Warped Rotors

Op you got a lot of quality answers, you can’t go wrong with oem parts. There are some good aftermarket parts but there are also some cheap quality aftermarket parts. Cheaper is not always better.

 

Ok you can believe what you want, but I have over 40 years in the automotive field retired now. People that are hard or ride there brakes can absolutely over heat them causing damage to the pads and or rotors.

 

Can you reference any peer reviewed papers?

 

It’s called 40 years of actual work experience. You can read all you want, but hands on is required. Have you actually ever cut a rotor? I have, as it’s spins the cutting head hits the rotor then not until it’s actually level then a solid cut.

 

you would need to go to a general mechanic shouldnt cost more than 20-30 dollars for the cut but i agree some shops dont see the point in doing it anymore.

 

When I had my shop we would resurface rotors for ourself (it’s really not cut) but never for walk in’s that wanted rotors resurfaced That was the Auto store’s thing. It runs about $50 plus now each plus tax and the time to do it.

 

for that price i can see why people buy new. its been 15 years since i had some done.

 

True, the price also depends on where you’re from. It seems like things like this are a dying breed. It getting to be replace and throw away parts.

 

Ceramic is more forgiving when it comes to “installation and brake noise”.
They don’t produce as much dust or brake noise.

Semi-metallic has a slight edge over ceramic. They are usually recommended for towing.
(Not really need on a Tacoma)
They throw more brake dust and can be noisy.

I almost always recommend Ceramic on light duty trucks.
And even more so if I am installing them on someone else’s truck.
There’s less chance of brake noise, and customer complaint.

 

I think it’s possible we are just using different definitions of the term warp and wear. In fact, I’m not even sure what we are arguing about

 

It’s possible, what I’m referring to as warp is an uneven surface (like a wobble) wear would be even deterioration of a surface

 

My advice from my experience is keep a greater distance between you and the car in front of you. Most of the time that rotors are warped its because you were following too closely and had to brake hard. Mine warped from 1 single hard brake experience on a downhill. So imagine what habitually driving close to the car in front of you is likely to produce.

 

233,000 miles on my factory rotors. They have been turned and I will need new ones with the next brake job. Should be somewhere past 250,000 miles. Rear pads have been replaced once. Never touched the drums.

 

Brake pad transfer to the disc from a hard stop. Had it with my past Accord, popped the disc off and lightly scuffed it with a sanding block. And re-did a brake bed in sequence. And it could also be like someone said the lug nuts are unevenly and overly torqued.

 

you really should NEVER cut rotors, especially new ones...never heard of that, don't do it. cutting the rotors makes them thinner, they will warp in half the time it took uncut ones to warp. usually a wobbly steering wheel while braking is fixed with just new pads. if the rotor is so warped that it's causing the wobble, just replace them. you can cut them, sure, and that was the norm and probably still is but only because it was cheap to do and the amount charged for it was crazy. my brakes instructor told us to sell the service and do it but on our own cars not to, cut rotors warp FAST...seriously...just put new pads on and see if the wobble goes away, always does with mine.

but new rotors? no way man!! if your new rotors are warped return them

 

I read through this thread and it looks like the OP has gotten what he wanted and bailed?

But whatever... I'd like to know what your experience is with other vehicles. Do you go through brakes and rotors no matter what you drive? Do you drive in the mountains a lot? Do you tailgate, or accelerate hard and then brake hard to avoid rear-ending the guy in front? Warped rotors are from overheating. Fast wear is from excessive use and excess heat. I expect 70K out of pads and have gone 100K on originals.
OEM is fine but there are some really good aftermarket rotors out there. Ceramic pads take hard use better than anything else.

But again, how you drive is probably where the problem is. If you're wearing out the brakes you are probably also hard on the rest of the truck. Don't be in such a hurry.

 

95k and still on the original pads. But I also do a lot of highway driving.

 

My OEM rotors felt warped, so I replaced them with PowerStop. Very happy with PowerStop after about 10K miles. I am all on pavement, so drilled and slotted is not a problem for me.

$192 Power Stop Brake Kit For 2007-2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser, 2005-2022 Toyota Tacoma 6 Lug, 2003-2009 4Runner 12.56" Rotors - Front Carbon-Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads & Drilled Slotted Rotors Replacement, K137

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FKS28C?ie=UTF8

 

Rotors do not warp. Brake pad material transfers to the disk in an uneven manner making people think they’re warped. This happens after a hard stop when you get a lot of heat in the rotor then sit there stopped with your foot on the brake. If remain stopped after braking hard, consider putting it in park or roll as much as possible to prevent material transfer.

 

Get either OEM or a good quality aftermarket. Powerstop was the worst I have ever owned and stay away from slotted or drilled rotors. I have had great luck with Wagner rotors and always use them or OEM along with Wagner or Akebono pads. I like the Akebono a little better