Using anti-seize on caliper mounting bolts.

A few weeks ago I replaced a stripped wheel stud and had a tough time removing the caliper mounting bolts. When reinstalling the caliper mounting bolts I applied a thin line of anti-seize on both before torquing them down. Would you have any concerns using anti-seize on the bolts?

 

I'm a professional and I do it 100% of the time. There no need for concern. If anything it improves torque accuracy.

I use thin layer on the slider pins at the friction points as well. Edge of the pads against the caliper. Again, small amounts so it doesn't boil and bleed onto brake components.

 

I live in the rust belt. I anti-seize everything that gets taken apart. Never had any bolts fall out or break because of it.

 

i use antisieze in conjunction with lock tight. don't want that puppy coming off.

 

Anti seize will effect your torque settings, keep it off the threads.

 

No. Relax

 

I use anti seize on everything. Suspension, brakes, salads, pork chops, toilet bowls, spark plugs, and off shore accounts.

 

Thanks, Your comment holds more weight being a professional and will take my mind off the what-ifs. I will be replacing pads and rotors soon, so will take your advice.

 

No your bolts will not fall out of you use anti seize. You might put a little on the edge of the new rotor too. About 2 weeks after I got my new (2011) I removed the rear drums and smeared them down with anti seize figuring one day I may want to get them off.

 

Thank you for everyone's advice and taking the time to comment, Merry Christmas and happy New year to all!

 

Pull off your caliper bolts and tell me how clean the threads are, the torque specs are designed for new bolts in new knuckles.

Reinstalling rusty bolts back into knuckles always requires more force.

Even if you clean the threads to the bolts you can't ensure the inside of the knuckle is clean.

The lubricant takes away the unwanted resistance and gives a cleaner torque.

We aren't talking oiled bolts (wet torque vs dry), this is a dab of anti-seize.

 

ok

 

Just chiming in as a 20+ year professional mechanic too. We joke about the difference between the New England edition of repair manuals vs. other places is to go through the instructions and replace 'loctite' with 'anti-seize'. Absolutely not a problem, and as correctly said, will get you a real world torque that is closer to what the idiots in the hermetically sealed chamber wanted (auto engineers).

 

Anti seize is generally OK but you use the "wet" specs if available. Otherwise, reduce torque by about 10%; otherwise the clamping force will be beyond specs.
I have this chart handy near my work bench as a reference guide.
http://electronicfilters.tpub.com/TM-10-4330-237-13P/css/TM-10-4330-237-13P_105.htm

 

Wet is often oiled bolts, cylinder head bolts are an example. Thread anti seize doesn't behave quite the same, and often is to overcome corrosion. I would always use factory specs with anti-seize.

 

Whenever possible, I run a thread chaser on bolts and nuts (not a tap or die) to clean up the threads. Then a good coating of anti-seize......

 

Watch this video
https://youtu.be/O96AUlIBkU8

 

I use anti-seize mixed with some motor oil to thin it out on most everything. I have never had a problem with bolts falling out. Once torqued they stay there.

 

It's the head of the fastener that keeps the bolt tight once its torqued, not the threads. Anti-seize won't hurt anything.

I havent used a torque wrench on caliper bolts in years. When you wrench for a living you learn how to feel when a fastener is getting stretched too much. No math required..