Upgraded Sound System Still Crackling and Dull

Hey guys,

I’ve been driving my 19’ Tacoma for the past few years running stock speakers, but there was a lack of bass and crackling at higher volume that made it sound bad. My solution… new speakers.

The setup I chose was Kicker CS series front and rear door speakers with the DS18 PRO tweeters and an under seat sub. Stock non-JBL head unit. EQ is set in the middle. Sound deadening material applied to all doors.

The new speaker setup was quite disappointing and not worth the time and $750 on equipment. It’s nothing like everything I’ve seen people talk about. The crackling still exists at higher volume, the kicker bass was disappointing and there is little sound coming from the rear door speaker even when I adjust the leveler all the way to the rear; it sounds like it’s running at 10 volume when it’s set to max. The whole system is just missing this different kick to sound quality that everyone talks about.

Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions as how to make this better?

 

Thoughts….

Crackling and lack of bass, the stock H/U. At higher volumes, it clips causing the sound you’re hearing. The lack of bass is the all pass filter applied to the outputs, toning down the bass as the volume goes up. Stupid, but it keeps factory speakers alive.

The rear speakers do next-to-nothing on the factory headunit because that’s how it’s set up. It absolutely cripples the rear outs. Only solution is, unfortunately, a new H/U, sorry about your wallet.

The underseat sub. I’ve never set one up, but to help others who have, how’d you wire it for signal, front or rear speakers? How did you set the gain?

And welcome to TW.

 

There’s your problem. The head units don’t put out crap for power. You can get an amp to help it, but you are just taking a crap signal and making it louder. A new head unit isn’t going to be cheap, and you may lose some functionality (I have an SR, so is all I lost is the ability to change the color on the little display between the gauges), but I would highly recommend looking into it.

 

Thanks for the help ZMan2k2 and Puppypunter. New HU sounds expensive but I might have to bite the bullet on that. Do you think that it will eliminate the clipping on the speakers as well? If so, what do you guys recommend in the way of a new HU?

As for the under seat sub I used the add an amp wiring harness from Amazon. Gain is adjusted using two screws on the adapter for the L and R channels. I tried to find which line the adapter taps into but nobody seems to know the real answer. I will keep looking, and if I find anything I’ll update you.

Thank you all for your help!

 

We’re are you located?

 

Like I’m going to just say that:

Generally, crackle in one speaker, probably the speaker and crackle in all speakers, probably not the speakers. If you normally run the volume at or more than 2/3 of the maximum setting you need more power/handling.

Also generally, Amazon wiring harnesses and LOCs are nope.

Also generally, throwing Kickers on the factory stereo is nope.

Also, because apparently it’s still some kind of difficult to find Easter Egg even though I’ve posted it at least 6 times, rear factory radio output:



Solution to keeping factory non-JBL radio is a JL FiX, period. Solution to replace the factory radio is a Kenwood or Pioneer and Maestro RR, period.

When upgrading always remember: Good | Fast | Cheap - Pick Two

Never choose equipment based on ease of installation.

If you don’t know how to install stereo equipment, you can reasonably expect that a shop will be able to do no worse than you could, but also there’s no guarantee they will be better either.

If you don’t know where to start, what tools you need, or how things should be done, watch a fuck ton of Dean and Fernando videos.

When you get stuck on something Toyota specific, this is the right place to come.

 

I’m still trying to figure out how kicker CS and sound deadening added up to $750

 

Like @dolbytone said, if you decide to swap H/U watch the “5starcaraudio” vids on YT for the ones you’re considering. They’ll show you the clipping point in the vids, helping you decide.

dolbytones’ chart of “Good<->Fast<->Cheap” applies to damn near everything in electronics. When you buy a new phone, what’s the criteria? Should be the same for your H/U.

 

@destin_meeks it’s not just the CS speakers and sound deadening… CS speakers cost $240, Tweeters cost $80, Sub and install equipment cost $230, Sound deadening cost $40, Door speaker extension brackets and coaxial harness connector cost $65, and front and rear seat jackets for sub clearance cost $130.

 

@dolbytone Thank you for the help, I am going to look into that now!