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Tundra Steering Rack into a Tacoma

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by hualampeter, Sep 8, 2018.

  1. Sep 8, 2018 at 8:40 AM
    #1
    hualampeter

    hualampeter [OP] Well-Known Member

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  2. Sep 8, 2018 at 9:33 AM
    #2
    Subway4X4

    Subway4X4 Shameless Copy Cat

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  3. Sep 8, 2018 at 10:05 AM
    #3
    Arcticelf

    Arcticelf Well-Known Member

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  4. Sep 8, 2018 at 10:29 AM
    #4
    Bebop

    Bebop Old fashion cowboy

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    6inch lift sitting on bilstein coilovers. Lexus is300 studs in front to keep stock wheels, general grabber red letters, nfab front bumper.
    What are the benefits of this
     
  5. Sep 8, 2018 at 10:43 AM
    #5
    Sterling_vH111

    Sterling_vH111 Go do something real instead.

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    Its a stronger steering rack, which is mainly needed with larger heavy tires, hard offroading, and esecially long travel trucks. I plan on it whenever my stock one goes out.
     
  6. Sep 8, 2018 at 11:23 AM
    #6
    Arcticelf

    Arcticelf Well-Known Member

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    Pretty much what @Sterling_vH111 said. Bigger piston, bigger gears, built for a half ton truck.

    It's stronger than your tackma tie rods, and probably than the spindles.
     
    12TRDTacoma and hualampeter[OP] like this.
  7. Sep 8, 2018 at 1:52 PM
    #7
    Freeheelbillie

    Freeheelbillie Well-Known Member

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    What kind of fab is required?
     
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  8. Sep 8, 2018 at 2:05 PM
    #8
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    Now here is an amazing functional mod which would be incredible to have for better longevity into the Taco.

    I would love to know myself what type of fab is required to make this fit, if and when mine gives up the ghost I will replace it with a Tundra one if the mod is fairly straight forward to do.
     
    hualampeter[OP] likes this.
  9. Sep 8, 2018 at 3:07 PM
    #9
    Arcticelf

    Arcticelf Well-Known Member

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    You have to notch the frame where the rack passes through. Then weld in plates.

    You have to grind the mounting bungs out of the frame and move them outboard 1/2" center to center. Then weld them back in.

    Changing the rack is otherwise the same, remove and replace the lines, reconnect the steering shaft, and bleed the power steering.

    Then go get an alignment.

    In addition to the rack from solo you need:
    -mounting bolts (I used 1/2" grade 8),
    -boots (tundra boots from Rock Auto)
    -boot clamps (hose clamps)
    -steel to plate up the notches
    -grinder, cutting wheel, welding tools.
     
  10. Sep 8, 2018 at 3:13 PM
    #10
    Arcticelf

    Arcticelf Well-Known Member

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    I'd recommend also doing solo tie rods with hiem joints. You can get them for mid travel (stock geometry) or any size if LT. It's a much stronger system than the OE, and it makes the rack stronger than the frame.

    Check out my Instagram and build thread for more pictures of what's involved.
     
  11. Feb 6, 2024 at 10:48 AM
    #11
    eglouch

    eglouch Member

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    Do you have full contact with your stock steering stops with the new rack? I just swapped in a Toyo-steering rack upgrade and I just got my alignment dialed in and I have and inch of space at full lock from my steering stops to my LCA.
     
  12. Feb 7, 2024 at 1:17 PM
    #12
    Arcticelf

    Arcticelf Well-Known Member

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    Yes, I have full range from lock and to lock. Which upgraded rack did you use?
     
  13. Feb 8, 2024 at 10:14 AM
    #13
    eglouch

    eglouch Member

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    I got a rack from Toyo-steering
    It was a little cheaper than the alternatives and it installed fine but I didn’t realize that you loose some steering angle. I got the kit with the tundra tie rods and I’m wondering if switching to a hiem would allow the geometry to change.
     

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