Valve cover and semi-circular plug removal question

I’m just finishing up a valve adjustment on my 3RZ and I can’t seem to figure out how to remove the semi-circular plugs (AKA half-moons). I tried grabbing on to it with pliers, but it seemed pretty solid and the one on the exhaust side has the distributor gear in the way so access with pliers is difficult. Any ideas?

I haven’t been able to find the torque spec for the valve cover bolts anywhere. I’m considering just snugging it up and keeping a close eye on the grommets to make sure they don’t deform. Anyone know the torque spec for the VC bolts?

When I replace the valve cover should I use FIPG anywhere? It had some above the semi-circular plugs, but they are not currently installed perfectly flush.

 

Permatex only on the half-moon plugs. I had to use a brass punch and whack it with a hammer to knock mine out, they've got a ledge on em so they have to come straight up to get em out the easiest


Otherwise buy new gasket washers for the valve cover and use a new valve cover gasket, think I did 12 in-lbs on em. I would also order and install new spark plug tube seals while you're at it

 

I will give your method a try. Sounds like it could work. I was thinking of giving it a whack with a hammer somehow, but I've learned to be careful with forcing stuff too much. Did the tube seals, have a new gasket, grommets and bolts too. New plugs, wires, PCV and 11 new shims installed. Several were at the limit for the gap specs, so it's a good thing I'm taking care of it now with 206K.

 

That’s good old FIPG holding those plugs in. They will come out and you should replace them if they are original. Also a dab of FIPG in the sharp ‘corners’ of the VC gasket where it humps over the cam.

 

I used a set of pliers and wiggle it to get it loose.

DONT DO THAT,

I broke off that little lip by wiggling it back and forth.

Pull straight up!,,,,

Or buy two and have them on hand, 8.00 each or so

 

Good on you for doing that yourself!
I used to get paid to do that and I still didn’t enjoy it. Those bucket tappets can be a pain in the ass. Solid engine. We’re you able to swap some shims around?

 

If you have a dremel with a wire wheel it will make short work of cleaning all the old gasket material off
for a better fit

 

Yes! Use some stork needle nose pliers
Like this and twist and pull up

 

Needle nose are not ideal here.

What I used and what I recommend are a pair of slip jaw pliers. I concur with the pulling straight up. Protect your half moons by putting some masking tape over the jaws of the pliers if you’d like to.

 

I used the large pliers like these,

JUST Pull straight up, I wiggled mine just a little and I couldn’t believe that two small sections snapped off, they fit in a groove is why

 

If it's held in that tightly then what's the point of removing it just to seal it again? I guess some people will say after 20+ years the sealant will deteriorate, so it's better to proactively reseal it, but I wonder.

 

I’m going to give this one to you as I was doing this back in the late 90’s! They weren’t petrified back then.

 

@1997 Good tip on the wiggle, thanks! I don’t have a dremel so I guess it’s gonna be elbow grease for me.

Thanks! I enjoy it, but don’t know if I’d like doing it as a job. I did get some new half moons too. I decided to order all new shims, I think I could have swapped about 5 of them. I was running out of time to order and get them the next day so I just ordered all 11. Turned out to be a good thing too as I had two that didn’t hit my target, but I was able to use the two of the old ones. Beer is chilling!

 

@Abeyancer knows the best and easiest way to remove these but didn’t mention that you need to put the punch point on one side of the half moon and gently tap it, this will break the old sealer and rotate it out easy every time, in fact so easy that ya gotta be careful not to loose control of it and have it end up lost on the trans/frame/skid plate.

 

That sounds like the best tip yet! The little tidbit about where to place the punch seems key. Thanks!

 

Great addition!

 

I considered leaving them in, but several people online seem to have developed leaks there after a gasket replacement and I bought new plugs as a better safe than sorry sort of thing. I think they were $8. Also, whoever put them in there didn't get the tops flush. When I saw that I decided to replace them for sure.

 

They left the tops all cock eyed?! Savages
I enjoyed my VC gasket change on my 5VZ. Took my time and resealed everything I had access to. Did it last august 2020, no leaks or issues since. Slow is smooth and smooth is fast.

 

I just successfully finished this job. PRO TIP: Don't consider "snugging up" anything - torque spec for VC cover bolts is 53 INCH/lbs, not FOOT/lbs. Tighten them in a crossing pattern like you're putting the head on and do 2 or 3 passes. It's as important that all the bolts have equal torque on them as it is to tighten them to the right spec. Never guess about torque - invest in a couple of wrenches, it's worth it! I realize the following is for the 5VZ-FE engine but there is a lot of valuable material here nonetheless. I followed this thread (Thanks a lot, ramonortiz55) which has all replacement parts and torque specs included. I also can't recommend this video enough - very thorough and lots of detailed information. I'm a week out with no leaks anywhere and engine purring like a kitten. Good luck!

 

I have everything to do this job...I'm just dreading it since it looks like such a pain in the ass for these engines.

While I'm in there, I'm also going to check the valve lash. Hope it's all within spec so that I don't have to reshim any of them. But honestly won't be surprised if some are tight since the engine has 200k on it.