Valve shims-where to buy?

my 2rz-fe engine unquestionably needs work-starting w/ a valve adjustment. Currently most of the exhaust valves are so tight I can't even get a feeler gauge in to measure clearance. I've priced shims at two of the local dealerships: one quoted "about $14 each", the other "$17-$18 each- if we have the size you need here, otherwise..." All but 2 of my exhaust valves have to be re-shimmed, also 2 intakes too tight to measure.
Who here has had to buy new shims: when, for how much $, and can you please post links or point me in the right direction?
Many thanks in advance for any info provided.

 

They are $7.50 at toyotapartsdeal.com (plus shipping). You may be able to get free shipping from somewhere else like Camelback Toyota. You have to get the part numbers for the different size shims you need.

When you measure all the clearances and take all the shims out, you may be able to move some shims around so that you don't need to replace all of them.

13753-74210 3.00mm shim

At the bottom of that page it lists other models that use the same shims, so another option would be to pull some from a junkyard, but this might be a lot of work finding the sizes you need!

4Runner 1996-2002
Avalon 1995-2004
Camry 1992-2006
Celica 1990-1999
Corolla 1993-1997
Highlander 2001-2011
MR2 1990-1995
Previa 1991-1997
RAV4 1996-2000
Sienna 1998-2007
Solara 1999-2008
Supra 1993-1998
T100 1993-1998
Tacoma 1995-2004
Tundra 2000-2005

 

You might be able to call around to different shops that work on Toyotas, some of them might keep used ones around.

I was lucky enough to have an ex-Toyota mechanic friend that had a collection.
Also, I suggest you remove the exhaust cam when you do this since you need to change so many. I changed all of my exhaust shims and wish I had pulled the cam after it was done.

 

When I did mine I don't think I was able to reuse any of my existing shims. They were just all too thick to get the clearance I needed.

At a picknpull type place it wouldn't be too much work just the pull the cams and start stealing shims. I'd bring a caliper so you could get a good collection.

 

this is where pizza and beer come in to play... like suggested above find a local shop and see if they will put up with you coming and going for pizza and beer... it is cheaper in the long run.

I had an off road shop that I knew the owner very well... desert season starts and it is 3 deep at the counter and I walk in... Tracy says what do you need Mark and I tell him... one guy in the crowd says why does HE get preferental treatment. Tracy looks over his glasses and says "because he brings me beer" everyone laughed but the guy complaining.

 

wow, what a bunch of awesome - and helpful- and funny! replies! ....I realized after I posted (as I was drifting off to sleep) that I hadn't run a forum search for this subject and I figured I was going to get seriously flamed. And I would have deserved it, some. If you read this and thought about it, thanks for your forebearance.

@DrZ I am feeling absolutedly blown away by your reply. Not only did you give a site link with lower prices than ANY I've come up with on my own, the junkyard suggestion with all those specific details (info I probably couldn't have compiled if I had a month of Sundays to do it)....well,I think you're my new hero. Thank you from the bottom of my heart: I will be at the recyclers' gate early Thursday morning with a copy of this Forum chat and my tools.

@nzbrock: lol, I thought removing the cam might simplify the process and I was going to do a 'poll' to see if I was on the right track. I think I can skip the poll. And that's a fantastic suggestion on bringing a caliper. That's the kind of thing I'd typically think of too late, right about the time I got to the picknpull, 40 minutes from home. Come to think of it, I'll bring one of my micrometers: the cheapie I bought at Ace Hardware, not the Starrett.

@Glamisman: I cracked up when I read your reply- what a great story, skillfully told and obviously true!

Thank you so much, all three of you, for taking the time and effort to reply. (and for going so easy on me). Y'all totally made my day. Any of you wind up near Sacramento some day please let me know 'cause I'd love to buy you a beer-or three-or whatever your beverage of choice happens to be.

 

Motorcycle forums usually put together a 'travelling' kit that get sent around the country. People add to it, people take away and on it goes to the next. It could be outfitted with the fulcrum/ maybe a short bent screwdriver for the rear one that is hard to get to......maybe the front, I don't remember.
Anyway. We really should make this happen. Los of old Corolla and Camry engines out there to rob. I looked though and all I have at the moment is 1 engine worth from a Corolla. No telling how many I threw away not knowing they would interchange way back in the '90s and -00s when I did a lot of car flipping

Put them in a 32 slot organizer from Wal-Mart and it will flat rate everywhere.

EDIT: it would need to be put on a "sticky" on top of the page so people could add themselves to a list.
Just have to make sure the list doesn't get too far ahead of the uses and that people undertake in a timely matter.
The idea works BUT it's usually learned NOT to send it to a member who only joined to do their valves. That's when they 'disappear'.
Maybe have to have a years membership or 50 posts or whatever.

 

Yet another great idea. I'll get an organizer and start the collection-and make it available as soon as my truck's back on the road.

 

ONE hopefully FINAL QUESTION :

The FSM has two different charts for the shims, as do the various parts suppliers I've checked: one for intake, one for exhaust. Presumably this means they are not interchangeable, i.e. shims from intake valves can't be used on exhaust valves or vice versa. Is that 'presumption' correct?

 

We need to get the dimensions for the fulcrum, cut one out and throw it in there also.
There's really no reason to pull cams for this. They come out fine w/o doing so. A magnet is nice to have 'just in case'.

edit: nah they're interchangable as are the springs.

If you're willing to open it up twice, you'll prob. find you can ask on here for sizes you need and get them free.


Oh carp, I just noticed you have a 4 cyl. Don't listen to me........somone else know about this?

 

Most dealers stock them, mine has a big bin thats never touched anymore.

 

@gunny1005 can get you as good if not better prices like I mentioned before than other online retailers.

 

Yea I know you don’t have to pull the cam, but if you are replacing all of the exhaust valves it would save a lot of time and trouble. The exhaust cam can come out very easily without upsetting timing. The intake cam gets a little trickier since it has the chain on it.

 

Yes, exhaust and intake shims are interchangeable. There are just two charts in the repair manual because the clearances are different.

If you take the exhaust cam off remember to put the service bolt into the timing gear. The exhaust timing gear is actually two gears with one spring loaded. This design keeps it quieter. Do a search for more info if you don't know what I'm talking about.

That link I posted lists the models and engines. Some of those models may have 2 or 3 different engines, so there's a chance that only one of the possible engines has the same shims. But that link lists the engines along with the model, so with that info you should be good at the junkyard.

It would be good to know what sizes you need first as it might be hard to find all the sizes you need. I guess if you're fast at ripping the camshafts off and just grabbing the shims it could be worth your time.

Someone has said that from the factory the shims were in increments of 0.01mm, but you can only get shims in increments of 0.05mm from the dealer, so grabbing some from the junkyard may actually get you better matches to the sizes you need, although the clearance specs give a range, so it might not be too important.

 

If you want to get janky and cheap you can make them thinner yourself. Glass and sandpaper. I'm just curious about why they would be so tight. If you can't get a feeler gauge between the cam and shim your valve won't be fully closing, that's a reallly worn valve seat

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/537378-grinding-valve-shims/

 

For those who don't have a metric feeler gauge or don't like to do a lot of cipherin' by hand.

http://www.crfsonly.com/calculators/crf450-valve-shim-calc.php

 

I haven't checked mine, but they are due to be checked. I'd be interested in this if it can be worked out.

 

I have the tools and would be willing to donate them to the kit.

$13 Motion Pro 08-0019 Valve Shim Tool for Kawasaki KZ

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WJDXD0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Schley Products 88250 Valve Adjusting Tools

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014DF1AG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

hello all. Sorry if it seems I dropped the ball on this project-I assure you that is not the case. I did go to "Pick -n -Pull" (shudder) and have a number of shims, nearly all the same thickness (more on that later) and in two different diameters. I also (as suggested) picked up a small parts storage box in which to keep and ship the shims. Heck, I'm even donating the shims outta my motor ....
Unfortunately this project is on hold until after I install a NEW cylinder head -as well as a buttload of other new parts-on my truck. Head has been ordered and is on its way..... Hopefully I'll get it back on the road before my hand goes under the surgeons' knife 10 days from now 'cuz I won't be doing any wrenching-or much of anything else-for some months after that. (wish me luck) I figure it'll be another month or so before I'll be able to get back to the shim project .

Many thanks for all your replies and suggestions-you guys rock!

@nzbrock I'll pm you re: the tools, thanks again!

now I gotta go update my last thread because yup, "is this even possible?" is,indeed, possible.

 

How did all of this turn out? How’s your hand?