Tundra Brake Swap and PowerStop z23 review

Hey First-Genians,

I just finished my tundra swap and I wanted to give a few tips and tricks for those of you who would like to attempt this mod with the z23 power stop kit.

I feel like the procedure for changing rotors, pads, and calipers are well documented and anyone can easily look up this information so I will omit the basic procedure. That being said I would like to add something that I have not seen in any other write up about this mod.

13WL calipers for a 2005 tundra are designed to be mated with a steel line, not the flex line that first gen tacomas have. With this, you will see that the female bore that you thread your banjo bolt into will not thread in all the way. This is due to a pressed in feral inside the threaded bore. Now from what I've seen most people either buy a kit (wheelers) which I assume includes a shorter banjo bolt or some other solution to over come this feral. Another solution I found people using was to shorten the banjo bolt, then drill the banjo bolt with a 3/8 drill to create a a cavity that goes around the feral. After further inspection and a coffee break. We realized the feral was just pressed into the caliper and could be removed. So we very carefully got a screw with a course thread pitch and very slowly threaded the screw into the feral. After about 3 threads we pulled it out with relative ease. After that it was as simple bolt on deal. Trimmed the dust shield just a bit, mounted the rotors, installed the calipers/pads, and started my bleed process. I can say that at first I did have a bit of an issue with pedal "firmness" but after some extra bleeding I got the pedal to firm up to where I feel comfortable driving it. I will do another bleed tomorrow to get anything that might be left.

Set up that pertains to the brakes
Method 16x8 mesh wheels
Z23 Power Stop brake kit from summit for a 2005 tundra
factory hub/ factory wheel studs/ factory spindle
marlin crawler extended front brake lines
new copper crush washers
factory banjo
factory caliper mounting bolts

PowerStop Z-23 Review
So after reading a lot of reviews I decided on this kit from summit. I had my doubts but figured for the price it was worth a shot. After opening the box the rotors and pads looked great. After opening the caliper boxes I instantly noticed damage to the powder coat. I sent them back with no issues because summit is awesome with that kind of issue. They immediately sent me another set out and after opening the box I noticed basically the same issue but it was less and I made the choice to run um. After following the break in procedure they provide and after some extra brake bleeding this kit kicks ass! I've never had my truck stop like it does now. I can lock um up no problem. Although it is day one, I can say first impressions is great. I'm so happy with the performance of these brakes. I mainly got them with the hopes of a small amount of improved breaking but mainly to help with heat when I'm wheeling and going up and down hills for camping n such. It has immensely increased stopping power. Although my pedal does feel a bit softer than before. I assume that the 13WL runs a large piston diameter so I can understand a bit of a softer pedal. Hopefully I can stiffen it up after tomorrow.

So thats my 2 cents. Hopefully this can help someone.

Before and after pics

 

Nice man thanks for the review. I’m loookinh to do the tundra upgrade here soon.

Can you link the kit you bought

 

I went a different route with the brake lines. I chose to retain the original Tundra flared hardline by using the LCE conversion kit, and eliminating the soft line and banjo bolt. I'm very happy with it.

https://www.lceperformance.com/Stainless-Brake-Line-Kit-Tacom-To-Tundra-Upgrade-p/1055114.htm

 

Thank you
Sure man here ya go.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/.../1995/make/cadillac/model/deville?prefilter=1

 

Yeah that’s probably what I would say is the best way to do it. Nice lookn kit, hey did your pedal feel change at all?

 

No difference whatsoever. If anything it’s firmer. I want to attribute that to the brake lines I used.

 

Hmm that’s interesting, i mean my truck stops bitchen I just would like a firmer pedal. Maybe I’ll get some lines made

 

I do believe it’s firmer than usual.

If you really want to get complicated, you can swap in a bigger master cylinder. But I believe the results show that it makes not much of a difference.

@Blackdawg can speak on the topic better than I’m capable of.

 

Thank you for this- I just got my kit in the mail (Amazon Callahan kit that looks just like the Summit option I guess) but already have extended Goodridge SS lines and was stressing on how to retain them vs. having to buy something like the LCE kit.

Doing research to do this mod I read somewhere about a brake bleed located at the top of the rear line above the rear axle- I haven't checked on my rig yet but if its there and a lot of other people didn't know this IMO it could explain why so many people seem to have different pedal feel results from this mod.

 

No problem, I had done a lot of reading about the swap and either i missed it or no one had address about that feral or the tundras using hard lines to mate with the caliper. In a perfect world I would have bought the LCE kit but because of my ignorance I jumped into this without all the facts. Removing the feral seems like the best way to modify the setup. Drilling into the bolt seems like it could be error prone and for some cause a big head ache. I also noticed a few posts about leaking banjo bolt. It seems like just jamming the banjo bolt in there with the feral is probably why they are leaking, that or they didn't replace the crush washers and its leaking from there.

I just wanted to make a post to let people know ahead of time so when they are considering this swap they can either buy the LCE kit, get some off a donor truck, or use my method. As mentioned before theres always the drill the bolt method but to me that didn't seem like the route I wanted to go.

(edit). Actually I bled all 4 corners but didnt do the portioning valve. Maybe theres the key

I bet I'll get a better pedal. But theres always the master to consider but from threads I've read its not worth it.

 

On that note where do I get new copper washers? I imagine just any ole AutoZone and specify for the taco?

 

I went to this place called king bolt in covina, CA and just took the banjo with me. autozone will not have that information. I asked...i believe its a m10 banjo but I would look it up to be sure.

 

I scored Tundra calipers and rotors on craigslist the part # was off older Tundra.
Fit without any mods. New brake line, rear drums and shoes. Bleed wheels and PV
and good to go.

 

Shut the front door, I didn't even see that u are socal. Covina isn't that close but good to know I need to dig a bit vs going to a franchise.

 

Those look like the 199mm but still an upgrade and digging the paint and decals. In fact I went on eBay to look for TRD decals for my kit ala speedy's garage.

 

Yes ebay decals (Paint-decals -clear)

 

maybe those are the 13WGs? did you see that feral inside?

 

born and raised

meh a copper crush is a copper crush...if u can find it at homedepot,lowes, w/e... then grab it. just look at thickness and diameters.