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Truck wont start. Only clicking noise

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by MS98, Jan 13, 2015.

  1. Jan 13, 2015 at 2:27 PM
    #1
    MS98

    MS98 [OP] New Member

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    I got out of school today and my truck wouldn't crank. It was like the battery was dead. I got my friend to jump me off and after it charged a few minutes it cranked. I went to autozone and they said the battery was charged fully. Any ideas of what it could be?
     
  2. Jan 13, 2015 at 2:29 PM
    #2
    MyToyTaco

    MyToyTaco ╒╪╕

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    If autozone said your battery is good,my guess is the alternator.
     
  3. Jan 13, 2015 at 2:36 PM
    #3
    rcmslm

    rcmslm Active Member

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    Battery has a weak cell.Did they load test it or just check amps?
     
  4. Jan 13, 2015 at 2:39 PM
    #4
    snigglefritz

    snigglefritz Member

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    Maybe check the grounds. Auto zone should be able to check alternator
     
  5. Jan 13, 2015 at 2:39 PM
    #5
    savedone

    savedone Well-Known Member

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    Regardless of what Autozone it could still be the battery unless they did a stress (load) test on the battery. You can get false positives within 30 minutes to an hour after a charge when only voltage is checked. You might want to remove the connections and clean the posts and the connections and see if that could also be the cause.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2015
  6. Jan 13, 2015 at 3:09 PM
    #6
    Lester Lugnut

    Lester Lugnut Well-Known Member

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    As stated, you have to LOAD test the battery. An open-circuit-voltage test with a voltage-ohm meter is meaningless.

    If it passes a load test, the clicking is most likely the solenoid on the starter, but again, be sure to have someone who knows what they are doing LOAD test the battery first.

    Alternator can affect charging, but has nothing to do with the clicking sound.
     
  7. Jan 13, 2015 at 3:11 PM
    #7
    Drivesector

    Drivesector Well-Known Member

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    Make sure your battery terminals are clean and tight. Get volt meter and check voltage, then turn on truck if it starts and check batt voltage again. It should read higher than it did without it running, in the 13 v ballpark. If it reads higher the alt is working and I would go after the battery. Just my 2 cents
     
  8. Jan 13, 2015 at 3:20 PM
    #8
    MeefZah

    MeefZah -----------

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    2007, probably original battery, 99% that's the issue.
     
  9. Jan 13, 2015 at 3:36 PM
    #9
    sdc09taco

    sdc09taco Well-Known Member

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    had to change mine last week,the charging dash light never came on,but with a new battery all is well again...
     
  10. Jan 13, 2015 at 5:02 PM
    #10
    MS98

    MS98 [OP] New Member

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    I dont think its a weak battery because it cranked just fine a minute ago
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2015
  11. Jan 17, 2015 at 2:03 PM
    #11
    Shadetree

    Shadetree Well-Known Member

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    Zach, if the battery is healthy and fully charged and the terminal connections are all free of corrosion, then check the starter solenoid contacts/plunger. They are probably not making a good connection because they are burned or pitted. This is a very common problem on Toyotas. The battery and charging system are codependent on each other.
     
  12. Jan 17, 2015 at 5:12 PM
    #12
    2011Streaker

    2011Streaker Well-Known Member

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    Jump starting only fixes weak batteries. If jump starting worked, get a new battery.
     
  13. Jan 17, 2015 at 5:17 PM
    #13
    hogeyphenogey

    hogeyphenogey Back in a Tacoma

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    If you are on your original 2007 battery, do yourself a favor and replace it. If you have a dead battery and you charge it and you then test it, it will pass the test unless they load test it.
     
  14. Jan 17, 2015 at 5:29 PM
    #14
    Tommiet

    Tommiet Well-Known Member

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    +1
     
  15. Jan 17, 2015 at 5:46 PM
    #15
    over60

    over60 Over70 & still a "Grumpy Old Guy"

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    HEY...!! My '06 has failed me 3 times and it all came down to the "VERY SMALL" contact point with the + terminal on the battery... Look close... the freakin' clamp only has like 2 on 1 side and 1 on the other side,... 1/8" "fingers" around the battery terminal.... It is a VERY small area of contact ad loses contact easily...


    I cleaned mine yesterday for the 4th time and it did not look dirty or corroded; however, the alternator was not able to keep the battery charged up at -29 Celcius... A good cleaning of the + post and connector and charged it... and I'm good to go again..


    I'm thinking of swapping out the + terminal connector with 1 that makes more contact with the battery..
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2015
  16. Jan 17, 2015 at 5:57 PM
    #16
    beeesmitty

    beeesmitty Well-Known Member

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    Repeating above, make sure terminals are clean. I have already had to replace the battery in my 2011.
     
  17. Jan 18, 2015 at 5:28 AM
    #17
    Shadetree

    Shadetree Well-Known Member

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    If have to pull the starter, I would go ahead and replace the solenoid contacts and plunger for less that $20 at most parts stores. It is not a question of if, but when.....
     
  18. Jan 18, 2015 at 5:34 AM
    #18
    Shadetree

    Shadetree Well-Known Member

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    x2. Terminal corrosion (both hot and ground) can cause major voltage drops at high currents.

    Do you recall the manufacturer of the OEM battery that you replaced in you 2011?
     
  19. Jan 18, 2015 at 5:43 AM
    #19
    TugBoatTrash

    TugBoatTrash Face first!! Hammer down!!!

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    Do dents and scratches count?
    You have a weak battery or you left a light on while in school.
     
  20. Jan 18, 2015 at 5:54 AM
    #20
    Gearheadesw

    Gearheadesw must modify

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    If the battery lights off the engine at all, spinning it fast, well, then it's not the battery, it's got the juice in there it's just not getting to the relay or starter some how. Check all connections between battery and starter, all of them clean and dielectric grease them upon install.
     

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