Undercoating a new truck?

Hey all, I just got my hands on a new 2022 Tacoma TRD Off-Road! I want to start it's (hopefully) long life off by preparing it properly for a very salty Ohio winter.
I've done some research and have decided on using PB Blaster's Surface Shield as a lanolin/wax under coating to prevent corrosion. I was wondering if anyone had any input on the matter, or experiences with the product.

Thanks,

Max M.

 

I used it on mine. One can goes a long way. I removed the spare to have access to the brackets
back there. I plan to wash underneath every year and do it again.
Only time will tell how good it works but I've seen good reviews.
I wish the straw was longer but still get a good blast out with the straw. Shake
the can well.
I waxed the truck when I was finished because you'll get a mist overspray. I like to keep it waxed anyway. I'll probably take advantage of this weather and do it again this week.
It doesn't harden like undercoating and that's good IMHO.
Congrats and welcome to TW. Nice truck!
I'm in NE Ohio.

 

Cosmolene 342 black

 

How many cans did you end up using to get full coverage?

 

Or just get the fluid film by a gallon and the fancy gun with the wands and be done with it. Cheaper than individual cans in the long run.

 

My experience with lanolin based rust inhibiters over the last 20 years is they suck for salty wet roads unless you keep applying them at least twice a year. So far for our new england winter, rp-342 cosmoline will hold up by far the best. I've got over 2 years on my 2020 and its still 99% there. A lanolin based rust inhibiter would have been mostly gone in 4-5 months needing to be reapplied.

 

Used 7 - 11.6 oz cans of fluid film on mine this fall. Covered everything including the u joints, driveshaft, and rear end. Don't miss above the spare, inside the doors, tailgate, and all of the lil holes on the bottom of the leading edge of the hood. Have seen some pics of rust bubbles coming from there on 16 and 17 trucks. Pulled the fender liners and got the underside of the fenders also. And one last one is the cover the brake lines from the master cylinder to the soft lines. They will always rust in the long run. Smells like a hot wax candle for a couple of days....but no rust!

And do it at least every fall when warm. That way it moves into the cracks everywhere.

 

I did waxoyl undercoating from a local Toyota dealer, 800 dollars and lifetime touch ups. Although if you go that route make sure they're properly equipped to get it everywhere.

Otherwise I've heard good things about fluid film.

 

With a brand new truck I vote for Cosmoline, do a good job this year and inspect/touch up every fall.

https://www.cosmolinedirect.com/cosmoline-rp-342-heavy-spray-military-grade-rust-preventive/

 

You need to pull the front air dam, and engine shield also to get those power steering lines, and steel frame components. Don't forget to remove the rear bumper covers to get at those steel brackets around the hitch where salt, and ice collect during the winter. Btw, if on salty wet roads for months in winter, fluid flim sucks...it wash's off pretty quick. You need something like cosmoline that can take the abrasion from rain and slush at highway speeds.

 

You're right, that is an important aspect, but I'm a bit wary of cosmoline because of what I've seen regarding how difficult it is to remove... I guess that is desirable because that means its a durable coating, but I'd like to ask if you have some input on that?

 

I lost track but at least 6. I'm still going to do the rocker panels.

 

Usually you need to remove things to replace them.
If the common rust targets like frame, floorboards, rocker panels, brake and fuel lines don't rust they won't need to be removed any time soon.

Warming the part up with a heat gun will soften the Cosmoline and it can then be wiped away if needed.

 

I don't understand why so many say its difficult to remove.....yes if you use soap and water. Thats exactly what you don't want removing it. You take a rag and dip it in paint thinner, or mineral spirits, you can easily wipe the cosmoline away from anything needed to service. Gotta ask yourself if you drive on wet roads that are coated with gasoline, or paint thinner during the year. We have lots of water on the roads here during various times of year.

 

Cosmoline is hands down better than Lanolin (Fluid Film). I have used Amsoil MP heavy Duty and it works great. Only downside is it comes in spray can only, but then go on Amazon and get a kit where you can get the hose with 360 degree nozzle. Two coats are needed with at least a 2 hour dry time between then each fall just do a touch up.

 

I think woolwax is lanolin base also. Its just a shade better than FF. You do 2 coats of cosmoline rp-342 an hr. apart, it ain't coming off like that other stuff.

 

for those saying ff, ww, SS, all can wash off with road spray, have never tried washing off hand lotion with no soap, or rubbing of hands together. even if you hit it with a power washer spray, it may look like it is gone but, the residue is still there. you are not going to completely remove a heavily applied lanolin product, with just water spray. Ski

 

Reapplication isn’t that big a deal anyway. It’s a con to the product as far as additional cost and, for diy’ers, time, but also means keeping a routine to inspect and reapply rather than spray and forget about it. Personally unless the entire vehicle is emulsified in coating, none are impenetrable anyway.

I also like products I can wipe a lot easier in maintenance areas even if they leave a residue, which is why I only apply wax based coats to certain areas of frame or like the axle housing, etc.

 

All i can attest to is rp-342 is thinned down so much it will seep into everything, reason for needing two coats. Actually think it goes on thinner than fluid flim.

 

Helpful hints:

Spray the 360 nozzle in an empty clear plastic soda bottle to see what kind of coverage you get.

I spray some WD40 through the hose to clear out the remaining product when I'm done.