ujoint replacement question

Tacoma brothers, I am going to replace my carrier bearing (ordered last night from Drivetrain America) and I got to thinking since I will heve the driveshaft out it will be a good time to replace ujoints. Anybody have spicer part numbers for the 2007 Tacoma 4x4 DCLB? I noticed a few months ago when trying to grease my ujoints that I could not get all grease zirks to take grease. I suspect the previous owner never greased them and the grease had hardened in the zirk and would not allow any new grease in. Truck is sitting at about 155,000 miles now. Many thanks

 

For the rear I believe it is Dana

$33 Spicer 5-1330-1X U-Joint Kit

Spicer 5-1330-1X

A head ups on the CB too, make sure you dont miss the washer / shim thing when taking the old CB out. Mine was stuck to the old bearing and I didnt even notice until the driveshaft was back in the truck

 

Something you could try. I deal with clogged grease zerks on a regular basis. Find the right size socket, probably 7mm. Unscrew the zerk, dig the hardened stuff out with a 90 degree bent cotter pin. If it’s super hard a drill bit works good. Wd40 helps soften it. Dig out as much as you can being careful to not damage the hole threads too much. Fill the hole with wd40, screw the zerk back in. Try pumping grease in.

Or you could try this.

$50 Lincoln 5805 Hardened/Clogged Grease Impact Fitting Cleaner, Includes Steel Drive Cylinder, Piston, Safety Shield, High-Pressure Hose, Spare Drive Seals, Coupler, Accepts Light Oils and Solvents

https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubr...021pAnSA==&sprefix=Grease+zerk,aps,282&sr=8-7

I fill it with wd40 and light oil. Fill it about half full, push the rod in, flip it up so the fitting is up, push the rod in slowly with a rag over the fitting to get as much air out as possible. Then stick it on & smack it with a hammer. Use safety glasses.

 

IIRC, the

$33 5-1330-1X U-Joint Kit

5-1330-1X (need 3) are for the rear shaft. The front shaft takes a pair of 5-1331-1X.

 

This will be my first time dealing with a CB. Can u explain more about the washer and shim? I have no idea about that

 

Thanks for the part numbers but am having a hard time locating 5-1331-1x. Can you confirm that part number?

 

RockAuto has a clear application description.

I fouled up the number. Should be

$29 5-1310-1X U-Joint Kit 1310/SPL22 Series (OSR)

5-1310-1X for front driveshaft, greaseable.

 

these work pretty good and then you get a tool out of for the future use. I’ve used several times and it makes clearing the fittings a breeze

https://locknlube.com/products/grease-buster-shop-size

 

Looks like Toyota calls it a washer. Its gets stuck to the grease on the CB. It looked more like a hardened shim to me though

Ive seen those. Seems like a good idea as a last resort, but all the dirt and shit must get forced into the joint..? Rather than just replacing the zerk.

 

Problem is if a zerk fitting isn't accepting grease because it's "clogged", the zerk itself is not the issue. 99% of the time it's the dried up grease/grime downstream of the fitting. So there's no way to get that hold gunk out other than forcing it through the needle bearings. Still better than leaving it there clogged though. Purging old grease with new grease is key to extend the life.

 

It’s not necessarily dirt. It’s dried grease acting like a plug. Wd40 works but something stronger like pb blaster, liquid wrench, rust buster will soften it easier. Use your bent cotter pin or drill bit to shovel it out. Another squirt of stuff, let it sit, stick the straw in the hole and blast the crap outta it. That’ll get most of it out. You could even replace the zerk, with a good one. The cheap ones don’t couple tight to the grease gun connector.

Lincoln makes decent replacement zerks. Not harbor freight or one you found in the miscellaneous bucket of bolts.

 

That makes sense

 

Be aware that there are different thickness snap rings. Make sure you get a kit otherwise you may have hell installing those u joints.

 

if the bearings / joints / shafts have never been out before

BE CERTAIN TO MARK EACH COMPONENT BEFORE u TAKE IT APART

SO THAT IT ALL GOES BACK IN BALANCE !!

of course U have to mark it all correctly so its not a nut scratching grab azz moment when U reassemble

 

The genuine Spicer ones I got had several different sets as far as I can recall. Different colors for different thicknesses, so should be all set

 

I am concerned on getting the correct Spicer u joints. Rock auto doesn't show the part numbers

$33 5-1330-1x U-Joint Kit

5-1330-1x listed as available for my year model. I wanna be sure I am getting the correct ones for the 2007 model

 

You want the ones with OSRs

$33 5-1330-1X U-Joint Kit

5-1330-1X, if you want the SPL series get the

$28 5-1330X U-Joint Kit 1330/SPL25 Series (OSR)

5-1330X. These are for the rear.

Front is

$27 5-1310X U-Joint Kit 1310/SPL22 Series (OSR)

5-1310X for the SPL and

$29 5-1310-1X U-Joint Kit 1310/SPL22 Series (OSR)

5-1310-1X for the OSR with zerk in caps.

 

I just replaced my rear 3 u joints and carrier bearing on my 12 4.0 4x4 using

$26 Spicer 5-213x U-Joint Kit 1330 Series (OSR)

Spicer 5-213x u joints. Worked great. Add a little additional grease into the u joint caps to help keep the needles in place and use a c-clamp or a vice as much as you can when pressing together. If you cant get the snap ring seated, you've got a needle that's fallen over.

 

oh yeah, the

$26 5-213X U-Joint Kit 1330 Series (OSR)

5-213X come with the zerk on the cross instead of the cap. Makes greasing a little tougher but keeps them from getting whacked when going offroad.

 

Can you explain the difference in the OSR and the SPL? I don't know what those abbreviations mean. Many thanks for the pics.