U-Joint Replacement

Why in the hell do the prerunners not have zerk fittings? Mine has almost 65K on it and has always had a vibe in the mid-50's. How do you know when it is going out?

 

This is exactly what mine is doing right now...have to chexk for play in the driveline when I get off duty.

 

"Has anyone had their U-Joints replaced and how much was the total repair bill? I'm currently looking at replacing both U-joints and the carrier bearing. Also, I'm at 79,000 miles and consider myself to be an average driver. I feel like these wore out prematurely but, I'll admit I'm not that good with these things so I could be wrong. Any advice, comments, experiences, stories, jokes or otherwise will be greatly appreciated. " I have 2007 Access Cab/2.7 L, 85k miles - I initially thought the vibration was the needle bearing (see that thread), but my vibration/noises appeared to remain under acceleration in both 2WD and 4WD. At times, the vibration radiated to the driver's side door. It went away under deceleration. It was getting progressively worse. I thought I'd answer the question from a simpleton view - I paid $586 at the dealer, Lynch Toyota in Manchester, CT. I'm not mechanically inclined, so it wasn't feasible for me to do the repair. The difference was immediately noticeable - one u-joint was worn/slipping, the other two were replaced since they had the drive shaft(s)? down >> dealer words. In any case, I'm very satisfied - no noise, no vibration, no worries. The breakdown: 3.5 hrs labor = $346, parts (3) 04371-0K080 @ $80 each = $240. I hope that helps.

 

For comparison purposes, the cheapest I've been able to find OEM u-joints is $40 each through Camelback Toyota. Tools required for install is either a press or a heavy shop vice and basic tools (jack stands, floor jack, socket set, needle nose pliers, a rubber mallet and a grease gun).

 

I had all 3 of the ujoints replaced in my 06 access cab replaced at 90000 miles. Spent about 200. The ujoint that went on mine was the one in the middle next to the carrier bearing. It was squealing like all get out it reverse.

 

Problem solved!!!! I had one bad cap on the u joint at the rear diff. The bearings were turned into rusted dust. I can't believe I've been living with this issue for so long over a $20 part. Pulling the driveshaft was a breeze. Replacing the u joint was a little bit of a chore (I did all three), but all in all not too bad. Well worth doing it myself and saving $580 at the dealership.

 

Not to hi-jack someone elses thread but which ones am I needing? one says a three joint shaft and another has a two joint shaft? I know to get the one with the zerks Thanks

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/2009-Toyota-Tacoma-4WD/U-Joint/_/N-jtbh6Z9enhu

Or is there a better one than another one that you would purchase for your vehicle?

 

The best way to tell is look under your truck and see if it has two or three u joints. I bought MOOG. Not sure if they are good or not, but they worked. I wanted spicer but none of the local stores stocked a spicer.

 

Look under your vehicle but I'm pretty sure you have 3 joints. I purchased my u-joints from Rock Auto. I bought Moog but would not buy them again. Their tolerances were way out. I bought 3 joints but only 2 actually fit and one of them still had to be shaved a bit. The Moog ones were $10/ea, OEM is Spicer and they'll run you $50/ea at Camelback Toyota.

 

same here
i went with federal joints for $6 a piece
they worked great....
and a $25 center support bearing from driveshaft parts
and after 1000k no complaints
oh and i used the barbarian way 17mm deep socket and a bfh

 

Does it matter if the replacement U-joints have the grease fitting between two caps, instead of in the end of one of the caps like the OEM ones?

 

Was going to order from Rockauto but my squeaking in get more frequent so probably head the autozone, oreillys or advance auto sometime today. Gonna attempt to change them myself after watching several YouTube videos. Another question I have is do I grease them after installing them or they greased already?

 

nope

yes
and as soon as you get the new u joints and are ready for install take all caps off and pack them with some grease to hold the needles in

 

Got part numbers for those?

Rock Auto lists:
FEDERATED Part # 354
$5.92

MOOG/PRECISION Part # 354 Premium One of our most popular parts
$9.57

MOOG/PRECISION Part # 254 Non-Greasable Super Strength
$13.76

MOOG/PRECISION Part # 270 Greasable Super Strength
$14.81

Federal Mogul site lists:
Universal Joint - Premium: Moog 354
Universal Joint - Greasable Super Strength: Moog 270
Universal Joint - Non-Greasable Super Strength: Moog 254

 

FYI, that greasable super strength MOOG u-joint requires a different sort of grease fitting than the standard nipple. I ordered those first and sent them back because I didn't want to have to buy the new head for my grease gun or deal with adapters. I returned them and went with the 'premium' greasable, they have a standard grease fitting in the middle of the cross.

 

THIS IS WHAT I USED
I REMOVED THE ONE MOOG THAT WAS INSTALLED....IT WAS TOO TIGHT / STIFF
PUT A BUNCH OF MILES ON AND SO FAR SO GOOD....

 

thanks! Any gripes with the Carrier Support bearing rock auto has?

 

Got mine from driveshaft parts
No exp. With rock autos

 

i changed them myself on my old 96.

changed all 3, for 8 a piece, new grease gun and grease 15.

took about 2 hours with a table vise. never had any problems again till the truck was totaled... then it didnt matter.

speaking of which, this reminds me to grease my new truck too. thanks for the food for thought

 

Which one do I need??


Really, don't shop here..