Undercarriage Corrosion Protection Services - Winchester, VA Area

So asphalt-based, which others are calling "Zeibart", is rubberized?

 

^They all end up with the consistency of roofing tar.

 

I will stay away then, thanks.

 

I just talked to these folks. Their undercoating service is $600 using Noxudol, and the rustproofing using cavity wax (similar to fluid film) is another $175. Yearly inspection/touchups are $80, and they offer a 10 year warranty. Definitely pricey, but perhaps worth it?

ETA: I've heard of some Toyota dealerships actually offering this same service so I assume it's a goof choice, price aside.

 

The $600 Noxudol undercoating is bitumen (i.e. like asphalt). Stay away from it. The Noxudol cavity wax if applied yearly to the frame would be good, but from the webpage they normally apply it inside body panels only. You can also go there and get Woolwax applied yearly.

 

Why, from everything I've read it's not like the older rubberized/tar coating everyone says to stay away from. Plus, if it were that bad why would it be offered by Toyota dealerships on new vehicles?

 

Wish I knew. It's the only place around that does anything like this that I'm aware of-Line-x aside. I've seen the work and that's it. I was looking at FJ Cruisers last year and that's when I got the quote. But I never pulled the trigger on the vehicle purchase.

 

The web page straight up says it's bitumen. Dealerships offer it because they make more profit from it (and things like extended warranties) than on the vehicle itself, prior to 2020 when prices were normal. There's a 10 year warranty meaning you won't notice the frame rotting from the inside for 10 years. After the warranty is up, the truck will be ready for the salvage yard.

 

I don't see how applying a protective coating to clean metal will cause it to rust from the inside out. That makes zero sense. I do understand how the older rubberized coatings that don't adhere well can trap moisture underneath, certainly causing problems. But this product is supposedly much better than those older ones.

 

^Because water still gets in despite their best efforts. I had this stuff applied at the dealer on my previous Tacoma, but didn't go back for yearly touch-ups. After 3 years, the coating was cracking on the frame near the front cab mount, and there was a lot of rust underneath the coating. A normal customer going back for yearly touch-ups wouldn't notice this until the frame rots out completely.

And Noxudol has been around at least 15 years, since Toyota's 1st gen Tacoma frame rust campaign.

 

Does the coating still feel soft, or has it hardened at all? Any signs of it cracking, chipping, flaking off?

 

So I have spent the better part of the day scouring the interwebz, and I have yet to find any negative feedback related to the use of Noxudol coating. It seems that perhaps coatings in general get a bad rep due to the poor performance of past rubbery/tar like coatings that tend to trap moisture. I'm still weighing my options, but am curious if anybody knows of any adverse affects from the use of this particular product, especially when applied properly, by professionals, on an almost brand new vehicle.

 

I don't get into all those crazy rust inhibitor names, i went with a cosmoline coating after seeing what mercedes, and bmw use on their cars before dealers get them. It appears also when my brother bought his new 77 trans am, it was done with cosmoline. That car to this day hasn't a speck of rust anywhere.

 

Krown. /endthread

 

You are correct that the stuff many of these places like the one I posted for you earlier that use a black undercoating that is like a tar is a very good product that does not become like the rubberized stuff. It is oil based and should remain tar like for many years. They will spray rustproofing inside the boxed in areas of the frame so it WILL NOT rust from the inside out. It is best to only do it on a new vehicle or one that comes from down South and is rust free and like new underneath. I personally like Cosmoline best, but went with Ziebart because I had no time to do it myself and have never heard one problem with Ziebart's process.

 

Idk about that tar stuff, but i saw what plastic roof cement ended up like when pasted on a frame. It became hard and had cracks throughout after a few years letting water creep in.

 

I’ve decided to go with woolwax, it just seems like the safer solution. Thanks for the help everyone.

 

Just make sure its reapplied every year.

 

Or what?

 

The truck will rust away in one day.