Toyota (Denso) pre lubed o-ring on oil filter

I've been using these filters, and noticed the box states that you apply a thin film of oil to the o-ring. I can't remember if I did that last time, wat is the genreal consensus, is the pre lubed grease enough or should I pull it off and put oil on it? Thought maybe the instructions on the box were generic and no extra oil is needed on the o-ring.
Thanks.

 

What I do is not clean the surface from the old filter removal and just use that as lube.

 

I always lube the o-ring and the threads with motor oil. Been doing it for 55 years with no issues.

 

If your filter comes off when you want to change it and it doesn't come loose or leak in between oil changes your doing just fine.

 

I'm sure someone will say I'm doing it wrong. I touch the old and new orings together.

I have seen some new filters with what looks like a shower cap and the oring prelubed.

 

the idea is that you lube up your o-ring, so next time you take off your oil filter, the o ring wont stick to the engine.

i never put oil on mine. i just check to make sure the o-ring is not stuck to the engine and thats it.

 

Well, I have been changing oil for over 40 years and always put oil on the gasket but I thought pre lubed meant it didn't need additional oil. And it probably does mean just that, but since I like to follow the manufacturers directions (it's printed on the filter also), I just pulled it back off and oiled the o-ring. I'll sleep better.
I did notice it tightened more smoothly with the extra oil. I'll email Denso product support and clarify, will post the reply (if they do reply).
Thanks for the replies.

 

As long as I can remember, the OEM filters I use have come with clear plastic heat shrunk over the gasket, and the gasket appears to have silicon lube on it.

I still dip my finger in some used oil from the old filter and run it over the gasket before installing. Never had an issue removing a filter (but I only hand tighten).

 

Same here, hand tighten 3/4 turn. And I'm extremely careful to mark my filter in quarters (1,2,3,4) and note exactly where the gasket just contacts the base, then exactly 3/4 turn from there. Sometimes the last bit feels very tight but I NEVER use a wrench to install an oil filter.

 

Since I’ve been using the yzzd3 filters the last 6 years, never had an issue just rocking the filter with the grease it comes with.

maybe that’s just to keep the rubber from drying out idk. Either way, it works fine.

 

Ditto.

I always run a clean cloth over the filter mounting surface before installing the new one though, to wipe off any dust or debris, and also as a tactile check that the old filter's gasket is not still stuck on. (not really as needed on the 1GRFE mount, but a good muscle memory to have on other cars where you might be half-blindly installing an oil filter)

The lubricant on the o-ring serves 2 purposes: to make it not stick so that removal is easier, but also to make it rotate as necessary during tightening so that it does not bind up in any one spot and compromise the seal.

 

Something I’ll see printed on a filter, something like tighten until the gasket contacts, then 3/4 - 1 1/4 turn. But if I follow those instructions, when it’s time to do the next oil change, the filter will be barely more than finger tight. So instead I’ll hand tighten good as I can without popping a blood vessel. Then The next oil change, it’ll still be very tight.

 

I've been changing oil for nearly 60 years. When I started working in a service station at age 15, most filters had a flat rubber gasket instead of an o-ring. They were always dry, and we gave 'em a thin coat of clean oil (also cleaned the mating surface on the engine). With our Tacoma, I just wipe off the mating surface. The filters don't need anything because the o-ring is pre-greased. If it makes you feel better, wipe a bit of clean oil on it. It won't hurt a thing.

 

For some reason, this reminds of when I was younger, working as a painter. We were prepping the walls. I told the boss we’re out of spackle. Just to make a point that spackle was unnecessary, he went to take a dump, came back with a scoop of brown stuff on his finger, smeared it in the holes, smoothed it out with a puddy knife and painted over it.

 

The only issue I have ever seen with a dry o-ring is it could have a higher friction in one point and bunch up causing a leak.

 

Yes, the only is for both getting the filter “tight”. And helping it come off.
Applying oil helps the o-ring “slide” on the filter mating surface.

Most of the time, I dip my finger in to a quart of new oil and use new oil on the o-ring.
Why, because it makes me “feel better”.
But……I have used the old oil. I mean, it’s already there all over the damn place….Which makes it more convenient to just use some of the “mess”.

 

I always touch tips gasket to gasket with the old filter and spin in a circle to get oil on the new one. Worked well enough for the last 20 years that I haven’t bothered to stop.

 

Yzzd3 comes greased up and ready to rock.

 

If the O-ring is greased then it's already lubed, you don't need to lube it. But you can if you want to.
I always clean the filter mating surface on the engine, to be sure the old gasket is gone and also to be sure it's smooth/not damaged and ready for a good seal.

 

Well one thing for sure is you can't over lubricate it...