Transmission fluid, which one?

So I bought my tacoma used with 188k on it, a few days later I wanted to change the transmission fluid so I dropped the pan and the fluid it was dark brown and smelt Burt, not to much on the magnets, so I pumped some of walmarts brand trans fluid in, just to act as a buffer till I got some better brand fluid. So my question is what's the best one to go with? And what do the requirements need to be?

 

I've flushed all my Toyota products with Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc; Mercon LV. Two call for WS and two for Type IV. MaxLife is compatible with both types ATF. I would change out the ATF filter, but since it appears a flush has never been done on this, relatively, high mileage vehicle, I would not yet do a flush yet. Only a drain/refill and change of filter, then another drain/refill every 30K, then a full flush after the forth drain/refill.

 

Within the past month I have done three drain/fills on my 07 Tacoma (99k), 09 Tundra (98k), and 02 Tundra (195k). So that equals NINE drain/fills, all using MaxLife full synthetic.

The old fluid in my Tacoma was still nice and red, so it really didn't change the feel of the shifts... however my 09 Tundra is sometimes used to tow a tractor, and the old fluid was pretty dark, it definately improved the shifts in it.

I'm not sure if the fluid in the 02 Tundra had ever been changed before I did it at 195k miles, but it just made a trip from AL to NM with no problems.

 

The Toyota fluid is cheap enough there's no reason NOT to use it. It's supposed to last 100k too (yeah I changed mine at 60k both times). In any event, just draining the pan is a mere fraction of the fluid in the system. I have the towing package and it has about 12 quarts in the system. You have to unhook a fluid line at the front of the truck, start it, and let the fluid pump out 3 quarts at a time. You fill the transmission 3 quarts at a time after pumping some out. Pump 3, fill 3, till you've exchanged all the fluid.

 

Thanks guys for the replys, I think I'm gonna go with Volvoline

 

Just be careful because there's two types of Maxlife ATF. The one you need will say "full synthetic" on the front of the bottle, and on the back it should list it as compatible with Toyota WS fluid.

 

Ok thanks

 

You guys make me feel like an an@l b@stard. I drain/fill and replace the trans filter every 30k.... along with transfer case and diffs.

 

lol whatever ever you gotta do to keep her running good

 

Also if you buy the quart bottles, make sure you don't get the stop leak version. There's also the blue dex/merc jug, it's the older spec dex 3 stuff. You want the Maxlife dex/merc in the red jug.

 

Ok thanks, I'll be changing it next oil change.

 

If it's shifting good I'd go ahead and do a cooler line flush, then an annual drain/fill. The filter is just a mesh screen, I'm gonna replace mine around 100k, but they don't need replacing too often. Just my $0.02.

 

Even the full synthetic type says it has "seal conditioners" in it. I didn't think it did until I read the back of the bottle again yesterday. That's fine though, a ten year old transmission likely needs it anyways.

 

Yeah when I first did it I dropped the pan and change the filter, I'll do anther filter change in about 30k, I think it's good just to do a fluid change. Not really sure if the owner before had ever change it, lol

 

All atf has stuff in it to keep the seals pliable, Maxlife doesn't contain seal swellers. I've emailed Valvoline about this specifically.

 

So a trans with 155k on it could still be changed ? Just not flushed ? I've heard so much on this it's confusing !

 

I recently bought a 2002 supercharged Tundra with 195k miles on it, and I did three drain/refills over a few days, driving about 20 miles between each one to circulate the fluid. That truck just made a trip from AL to NM with no problems.

The "flush" people here on this forum talk about using the cooler hoses is probably fine. The ones that cause problems is where it's hooked up to a machine and back flushed with chemicals.

 

Absolutely, change it. You can do a cooler line flush if you want, most people opt for drain/fills at higher mileages. The myth that a flush will kill a high mileage transmission is highly inaccurate in my opinion. My thinking is that people wait until their transmission starts shifting hard or exhibiting other problems, then flush or change the fluid in an attempt to remedy their issues and then blame the fresh fluid on the failure when their unit was destined to fail soon anyways. Also bear in mind that contaminants score valve body bores and clog solenoid screens, thus reducing shift pressure and ultimately wearing clutches, all of which compound as time goes on to cause a tranny failure. I firmly believe that valve body wear is one of the main causes of transmission failure, second to heat of course. Fresh, clean ATF is the best ATF.

I have a remote spin-on atf filter plumbed into the atf cooler lines of my Tacoma to help reduce debris in the fluid and catch clutch material to help keep the internal filter/screen and solenoid screens clean. It's probably overkill, it's said that approximately 75% of transmissions lifetime contaminants occur during break in. A clean transmission is a happy transmission.

 

I'd go ahead and change fluid and filter, if you feel like it needs to be flushed go for it, I haven't flushed mine but if the second time looks really bad then a flush might be a good idea.

 

I bought my 09 Tundra back in 2011, and I kept putting off changing the fluid because I thought it was a big deal. I didn't realize how easy it was until I bought my Tacoma and joined this forum. Both trucks have the same transmission and I've pretty much got the procedure down pat. I use a Sherwin Williams bucket and refill with exactly 104oz of fluid.

The '02 is really easy since it has a dipstick tube and takes exactly 4 quarts (4spd auto). My only warning with the Toyota transmissions is that the drain plug is not very beefy at all, so be careful and don't over tighten it, I'm sure it'll strip easily.