Undercoating/Rust Prevention

people saying fluid film, wool wax washes off easily... has never tried to wash off lanolin hand lotion with just water, and nothing else.

will it look like it is gone? maybe but, the residue is there until a suitable solvent, soap is utilized to remove it, completely.

FF and WW have other petroleum items in the formula, making it even more difficult to fully remove with water only.

those saying applying it yearly is a waste of their time, just doesnt understand there is no one and done rustproofing.

RUST NEVER SLEEPS! and you need to keep up on the maintenance of anything metal to prevent it from rusting/rotting. it is what it is. small price to pay to protect the money you have into the vehicle. Ski

 

Cool, must be a good feeling to know that your work is still referenced and proven in the field.

Any knowledge, experiences, guidance, that you are allowed say, that your willing to share?

 

The one time applications suck, do Krown rustproofing, for the win!

 

Cosmoline by itself is considered a "Barrier" style corrosion protection.
It just blocks oxygen and electrolytes from reaching the alloys that will allow the chemical reaction of corrosion to happen.
It will slow down Galvanic corrosion (two different metals in contact) by removing the oxygen but cannot stop the passing of electrons between metals in contact.
It does not neutralize/convert any existing corrosion/oxides, just stops it by removing oxygen.

Cosmoline in its "raw state" is like a hard wax/soft varnish. It needs heat or a solvent mixed in so it can be applied.
You'd have to really heat it up or thin it out with a lot of solvent to be able to soak into the tiniest of places.
Then you would not have sufficient coating thickness in high spray areas.

Fluid film and Woolwax are also considered Barrier coatings. They are non-reactive/inert.

The Red Rust Check oil, Transmission fluid, ACF-50, are all petroleum based ACTIVE anti-corrosion formulas.
They are all quite thin and will wick into very tiny spaces.
They will also neutralize any existing rust, and prevent new corrosion or galvanic corrosion
(by using a sacrificial ingredient the give up it's electrons)
But since they are so thin, they won't last against spray.

That is why I use 2 types in my "anti-corrosion methodology".


Oh, words of advice for anyone applying cosmoline based coatings themselves.

1. Wash off the item as best you can before applying, (don't powerwash near electrical connectors on the underside)
yes cosmoline does not come off what it attaches to... but if that is dirt, the dirt will fall off.
2. Do not spray over other loose coatings. (as mentioned above Fluid film or woolwax) or water based coatings that has not dried, "soap style" or any film you can wipe off (fluid film) etc that the cosmoline was sprayed onto
So your loosing one of the major benefits of cosmoline.
3. For your sake and sanity and I can't stress this enough,
Cover your HAIR, FACE, EXPOSED SKIN, EYES
and wear crappy cloths.
Yes you can use a solvent like Varsol or Gas to "clean it off" with a lot of scrubbing but...
You'll not get it completely out of your hair or skin pores for a long time...
even after a lot of scrubbing and soap afterwards....
Lol you have been warned.


We have to remember that on a typical road the underside is sprayed with a combination of; (depending where you are)
water, diluted: engine oil, windshield washer fluid, transmission fluid, salt, gravel, beet juice, coal ash, battery acid, etc.
and don't forget the occasional critter...

Nothing is forever.

 

Problem is it isn't just plain water that wash's away lanolin based rust inhibitors, its the salt, and what other stuff from the roads mixed in helping it.
Its like being power washed, and sand blasted at the same time driving at highway speeds. I agree nothings perfect, but you try to find the best solution for your area.

 

'Pro' tip- get a cheapie throw away pillow from wally world to lay your head on when under the truck spraying it down.

Honestly though-if I could have paid someone to do this here in California I would have. Zero options for rust proofing in these parts.

 

^this right here believe me when I say I live in the rust belt and my state loves salt brine and puts in on whenever they can. Have only ever FF my undercarriage and it still looks new. My FF does not wash off in most places still just as sticky as when first applied. Me reapplying yearly just keeps building it up.

 

The only spot it washes off on my truck is the cab mount in the front wheel well, but the woolwax version lasted the whole year there without reapplication.

 

They recommend the treatment every year.

 

Exactly. Keeps them in business. Its just that some need to be reapplied way more often to still be effective. If i get 5 years out of using 1 application of rp-342 cosmoline thats a win.

 

Maybe so, I am sure that I am getting the protection and not wait 5 years and discover rust underneath the treatment. I would rather be safe than sorry. I planning on keeping this Taco forever. Just saying.

 

I started using Krown a couple years ago on my last truck that i bought new. It worked pretty good considering truck was not garaged, but i did try to keep it washed when we had some warm spells over winter. It did get a couple very small rusty spots on frame above rear wheels where it was exposed, and on the leading edges of lower front control arms. I think this was caused mostly from the paint being chipped from rocks, and the coating getting thinned out due to the direct spray from road and washing. I think the plan for my new Tacoma is to use cosmoline on the frame and suspension parts, then still have the Krown done afterward, as it will creep into inaccessible areas. Has anyone using Krown on their tacoma had any cel issues after having it done? My last truck did,(ford) as well as a few other ranger owners had the pressure switch on top of fuel tank go bad after having the Krown applied. Does anyone know if the tacoma is susceptible to this?

 

I inspect my truck's undercoating ever spring if an issue. So far don't see any need to reapply. Looks the same as 2 years ago.

 

This thread is the first I've heard of ACP-50. It seems to be quite popular with the motorbike set, along with XCP. Odd that there is a complete disconnect with what is popular with the vehicle set, as it doesn't appear lanolin or cosmoline products are popular with the motorbike influencers. Maybe it's an issue with vehicle underbodies being unseen, so there is no downside to using a messy corrosion inhibitor.

I like fluid film for areas not exposed to heavy spray, and cosmoline for those areas that do get hit hard.

 

Hi where are you located? Do you drive in salt and brine every day? Would you mind posting a pic? I am a bit OCD about vehicles and love the idea of driving my Taco in the snow but am a bit concerned having fought rust and losing the battle many years ago.

 

I use an undercarriage spray from a detail supplier and do this every year. Still looks new, $50 for a 5 gallon bucket.

 

Im in Ct where we apply what seems like Hydrofluoric Acid on the roads. Steel seems to rot out in one seasons from exposure.

I think about any of the aforementioned is better than nothing for reducing corrosion, and I do agree that rubber can crack and hold in the road crap that will accelerate corrosion. With that said, I have been using fluid film in the garage for many years as a preservative for parts I don't want to rust in storage. Its OK, and better than nothing, and a whole lot easier to apply than engine oil, but its not perfect, and it doesn't seem to hold up well to abrasive abuse. When I spray my mower deck its gone on one mow. Not sure what that means to anyone, just my experience, and certainly not an apples to apples for frame preservative, but I can say it smells horrible for sure.

I like the wax type coatings best and have tried several. On my Sprinter the van came heavily waxed from there factory and after 300,000 miles it only rusted where there was no wax. I have no idea what the brand is.

After a lot of research I decided to go with Dinitrol. It's widely used in Europe, and seems to be a quality product. Company is 70 years old, and go too for industrial and heavy commercial applications. Its not cheap, but I think the finished coating is worth it. Its even and doesn't drip in the heat, and looks to be a light touch up product over time more than a full replication every year, and not a goopy mess like some of the other products. There are different products for different parts of the vehicle as well. Chemicals cost about $500 for full application, and the two aplication guns were another $250.So at $750 it's a premium price point product at least.

When I get my new truck I plan to apply this at my first opportunity. I may do a video, but I'll be back to post pics. if I ever get my truck.

https://www.dinitroldirect.com/product-information-downloads/

I purchased it from this place. Craig was super helpful:

https://bustedautoparts.com

Mike

 

I use Krown. Parents have for many years as well, never had an issue. Krown did rockers on my dads 03 f250 after they bubbled at 12 years old.

 

Ontario here. Nothern Ontario uses a fuck ton of sand. Southern Ontario loves their salt.

 

Even cosmoline eventually needs minor touchups in those hard hit areas where you get a lot of spray. Its still far better on the rest of the chassis that doesn't. I don't ever see it wearing off there.