Vibration when braking - usually downhill

For a while now I've noticed this but it's usually when mountain driving and braking somewhat hard. I haven't noticed it as much in town but occasionally still when braking harder.

Basically, when driving downhill and I brake to slow down it will shutter some and the steering wheel will bounce back and forth a bit. It's not horrible but the harder I brake the worse it seems. I'm at 60K miles so maybe something needs to be adjusted. However, it has been doing it for a while. I just don't drive in the mountains that often to notice it.

I did have the alignment done around 40K miles so it "shouldn't" need another one yet I wouldn't think and no weird tire wear or tracking issues.

Any idea what it could be? Thanks.

 

warped rotors.

 

Most likely slightly warped rotors. Have a mechanic check it out. If you're close to needing new brake pads I'd get it done and either have the rotors turned or replaced. My 2007 has done the same a couple of times over the last 14 years. They were able to turn my rotors and stop the issue in the past but they will need to be replaced next time.

 

After you replace your rotors (and pads), definitely read up on how to properly break them in.

 

Thanks. I think the brakes are fine still (at least not flagged at my last service) so I'd have to just have the rotors checked/turned. I don't really want to pay for brakes yet if I don't have to.

 

Good rotors are fairly cheap, I always just had them changed. Turning them saves a few dollars but then they warp faster after that.

Does anyone think differently?

 

Drive it until your pads are done. No point in new rotors with old pads. Do them together. If vibration is not bad then just keep driving. Drums can warp as well. But if you are feeling it in the steering wheel its likely one of your rotors.

Just make sure to check calipers for a sticky slide or piston. That may be the culprit of the rotor warping in the first place. If you just change a rotor without checking caliper you will just repeat the problem.

If you can find an open space (mall parking lot) coast along at 5mph. Pop truck in neutral. If its a sticky caliper truck will likely pull a little left or right. Or it will stop quicker than it should.... Or feel rims after some city driving. If one is warmer than the other its a caliper sticking. Pretty common up here on the east coast.

 

Thanks. I'll check that.

 

Yep, probably from overheating the rotors too many times. Might want to look into better rotors like drilled and slotted ones.

 

I'm in Colorado as well and I have the exact same symptoms on mine with 39k, tires are less than a year old, and I just had my alignment and tires re-balanced completed with only a slight improvement.

I'm guessing Its either warped rotors (Most likely), Needle Bearing on the driver's side (Prob throw it into 4x4 to rule out), or maybe needs a 2 Degree shim in the rear since I am lifted 2"

Only place I know of that will machine the rotors is Brakes Plus, otherwise I will likely just throw some new ones on.

 

I'll go with the warped rotor idea but I don't see how they should warp since I don't drive hard or brake hard and I don't mountain drive that much. Even when I do, I usually use the S mode and downshift to not brake as much. If it's just something that happens eventually then fine, but then lots of people should be mentioning this and I haven't seen much about it.

 

I'm not going to do this myself, so am I okay with taking it to any brake shop or should I'd be looking for someone more specialized? I'm sure the dealer is overpriced.

 

My rears do this. But only when the brakes are getting slightly above "normal" operating temp. Next time u feel them rumbling, pull the ebrake slightly and see if it's coming from the rears or fronts, it's usually easier to do at higher speeds then super slow. Obviously use discretion and if you die it's not my fault.

 

So you're recommending a bit of Tokyo drifting around town?

 

You would be surprised how easy it is to warp a rotor. Prolonged downhill braking without giving a chance to cool, braking hard from highway speed, Additional weight all can cause the issue. A seized piston in the caliper (there are 4 in each caliper) will easily cause it by not allowing breaking pressure from being removed from the pad until it wears away.

Regarding a brake shop. Go to one you trust. Alot of places don't check the calipers well enough. They will just slap on new pads and rotors and off you go. Thats fine if calipers are good. But....

DIY guys and gals can buy good name quality parts on rock auto etc. Very reasonable priced job. But service station markups with labor involved can add up quickly.

I know dealers are pricey.

Any which way you go make sure to ask for a thorough caliper inspection and service.

And try to avoid " white box" no name pads they arent the best quality. Hence the cheap price. Go with a name like raybestos or bendix etc. To extend intervals between repairs.

 

Not quite that dramatic. Just enough to engage the pads on the drums haha

 

When I got my truck

 

My 2015 DCLB front brakes were really bad. Full on shudder in the brake pedal and steering wheel. I personally replaced the pads and rotors last December (6000 miles ago) with OEM stuff. For the first ~4000 miles they felt great but now I feel the tale tell signs of rotor warp again.

Aside from overheating, could there be another reason why I'm getting this warp so quickly? Alignment? Bearings? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Thanks!

 

Aftermarket wheels? Offset?
Did symptoms coincide with any changes?

 

I think warping rotors is a misnomer. Actually what is being experienced is high and low spots due to poor metallurgy of the rotor; amplified by bouts of extreme braking. The Chinese rotors are famous for this.