Valve "buckets" ?

Hey ya'all.. as stated in my previous post, im into a head gasket job and it is proven to be more than i wantednto get into, but here i am..
Removed the driver side head , all went as good as can be expected, alot of dismantle and pictures. Fairly confident i can get it back together. Now im i to the inner workings though..
After removing the head, i tipped it over to check out the bottom and of course the "buckets" fell out. Not at all confident they went back in the same spots they came out, how fucked am i?
Thanks

 

Not fucked at all. You’re going to want to get a feeler gauge and a manual, then go back and measure the clearance on each valve to ensure they’re in spec.

 

This, but exhaust valve clearances are greater than intake, so if you mixed the two banks you might have to switch a few around to get into spec.

Intake: 0.13-0.23mm
Exhaust: 0.27-0.37mm

 

Hello darkness my old friend.

 

So thats after the cams are back in? Correct?
Only othe truck ive fone heads and the timing ect on was a 82, well and an 83 22r

 

Ok. So ive got it on the bench, about to torqe the cam bolts (cant recall the names of tthem) .. off to the parts store for feeler gauges. I didnt find anything on my quuck search, but i i.agine if i line up the dots on the sprocket,so there is no pressure on the bucket. Is how i check the clearance. Correct?

 

Yes cams need to be reinstalled, and yes you are measuring when the lobes are not pushing down on the tops of the shims. You will need to rotate the cams in order to measure all of them

 

Yeah you turn the camshaft by turning the crankbolt. Do not attempt to do it turning the camshaft. Generally you want the lobe to be pointing straight upwards on the valve you are trying to measure. Also note that you can measure more than one valve at a time. I also found bent feeler gauges to be easier to use for lash measurements. You should measure everything and then mix and match the shims to save you some money then buy ones that you need.

 

Also, if you can get to a local pick and pull that has any Toyota motors from that same era, they basically all used the same valve shims. You can probably snag a big handful for next to nothing and might have enough to get all your valves within spec without ordering any and waiting on them. I found a 4runner engine torn open with the valve covers off and got a nice haul in about an hour.

 

Thanks all, red taco, that my man, is a great idea! There is no pick and pull here, but surely i can find a toyota in the bushes somewhere!
I feel pretty good i can sort this out, i was kind of pissed off before. Thanks all!!
Heads up.. called the machine shop today to get my heads checked out. Ill see if i cant remember to keep you guys updated. Im sure i will run into another issue somewhere along that i will need ya alls help on

 

Well.. took my heads to the shop for inspection, figured id just let them do the valve job, pressure check and re surface. Make it easy for me. Turns out my head is cracked. So now on to hunt for a doner vehicle i the bushes to salvage a head!

 

You can buy a totally assembled and refurb head if you want to save some time and not worry about it being cracked.

 

I looked into getting a new rebuilt head. Being in hawaii there is an awefull shipping rate and time. But tacomas are EVERYWHERE! Im sure a guy will have a good one for me! Thanks though mike!

 

New question of the day.
I can seem to get my crank pully nut off. Anyone try to starter bumb trick with the heads and water pump and the whole business already disconnected? Should be just the same right, starter and battery is all the really needs connectrd, correct?

 

Hey guys.. update, got a doner head and took it to the shop, good to go. Put all back together the last week (aftrr work, its been exhausting)
All seems good now, EXCEPT, of couse there is an "except" my idle is high and there is a electrical connector that gas no male counter part...assuming they are connected somehow, but i cannot seem to find the other end of this connector!! Any thoughts? Thanks

 

Looks like cam position sensor

 

Seems it was the AC connection which doesnt even work!! Haha.. but i apparently failed at a crank shaft seal!! Looks like im doing another timing belt job now!
So after digging around the internet, i thonk i need to remove the trnsioner entirely, then use a vise to close it enough to @get the li/tle pin back in?

 

Did reconnecting that sensor wire fix the high idle?

 

Red_03Taco
Connecting the ac did not fix the idle. I went through it with brake clean and checked the connections. I guess something is mis connected, or the intake gasket is put on sheety , but i reay dont think thats the issue, how do you F that up!? Im gonna start looking around for another 97 and ask to compare.
Good news is i fixed my crank seal. (Changed it anyways, feeling good about it) The first one didnt stand i chance! Was pretty easy!

 

Yo yo, digging around TACOMA WORLD i found a thread that tells NOT to clean the throttle body ! Think i may have found my high idle issue!!
That thread recommended a guy at Maxbore, i believe..
Question... hownwould boreing my throttle body to the max effect my gas mileage? Thanks ya all