What battery is in your 2017 TRD Off Road w/Factory Tow Package?

After digging around the internets, it looks like they used to put 27F batteries in with tow packages (1st/2nd gen), popped the hood and I have a 24F in an Off Road w/factory tow package. Anyone else have this? I wonder if its a way for them to cut cost, it seems the 27F has a larger storage capacity which makes me wonder if when the booster, lights, all the electronic shit going on in the truck is where I'm getting the power suck (headlights and heater blower dimming/reducing power) from and the 24F is just not beefy enough to handle it.

Any thoughts?

 

Seems like it should have a 27F in it.

 

This is part of the window sticker from my truck (Limited) with tow package. It does show 130Amp Alternator, but doesn't mention the battery.

 

I feel like the battery was a corner they cut, I can't find the thread but one guy ordered the 27F tray from the 2nd gen and it fit to bolt down with no modification and he upped to a 27F. I just saw that too and they don't list the battery, the manual only has voltage specs.

 

What battery is in your truck?

 

I don't know.. and I can't go look right now cuz it's storming... and we've had multiple tornados in the area over the past 90 minutes

 

Oh boy, I wouldn't either! I'm going to guess they 24F'd all of us lol. Stay safe out there!

 

Mine has a 24F. I checked a while ago.

Have you had an *actual* problem with yours?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/battery-help-please-24f-vs-27f.245615/

 

From what I have seen and read 27s are getting harder to find. When the battery went out in my 2013 I had to go to the top of the line at Auto Zone. I looked at Wal Mart the next week and did not see a 27. I have seen several battery posts in the Gen2 section that mention this.

 

I am simply looking for information/insight as to what battery comes with the tow package. I'd like to avoid the power suck as I don't want it bagging on other components down the road and becoming an *actual* issue. Regardless, it's also annoying AF.

 

I'm not entirely sure what it is that you're concerned with here. Yes, the CCA and reserve capacity are different, but still pretty decent even on the 24F. I'm not seeing where it'd make a notable difference except in situations that'd call for swapping in an Optima for the OEM battery regardless.

Can you better explain what it is you're seeing that you think you wouldn't see with a 27F?

 

I'm wondering why the headlights are dimming and the heater blower is reducing power when braking and if a 27F would resolve that.

 

Under what circumstances are the lights dimming / heater blower slowing? When you turn off the motor?

 

Yeah, sorry, just updated that. It's when braking (blower and lights), sometimes when shifting I get the blower motor reducing but not the lights dimming. I brought it up at 5K service and the battery tested good.

hah... when I turn off the motor...

 

So when the RPMs change the light/blower output changes?

I've not noticed anything in particular on my OR, albeit it's quite normal for system voltage to be lower at idle, and even lower when the truck is off. That's nothing to do with the battery type but simply because the alternator supplies a higher voltage than a battery will supply when the motor isn't running (~13.8V vs ~12V).

If you're seeing a distinct change with RPMs above idle, my first thought is to have the dealer check the voltage regulator when you're next in. I don't recall if the VR is integrated into the alternator on these though. I don't know that there's an issue, but if you're concerned it'd be worth getting it checked.

Either way that's not something I think would be battery type related; look at the CCA capacity for either; you have 500+ amps even with the 24F.

Edit: it'd be worth making sure your battery terminals are tight before you do anything else. That's a quick simple check.

 

Thats a good point, I haven't been watching the RPMs for a distinct point this is happening, I'll watch that and see if its doing it at a certain RPM. It is when either stopped, then roll forward and stop again or taking off from a stop so that would make sense with the voltage at idle. Thanks for the info, I'm going to have them check the VR at 10k because it has done the blower reducing power between shifts a few times on the freeway/traffic on freeway.

 

The alternator is what you have to worry about when adding more electronics. The battery is there to regulate the surges and start the truck. All you have to worry a bout is throughput.

 

I'd also make sure that the battery terminals were VERY clean. If you notice, the actual area of connection between the clamp and lead posts is very small, not like the old days when we had lead clamps that made FULL contact. If you have dirty connection, then Alt. will struggle....
Good luck.... I'm not sure what I have....The truck is buried in snow right now.

 

Yep, checked the terminals the other day, tight, clean. I'm going to mention it as long as it happens to the dealer and handle it if something arises. Thanks for all the good info guys!

 

Just for comparison my 2.7 SR with zero options has a group 24F 582 amps