. In retrospect, I wouldn't waste time trying to do one side at a time again.

 

If doing stock leafs, one at a time is just fine. Anything else, take em both out like you said.

 

I got a used set of springs that we installed a month or two ago. Literally unbolt the old ones and replace. Didn't buy any additional parts or hardware, didn't replace u-bolts or anything, no issues.

Edit: Just realized this is 1st gen forums

 

Yours wasnt part of that 2nd gen leaf recall? My dads 08 got new springs when he bought it, and another new set is coming with the frame.

 

It was, they replaced mine in 2016. I replaced them again when I did my lift recently. I ended up getting a used set of springs with an AAL already assembled for free from another TW member. Came off of a 2017 OR so it's the same springs I had just with the AAL

 

Awesome thanks for the part numbers! Yea the truck definitely has a bit of rust underneath and I have an angle grinder and intend to use it.

I do go wheeling pretty much every day to get to my off grid cabin but it’s not that extreme... wonder if I could get away without an extension

 

If you're going to replace your leaf springs with OME Dakar's, you should replace your brake line with an extended one. The added droop/flex you'll get will allow you to extend your brake line long enough to potentially damage it.

As you can see, I did a little flexing near where I live just to see when I'd reach my bump stop. Had I flexed the rear the other way, my brake line would've been at my mercy.



Speaking of bump stops, make sure you get a longer set of stops to prevent your shocks from bottoming out!

 

Got it thanks for the help! @Kwikvette