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What causes blown head gaskets and how to prevent?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by crackedmirror, Jun 19, 2021.

  1. Jun 19, 2021 at 9:02 AM
    #1
    crackedmirror

    crackedmirror [OP] Well-Known Member

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    How to avoid this expensive problem in the first place?
     
  2. Jun 19, 2021 at 9:12 AM
    #2
    crazytacoman

    crazytacoman Well-Known Member

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    I think regular engine maintenance like changing oil, coolant, water-pump, and (adjusting valve clearances for 4 cylinder engines). I think this is about right since all of this helps keep the engine from overheating
     
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  3. Jun 19, 2021 at 9:12 AM
    #3
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    Buy a truck that’s not 20 years old. At some point everything becomes a wear item. You can reduce wear but you can’t eliminate it nor can you turn back the clock.
     
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  4. Jun 19, 2021 at 9:18 AM
    #4
    RedWings44

    RedWings44 Well-Known Member

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    Pretty much what everyone else said. Regular maintenance is best. Trying not to overheat the engine (which is usually pretty hard to do if everything else is functioning properly). Eventually things will break down.

    Don't be afraid of it though. There's a man in the NC/SC area who drives 5-600 miles a day for his job. His 4 cylinder Tacoma has 1.2M+ miles with 400k on the current engine. He did very little maintenance to it and the head gasket on the original engine blew at 800k. He opted to replace the engine instead of fixing the gasket.
     
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  5. Jun 19, 2021 at 9:28 AM
    #5
    crackedmirror

    crackedmirror [OP] Well-Known Member

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    v6 dont need valve adjustments?
     
  6. Jun 19, 2021 at 3:23 PM
    #6
    crazytacoman

    crazytacoman Well-Known Member

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    V6 doesn’t. All it needs is timing belt maintenance
     
  7. Jun 19, 2021 at 3:28 PM
    #7
    Mastiffsrule

    Mastiffsrule Well-known member, but no one cares.

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    Excessive heat can be a factor. If there is small amount of warp in the area it could allow for seepage, blowout.
     
  8. Jun 19, 2021 at 5:34 PM
    #8
    SLAPS 65

    SLAPS 65 Dirty deeds, done dirt cheap..

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    If we are talking about the 3.4 V6 then it does need periodic valve adjustment. It’s a bucket and shim style manual adjustment setup. Someone will correct me if I’m wrong but my 2000 3.4 definitely is.
     
  9. Jun 19, 2021 at 6:53 PM
    #9
    Wsidr1

    Wsidr1 Well-Known Member

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    According to the Toyota Field Service Manual (screenshots are 96 FSM), 3.4L does need valve clearances check, and possibly adjusted. As @SLAPS 65 said, bucket and shim, same as 2.7L.

    However, most members on here report they don't normally need adjusting like the 2.7L valves do. Many people report 2.7L exhaust valves get too tight. Some have cracked the head.

    upload_2021-6-19_20-49-1.jpg
    upload_2021-6-19_20-49-17.jpg
     
  10. Jun 19, 2021 at 6:54 PM
    #10
    scotkw

    scotkw Well-Known Member

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    Over heating is most common cause. Causes stuff to warp, gaps to increase. But also causes fuel to ignite early leading to over pressure in the cylinder. If you're lucky, it just pushes the gasket out. If you're unlucky, you have managed to lower the compression in that cyclnder by adjusting the length of the rod.

    On boosted engines, if Boosted to high, it can push the gasket out. This usually happens at high load and rpm, thus this form of failure usually comes with molten aluminum and a light show.

    Non boosted can also go over pressure in the cylinder if something goes wrong with timing causing an early burn and max psi while piston is still on the way up. This failure mode generally shows up as the bottom rotating assembly leaving the vehicle without delay.

    :D
     
  11. Jun 19, 2021 at 6:58 PM
    #11
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    Over heating will because of the aluminum heads and cast iron block

    Don’t ever let the engine over heat and get a 170 stat
     
  12. Jun 19, 2021 at 7:09 PM
    #12
    crackedmirror

    crackedmirror [OP] Well-Known Member

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    170 stat?
     
  13. Jun 19, 2021 at 7:55 PM
    #13
    TacoBike

    TacoBike The Researcher

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    Also for boosted engines and NA, dont rev the engine while cold. the clearances and such are not were they are when designed so you can pop it easier.

    @1997tacomav6

    You really don't need a 170 degree thermostat. The 3.4 stock has plenty of cooling and if you are really worried about it, go to a larger radiator. I wouldn't do a colder tstat unless I was doing a full build on an engine. the colder tstats make less power as they are less efficient also.
     
  14. Jun 19, 2021 at 9:32 PM
    #14
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    My engine popped a head gasket at 480,000,
    The engine over heated while stuck in traffic on a 100 plus day, head gasket failed that same year, probably from being over heated,
    After this I had a custom aluminum radiator made and run a 170 Corolla stat,
    Im Putting 300hp to the rear wheel at 13 pounds of boost,
    Yesterday it was 101 degrees and my motor runs at 175 -180 degrees sitting in traffic,
    I'm not going to run my motor at 190-200 plus degrees,
    3.4 Aluminum heads are subject to wrapping with added heat, it doesn't take much,
    I have well over 100k with the 170 stat.
    With all the power I need,
    I'm more than happy with positive results.
     
  15. Jun 19, 2021 at 9:50 PM
    #15
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    Problems are inevitable when you're bolting aluminum to cast iron. They expand and contract at different rates, the head literally sliding around on the gasket. With the engine overheating it gets really easy for a breach to start and then slowly get worse

    Once toyota (and everyone else) went all aluminum the gasket/fluid leaks became less of a problem
     
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  16. Jun 19, 2021 at 10:04 PM
    #16
    MGMDesertTaco

    MGMDesertTaco Come on, live a little...

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    Overheating the engine causes the heads to warp and the gaskets not to seal properly. Also, if the coolant is never changed and debris is floating around in there it will blow out the gasket eventually. Also some coolants like GM's orange dex-cool are known to eat gaskets, which is why there was a major class action lawsuit. GM advertised it as lifetime coolant or good for 100k miles. :rolleyes:
     
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  17. Jun 19, 2021 at 10:41 PM
    #17
    SLAPS 65

    SLAPS 65 Dirty deeds, done dirt cheap..

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    My experience and as most of the comments point out that’s it’s overheating that causes most head gasket failure. They do fail due to age and other causes, poor design for example , see Toyota’s 3.0 V6.. but mostly it overheating. Keeping your cooling system leak free, full and functional is the best way to prevent head gasket failure.
     
  18. Jun 19, 2021 at 11:07 PM
    #18
    US Marine

    US Marine Semper Fi

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    Head gasket failures are caused from ... (listed below can damage the fire ring of the head gasket causing a failure)


    Spark knock

    Pre ignition

    Excessive cyl pressure

    Excessive coolant temps

    Running to lean of a/f ratio

    Poor head gasket design

    Cyl head to deck surface improperly machined ( out of tolerance)


    Commonly used term in Drag racing is called " lifting a cyl head " and main cause is from a combination to lean of fuel mixture and excessive cyl pressure . this causes a blow torch affect that will torch the head gasket fire ring and push the head gasket out

    The hot exh gasses will burn thru the cyl head or deck surface of the block . Other head gasket failures are caused from a over pressure of the cooling system ( cylinder pressure entering the cooling system from a cracked cyl head or cyl
     
  19. Jun 20, 2021 at 7:49 AM
    #19
    MalinoisDad

    MalinoisDad Misanthropic dog person

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    There’s something to this. However, I have driven my 20 year old truck to the east coast and back before (~6,000 miles) without so much as a burnt out blinker bulb. New vehicles made by today’s standards with varying degrees of planned obsolescence built in just seem like disappointments lying in wait, all while the monthly payments keep sapping your bank account of fun coupons. I used to be interested in the third gen Tacomas but I’ve read too many negative first hand experiences that made me lose all interest.
     
  20. Jun 20, 2021 at 9:47 AM
    #20
    crazytacoman

    crazytacoman Well-Known Member

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    holy crap. I recently replaced my old coolant with that stuff cause I had a lot lying around. Figured “It’s Acdelco so can’t go wrong with it”. Will be going full on Toyota red stuff soon then
     
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