Using T-Track for a Topper Rack

Anyone ever use t-track as a track system instead of a Yakima track or something similar for mounting to the top of their topper? I've been throwing around the idea and wanted to see if anyone else has gone this route.

This is what I've been looking at.

2 Pack 48" T-Track for Woodworking with Screws, Aluminum Alloy Woodworking Tools Double Cut Profile Universal T-Tracks with Predrilled Mounting Holes

T-track

$16 MOTO4U Cargo Angled End Cap for L Track Tie-Down Rail End Caps End Plug Cap Enclosed Trailer Cargo Van Trailer Track Plugs Square -4Packs

End Caps

 

A lot of folk use Unistrut to make roof racks for toppers. I just made a awning mounting base for mine

 

You should have some sort of interior support to bolt that to. That is the main concern. No problem for a "commerical" ARE or LEER but a fiberglass topper with no interior support would be sketchy in my opinion.
Others may disagree. LMAO
Zim

 

I use these personally for universal applications. Through bolt with big fender washers on the inside and nylock nuts. Let us know if you need some assistance or help sourcing anything.

https://offroadalliance.com/Front-Runner-Universal-Track-Non-Drilled1800MM--TRAC010/

 

Thanks for that link and the offer, it's very much appreciated. I'm not knocking anyone's choices but I'm not seeing the value over something very similar which is about the quarter of the cost which was my same thought with the thule rails. Their outside shape is different (rounded in most cases) but that's insignificant to me as long as the alternative isn't ugly and can handle the application. I'm only considering this route because I think rail kits are way overpriced for basically 2 pieces of flat extruded alum which is cheap in almost any other application. I get it if someone needs to mount a specific accessory that's only compatible with a specific system or the alternative compromises strength. I'm not under that constraint and I think T track is as strong if not stronger since it's solid. The rails you linked to are along the lines I'd consider (universal) but IMO it's still overpriced for what you're getting. It's not that I can't drop the coin and I may end up going that route in the end but I'd like to explore/discuss the possibilities.

This is just me but building something from parts and figuring out a solution is far more rewarding then dropping some coin for an engineered solution esp. when I consider the latter overpriced, add to that I'm retired with lots of time. I'll typically choose that route 9 out of 10 times when it's feasible, economical and safe. It doesn't alway pay off but most of the time is does.

This was one of my exercises along those lines, I wanted a sand rail didn't like the kits that were available so I scratch built my own. Cost was less then the kit and has a laundry list of advantages and improvements over any kit I could buy. None of this stuff is rocket science and it kind of ticks me off when a company puts stupid prices on something that would be a quarter of the cost in another industry. Rant over

 

I agree if the application exceeds the weight limits the manufacturer put on a rack system attached to their topper. The model of ARE that I have has a limit of 200# from what I can find . Since I have a 5.5' bed I've considered a hard shell RTT for it, I'd definitely add metal reinforcements if I go that route. If I just use it as a rack to hold stuff it's not going to be close to the 200#. This idea is the first step in that effort, not sure if I'll go with a RTT but I need a rack up there either way.

 

What would a person use for a cross bar with a T-track?

 

10/20 extrusions, same thing prinsu and others use.

 

Thanks, freak, the link was most helpful.

 

So, I ordered some Rhino rack RTC style roof racks-channel mount and T slotted aluminum extrusions. But I was thinking how will I attach the extrusions to the Rhino rack? Is it possible to use just hardware or is a bracket required?

 

Since the track will sit right on the topper I want a little rise for the crossbars. One idea is to take 2 of

$17 Yeebyee Inside Corner Bracket Gusset 2 Hole with M5 Screws and T-Nuts, 25mm x 25mm for 6mm Slot 2020 Series Aluminum Extrusion Profile,20pcs/Pack (2020 Series-Black)

these brackets, bolt them together back to back with one inverted. It will take 2 for each end of the crossbars. This will lift the bottom of the crossbar 20mm above top edge of the tracks, probably 25~27mm above the fiberglass so low profile. That's the spacing I plan to use, it can be taller and or the base made wider by switching from a 1:1 corner bracket to a 1:2 style.

For the Rhino rack, you probably want to use something like this (SS) to place into the rhino track to attach bolt the brackets down, some SS Hardware to attach the 2 corner brackets together. As for attaching the bracket to the alum extrusions you want SS hardware that fits an extrusion slot nut or slot insert with threaded holes. There's a wide variety of 2020 hardware out there, you have to search around a little though, one source is 8020.com Amazon has allot also.