Truck cranks but will not start [Solved].

Hello,
2006 4.0 130k miles Taco wouldn't start after it was parked for the weekend. I didn't hear the fuel pump kick on whe n starting so I dropped the tank and replaced it. That still did nothing, so gave it a shot of starting fluid, and still nothing. I replaced the crank sensor and when I was installing back the alternative I noticed 2 of my wire harness were chewed( With a critter nest) the Cam sensor and the variable timing solenoid. I spliced in new wires and again it will not start! Fuses are good but the EFI and STA will not light up with a test light. I pulled one coil and it has no spark. I checked the wire harness and found no other issues. I do not have a reader, any suggestions?

Thank you!

 

You say you have no power on either side of the EFI fuse or EFI No2 fuse?
The STA fuse only has power with the key in the crank position, you say the truck is cranking over so this circuit should be fine.
Do you have power on Pin 1 (Black/Red of the coils and ground on Pin 4 (White/Black) with the key on?

 

Look for more rodent damage. Find out why the EFI fuse isn't getting power

 

EFI 1 10 fuse no power on both sides. I will check to see if the coil has power tomorrow, it's been a long day lol.

Thanks for the reply

 

I had the intake and air filter box removed while fixing the wires and didn't see any other damage. I checked under my truck as well, but nothing. My truck has been down for 2 weeks so this could have happened after it was already down. It's hard to say at this point

 

I'd bet your going to find more rodent damage, here's the wiring diagrams if you need them.

 

I had the air box/ intake manifold off and everything else looked fine. Would there be anything else that would cause no spark? It's also weird I don't hear my fuel pump prime. So, EFI 1 should have power when the key is on?

Thanks for the diagram

 

Toyota's don't use a key-on prime, the pump only runs during cranking and after the engine starts.

The EFI fuse (20A) should have power at all times, the EFI No2 fuse (10A) should have power with the key on.
I'd want to check power and ground at the coils as well.
Also does your check engine light come on with the key on?

 

The 20a EFI fuse has power all the time. The EFI No2 does not have power with the key on.

When im checking the coils, am I'm checking the coil itself or the clip on the harness( sorry, I'm a newbie with electrical)

No check engine light but I did have the battery disconnected while replacing everyone on my original post.

 

The connector (wiring side), don't shove anything into the pins just touch them. If you can't reach the contacts with the test light probe use a small paperclip or Tpin just be careful to not spread the terminals.

The check engine light should be on key on engine off regardless of codes being set or not, if it doesn't come on then either the PCM is missing a power or ground or the 5V reference circuit is shorted to ground.

 

"PCM is missing a power or ground or the 5V reference circuit is shorted to ground." Oh Boy.....
Is this isolated in a certain area or could this be anywhere on the Harness?

 

You need to find out why the efi fuse doesn't have power

 

Like I said start with checking power and ground at the coils, depending on what you find there we will have direction.

Well the PCM controls the EFI relay which powers the fuse so if the PCM is offline (which it appears to be since no CEL) it's not gona turn the relay on.

 

Gotcha, I'll check all 6 coils tomorrow after work. I appreciate the help.

 

No need to check all 6, just 1 or 2 will do. They all share the same power and ground.
Power comes directly from the ignition switch and they ground on the back of the right (passenger side) cylinder head, some PCM grounds are in that spot as well.

 

I wonder if this would cause it.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/camshaft-positioning-sensor-wiring-p0348-code-displayed.782549/

I checked both of the blue wires and didn't see any different markings on them. When the truck wouldn't start the first time I swapped the wires but still no luck.

 

Yea it's hard to differentiate those wires because they both will have 5v on them with the sensor unplugged.

The 4.0 will run without the cam sensors plugged in so I don't think that's it unless it's wired incorrectly and shorting out the 5v reference circuit.

 

Will the VVT run while disconnectalso? What about the VVT and the Camshaft sensor disconnected( Wires chewed) together?

My truck would rarely have a hard time starting and would require me to hold down the key longer. That's why I thought it was the crankshaft sensor. The resistance reading was goodafter the removal 2130 but was rusted.

 

The VVT solenoids don't come into play during cranking and at idle so it should unless something is mis-wired and shorting out the 5v reference circuit.

 

The reason I ask is that I "think" this rodent situation is old. My truck sat for a year and I barely used it in 2021. From 2022 to now I've been driving it 5 days a week. 4 inches of wire were completely chewed which it hard to believe they chewed that much on a Saturday & Sunday.