Toyota mechanic pre 1990(22r specifically)

What’s going on everyone, i am searching for a toyota mechanic that will work on the 22r carb’d engine. All the local shops say they wont touch carbs, does anyone know of any reputable shops to take my truck to? Truck is a 1986 pickup with the 22r(original carb may be the issue). Thanks for your time!

 

I don't have any suggestions, just admiring your truck. I see you are in CA. Do you have to keep it stock to pass emissions? What is it doing that makes you think it is the carb?

I have a '77 Celica with the 20R (pretty much the same motor), and I put a Weber on it and eliminated all the emissions crap. But I don't live in CA - I think even a '77 is required to have all original stuff there.

 

Per the overlords of CA gov, I’m supposed to keep it stock to pass smog BUT it’s currently catless with a bunch of LCE parts. I have a smog guy so I don’t sweat the emissions stuff.Ive been on the fence on a Weber setup, found a new one locally for $250(just the carb) but I’m unsure on what else is required to run the Weber besides a pressure regulator. The intake side of things is mostly stock(always chasing vacuum leaks) so ill likely make the jump to block off all emissions and just run a Weber…..hoping to find a shop/mechanic that will take it on and get it running correct so i can focus on other projects.

 

Yeah, I started this project with the stock Aisin carb. It actually started up first crank (which shocked the crap out of me), but it ran really rich and I could never get it to lean out. It had 20 feet of vacuum lines running all over the place, must have checked those diagrams 20 times just to be sure I had it right. But yeah, lots of opportunity for vacuum leaks. I gave up and did the Cannon intake, block off plates, and Weber. The Weber was super simple to get running, but other than a pressure regulator, I don't recall anything else special that is needed.

 

Sounds exactly like my issue, can’t get it to lean out(smells like a race truck bc of how rich it is) no matter the adjustment, makes it stumble on idle. Ill give LCE a call tomorrow to get the right kit on order, I’ll try that before towing it to a shop.

 

I was having a similar issue with my 82. The way I got it to finally pass smog with very low numbers was to install a Weber 32/36 (CARB approved - thanks Gruesom Newsom) and use an AFR gauge to tune the idle jets and the main jets. Doing that I was able to tune to get AFR around 15ish and was passed CO and HC well. As for NOx… well that was a different story. I originally had a lce header with a remflex gasket and found that the gasket was actually impeding the airflow going to the egr! I ended reinstalling the original exhaust manifold with an oem gasket and it passed with flying colors.

These jet values might or might not work for you, but here’s what I used.

main: 140, main secondary: 145
Air primary:160, air secondary: 170
Idle primary: 50, idle secondary:45
I also readjusted the float, but I didn’t write down in my notebook what I adjusted to.


Try giving Squirrel Concepts in Long Beach, CA a call. Those guys specialize in early Yotas. They might be booked up for a while, but they’re always happy to help keep our trucks on the road!

 

Try Yotamasters

 

I'd be surprised if @Speed Freek can't fix it.

 

Maybe @Superdave1.0 can help, most shops won’t touch anything pre obd2 as you’re finding out

 

Thanks all for the info and help, I’m ordering the Weber 32/36 kit w/ block off plates from LCE. Ran the truck last night, rough idle(stock oem carb)even though it’s been rebuilt(3rd Aisin take-off carb I’ve tried, i have a spares box of 5 of them). Hoping the Weber with the deletes will free up the 22r, and rid it of the silly emissions spaghetti(always chasing air leaks). Ill reach out to Jason once i get the parts installed, he is a wizard with Toyotas. Thanks again for all the suggestions!

 

got a mechanic in SD that can diagnose my buddies 22r pickup? Battery died one day somewhere so he called a tow truck and they tried to jump start it but reversed positive and negative terminals and fried some stuff.

Havent had a chance to even look at it but hes done some attempts with no fix yet!

 

For all who may be wondering,
LCE and other manufacturers are no longer selling EGR block plates due to EPA fines. I found a few other sources to get them(yota1,22reperformance,Yotashop). The 32/36 Weber kit from LCE is great, you’ll just have to source “odds and ends” to fully remove all emissions stuff(Egr delete, charcoal canister delete, spaghetti mess of air hoses for carb deleted).LCE also sells a ”intake plug kit” for all the sensors that will be removed during the de-smog. Main goal is simplicity with gained function, and to clean up the engine bay. Photo is anticipated outcome once done.

 

This is an example of all the stock vacuum lines on a '77 20R.


This is after:

 

Found this searching through some other forums with the reverse jumpstart issue:
“There's a fusible link(wire) that goes from the positive terminal on the battery to the black 80 amp in the fuse block sitting nearby.
I'd take a hard look at that wire. It looks like regular stranded wire, but is designed to operate like a fuse. It might have one of those loose plastic sleeves protecting it. Look for heat discoloration and/or evidence of melting. Or just ohms check it.“ for a 89 w/ 22re

Could be burnt out wiring, or a fuse. Id OHMS/resistance test the wiring from the battery to the fuse box and other accessories, ensure your have continuity throughout the circuit.

Edit: most on the forums are pointing to the 80 amp, they’ve replaced it and fixed the non start issue….some unlucky ones had the stray voltage reach the alternator and fry it too.

 

Thanks, i'll let him know. Not sure how far hes gone in terms of trying to get it started but i'll send him the info!

 

I can’t help much with your problem, I’m just here to over your truck.

 

I had a 77 as my first vehicle. I had this book as I learned about working on cars and this truck in general. Couldn't find a hardcopy but here is a link to a PDF (How to keep your Toyota alive).

https://toyotachinook.wordpress.com...1/12/how-to-keep-your-toyota-pickup-alive.pdf

 

Welp i am lost for words currently, new Offenhauser intake, Weber 32/36 and full desmog. Idles perfect, but falls on its face under load(taking off from the light, no power unless i “clutch kick”). Timing is set at 0, but i do notice when I blip the throttle the timing retards about 15 degrees(likely timing chain guides or skipped a tooth)on a timing light. Talk about frustrating, but i guess that’s how it goes with old trucks. Fix, break, repeat.I may be at the point of getting in contact with Jason (@Speed Freek) because i am hitting a mental block on this troubleshooting.

 

Your timing numbers sound all wrong. Just about every distributor motor I've had is around 8 degrees BTDC at idle. I also see you have a dual diagram distributor so that means vacuum advance and retard yet you only have one vacuum hose hooked up. Is that all because of instructions for this carb kit?

I don't think you can skip a timing chain tooth without hearing alot of noise.

My buddy destroyed his 22re in a 89 pick up due to a broken guide. His poor wife just happened to be driving it at the time. She heard a lot of clatter and had lose of power. She tried to get it off the road and into a parking lot but it died.

I just saw pictures of the damage and it was incredible. The hole engine was destroyed. The plastic guide broke and everything under the cover was chewed up. #1 cylinder broke a valve head which beat the shit out that cylinder. That valve head made its way through the intake into #4. It was so unbelievable it could do that. The valves in #4 didn't break but that cylinder also got beat to shit. The camshaft broke too. All thus happened in about 10 seconds.

You want to look at your main crank pulley. I'm not sure if you have it but a lot of them are 2 pieces. The outer piece is bonded to the hub with a rubber material. I guess it makes it a harmonic balancer. The rubber gets hard and cracks. My 3vz would shift back and forth giving me confusing timing numbers until I figured it out. They can finally separate.

 

Thanks for that write up! I set timing at 0 per Webers carb guidance. I also just received a new harmonic balancer bc my OG one is original and likely delaminating internally. One hose on the dist per the Weber “setup instructions” and the other is capped. Thank you for confirming my inclination on the pulley separation, i was on the fence and figured a new one wouldn’t hurt.